KBM- Pad Priming and Supplemental Wetting Agents

WATER SPRITZING? THE NITROUS OF PAINT POLISHING?

A large portion of this article touts the benefits of pad priming. However, once a pad has become excessively packed with abrasive particles and abraded paint residue, cutting power can decrease rapidly. Not only is cutting power affected, so too are all other positive aspects associated with having a clean buffing pad. Rather than having to constantly clean the pad or exchange it for a fresh one, what is a buffing guru to do?

What if I told you that by spritzing a bit of water onto the paint, you could:

  • Thoroughly clean the pad
  • Use less compound
  • Extend the buffing cycle by 200-300%
  • Increase cutting & leveling ability by 30-50%
  • Increase pad rotation when using a random orbital machine
It sounds too good to be true, but it is true, and it works with all types of pads!

Supplemental wetting agents, or wetting agents, are liquids that are sprayed onto the paint surface during polishing to moisten the pad and paint surface. They are used in addition to buffing compounds or polishes, and can be used when polishing using any type of buffing machine.

When used correctly, a wetting agent can dramatically increase cutting power and extend the amount of time an application of buffing liquid can be used before additional liquid is needed. A wetting agent can also help to keep buffing pads clean. In fact, it can clean a pad much better than agitating it using a nylon bristled brush, or rubbing a towel against it.

Wetting agents can be used with all types of pads including foam, wool, wool blends, Surbuf? Microfinger Pads, and Meguiar?s? DA Microfiber Pads.
Although a wetting agent could be categorized as a lubricant, in this case its intended purpose is to control the bond between the abrasive grains and the buffing pad, not to increase slipperiness between the pad and paint surface. Regardless the intent, a wetting agent will serve double duty, working as an ?abrasive grain bond-controller?, and as a surface lubricant.

Purified water is probably the most popular wetting agent, but a paint maintenance spray can also be used. Although a paint maintenance spray may seem to be the natural choice for this task, it may not always be the best choice. Some maintenance sprays are designed to evaporate more rapidly than plain water, while others contain ingredients that can help to clean, beautify, or protect a paint surface. Oftentimes, these additives can form a barrier, making it more difficult for abrasives to scrub paint away. For these reasons, purified water is an ideal supplemental wetting agent because it can evaporate from the surface completely, leaving nothing behind that could affect polishing performance.

Note: Occasionally, an added bit of slipperiness can be a benefit. I have used Meguiar?s Last Touch Detail Spray (1:1 dilution) in conjunction with Surbuf pads and various Meguiar?s compounds to pick up a bit more backing plate rotation, thus improving leveling ability when using my random orbital.

Compared to lubricants that are typically used in buffing compounds and polishes, most wetting agents tend to evaporate rather quickly. Plus, since they are usually very thin in viscosity, wetting agents can fling or splatter, especially if there happens to be a lot of pad rotation. For these reasons, the lubrication supplied by a wetting agent can be very short lived.

Perhaps it is best to think of a wetting agent as being similar to a lubricant that has been designed for use during the drilling or sawing of metals. These types of lubricants are commonly used to minimize the damaging effects of friction-induced heat. They are also used to keep metal shavings from packing into the drill shank or saw teeth by flushing them away.

Although we are not necessarily trying to control the level of heat generated by polishing, we are concerned with maximizing the pad and compound?s cutting power. In order to keep cutting power at the highest level, sometimes the pad must be purged of the abrasive grains and paint residue that have become tightly packed onto the pad. If the compound is fresh and has some obvious cutting ability left, there is no need to waste it by blowing, scrubbing, or rubbing it away. A wetting agent will help to loosen and then redistribute the compound.

Note: If the pad has become laden with debris, you should consider cleaning the pad before using a wetting agent. Do not use a wetting agent at the onset of the buffing cycle because it will dilute the buffing liquid and cause it to splatter. It can also rinse away precious lubricating agents? in a hurry!

It?s pretty easy to tell when it?s time to use a wetting agent. Usually, the polish seems to ?flash? or disappear from the paint surface, and cutting ability diminishes almost completely. After cutting stops, scouring of the surface sometimes begins. When this occurs, our natural inclination is to add more polish or increase downward pressure on the machine. Adding more product can help initially, but the excess polish inevitably clumps onto the pad and then rolls off, forming spheres of compound and paint residue that can become trapped between the pad and paint surface. This can really make a mess of a freshly polished surface, especially if you?ve increased downward pressure.

A pad face that is completely covered in tightly packed compound loses its ability to squeegee away compound and abraded residue from the paint surface. Instead, the pad rides atop it. Known as gumming, this phenomenon can be very frustrating to deal with because it continue occur until the pad is cleaned or replaced, or the gumming is manually wiped away.

Fortunately, a wetting agent can also help to eliminate gumming issues. As the wetting agent loosens excess buffing compound and residue from the pad, the pad face becomes exposed once again, thus allowing its pore or fibrous structure to whisk the gummy stuff away.

After the face of the pad has been purged of excess buffing liquid, there will very likely be a lot of polish sitting atop the paint surface. It is therefore important to carefully inspect and regularly clean the edge of the pad to make sure it doesn?t become laden with an excessive amount of debris. This happens as the pad moves across the paint and its edge works as a squeegee, gathering up whatever happens to be in its way. The accumulation of spent abrasives, buffing liquid, and paint residue can clump along the pad?s edge, potentially scouring an otherwise pristinely polished surface.

When using buffing pads featuring strings or fibers, a wetting agent can help to loosen stuck-on buffing compound and paint residue. It can also find its way into and between each fiber, effectively making the fibers more pliable by breaking the friction lock they have on each other. With the newfound wiggle room created by the liquid, the fibers are able readjust positioning in relation to each other.

As the wetting agent becomes displaced via pressure, evaporation, or by absorption into the pad, the fibers are able to pack tightly against each other. This phenomenon effectively creates a pad featuring a higher density of fibrous material, if only for brief periods of time. As the pad once again scrubs material from the paint surface and becomes coated with buffing compound and paint residue, it must be cleaned again.

Although the benefits of a wetting agent can be short lived when used with these types of pads, what a difference it can make! The increase in cutting power and leveling ability can be jaw dropping; this is especially true when a rotary machine is paired with a wool buffing pad, or when a random orbital machine is outfitted with either a Meguiar?s DA Microfiber Cutting Disc, or a Surbuf Microfingers Pad.

Another huge benefit: wetting agents can help to keep pads clean. This is especially true when the pad is rotating at a high rate of speed. As the pad rotates, attached compounds, liquids, loose fibers, and debris are essentially flung from the pad. Although this can create a messy environment at times, pad debris, compound splatter, and dust can be minimized through diligent pad cleaning, and adjustments to the amount of compound being added between cleanings.
 
?WOULD YOU PREFER THIN OR THICK NOODLES WITH YOUR SAUCE??

Lets discuss the benefits and drawbacks to using thin or thick fibers. It?s a bit of a long read, so fair warning!

To begin, imagine that we are using a pad featuring long, rectangular fibers. Regardless the length, each fiber features four long sides and an end tip (the other end is attached to the pad). Since the surface area of a tip is tiny in comparison to the combined surface area of all four sides of the fiber, let?s not figure the surface area of the tips into our equation. Besides, wool pads, Surbuf Microfingers Pads, and the Meguiar?s DA Microfiber Discs all feature fibers that are positioned vertically in relation to the face of the pad, but tend to bend horizontally when in use.

If we apply buffing compound to a pad featuring just one fiber, each side of the fiber would have the potential to abrade the paint surface as the pad, twists, bends, and spins the fiber across the panel.

If we add another fiber, we would have eight sides in play. Three fibers give us twelve sides, four fibers give us sixteen sides, and so on. For this equation, we?ll hold at four fibers. Now, what would happen if all four fibers stuck together, forming one larger four-sided, single-tipped fiber?

With two sides of each four-sided fiber stuck to another fiber, only 50% of the surface area of all four fibers would be available to scrub paint away. Not only that, but the combined size of the fiber would measure double in thickness and width.

Consequently, the thicker 4-ply fiber would not be able to contour as well as a single fiber, so although we might see an increase in leveling ability, there might also be a decrease in the ability of the fibers to follow the finer nuances of a surface. In other words, if the fibers cannot physically scrub the entire paint surface because they are either too stiff or too large, and the fibers cannot force the buffing compound into or across the deeper defects in the paint (this is what buffing pads truly are designed to do), then polishing results could be disappointing.

Undoubtedly, with enough scrubbing time or applied pressure, we could eliminate the fine scratches, or polish the deeper defects without completely eliminating them, but then we run the risk of removing an unnecessary amount of paint. Why try to force a large diameter fiber to do the work of a small diameter fiber, unless we have no other option?

Of course, the buffing pads we use feature fibers that are closer to cylindrical in shape as opposed to rectangular, but the same principle applies. If the fibers stick together, they will undoubtedly offer less surface area, less pliability, and be misshapen to boot. I say misshapen because there is no way to control the shape or the quantity of fibers that stick together. A pad featuring inconsistently sized fibers is bound to wreak havoc upon an otherwise pristinely polished paint surface.

A great example showing how single or grouped fibers can affect the abilities of a buffing pad compares a knitted wool pad to a twisted wool pad. For this comparison, let?s assume all parameters of the pad are the same, with the exception of how the wool is configured before being attached to the pad.

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Close-up shot of a knitted wool pad.
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Close-up shot of a twisted wool pad
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Both types of pads feature groups (or bundles) of wool, commonly referred to as tufts. To make a tuft, imagine laying out a dozen strands of wool, side by side. If you were to grab the strands mid-length and fold them in half, you would have a tuft featuring two-dozen strands of wool. One end of the tuft would be bunched together, while the other would not.

If you then attached the bunched end of the tuft onto a fiberboard disc by stitching it into place (and repeating the procedure over and over until the disc was full), we would have the makings of a wool pad.

A knitted wool pad typically features tufts of thin wool strands that have been knitted or stitched onto a simultaneously stitched backing. If you?ve ever seen an embroidery machine work its magic, or a yarn-knitting guru turn a continuous string of yarn into a blanket or sweater, you?ll have a good idea of how knitted wool pads are created.

Each individual tuft can be placed tightly or loosely together, helping to control the characteristics of the pad. Knitted wool pads are known to have good cutting ability compared to foam pads. They tend to cut well initially, but because the individual fibers are thin and lack rigidity, they tend to pack full of compound and debris rather easily. Because of this, knitted wool pads must be cleaned often to achieve satisfactory results.

When used correctly, knitted wool pads cut well and leave a pretty nice finish. They are generally very comfortable to use, as there can be a lot of air residing between each fiber. This allows the fibers to remain flexible (or pliable) during use. In most cases, knitted wool pads do not offer the leveling ability of a twisted wool pad. The exceptional case might be one that requires leveling of a surface featuring a dramatic curve or bow. In this instance, the fibers could unintentionally be forced to contour to the panel, creating a pliable yet dense grouping of dynamically shifting wool fibers. Loads of surface area, fantastic contourability, and non-rigid fibers? the best of all worlds!

A twisted wool pad features tufts of wool that are pressed through and stitched onto a backing disc. However, before the tufts are mounted onto the backing, they are twisted or weaved together, forming a thicker strand of wool. By combining multiple tufts or by using more strands of wool per tuft, the fibers can be made as thick as desired. Thick, stiff fibers offer less total usable surface area compared to knitted wool pads, but there are some big benefits to this design.

First, it is important to mention that twisted wool pads tend to be less susceptible to having its fibers stick to each other. After all, it?s not that easy to bind large fibers together using nothing more than a concoction of abrasive particles, goopy buffing liquid, and paint residue. In this regard, a pad featuring twisted wool fibers beats a knitted wool pad, hands down. Less time spent cleaning the pad means you can spend more time buffing with the pad.

Since the fibers are thicker in girth, less individual strands can fit onto the same size pad. This means that although there is potentially less wool contacting the paint at any given time, the pressure placed upon the pad and force generated by its movement is more focused onto each twisted wool fiber than it would be on the multitude of strands used on a comparably sized knitted wool pad. Thick fibers, and lots of pressure applied to those fibers means that leveling ability is going to very high when compared to a knitted wool pad.

A lot of this discussion comparing knitted and twisted pad designs is theoretical. In the real world, overall pad performance depends so much upon the type and amount of wool being used, the length and stiffness of the fibers, and how tightly the fibers are packed onto the pad. Keep this in mind when choosing a new pad, or when analyzing the performance of a pad during use.

How about a comparison of two very distinct pads that use fibers to do their work, but are very different by design? Let?s once again compare the Meguiar?s DA Microfiber Cutting Disc to the Surbuf Microfingers Pad.

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Close-up shot of the Meguiar?s DA Microfiber Cutting Disc
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The Meguiar?s DA Microfiber Cutting Disc features tufts of microfiber strands. The face of the pad is similar in design to a knitted wool pad. The microfiber strands are not stiff like the type used on the Surbuf pad. Instead, they kink, crush, and bend very easily when pressure or force is applied to them, and respond in a manner similar to the pile of shag carpeting as it is stepped on.

image037.jpg

Close-up shot of the Surbuf R Series Microfingers Pad
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The Surbuf Microfingers Pad touts a very unique design. It uses non-tufted, individually placed fibers that are mounted vertical to the pad face. The microfingers maintain a constant length, and don?t kink or crush easily when pressure or force is applied to them. Comparatively, microfingers react to pressure in a manner similar to the bristles of a toothbrush.

Using typical machine operating speeds, and with all other parameters being equal (pad priming, machine type, buffing compound, applied pressure, backing plate rotation, paint type, panel shape, etc.), a Surbuf Microfingers pad will generally level a surface to a truer degree, while the Meguiar?s DA Microfiber Pad will typically deliver a glossier finish.

Before we confidently claim that one pad is more capable or versatile than the other, remember that by changing machine speed, altering our technique, or swapping the backing plate for a different one, we can dramatically change the performance characteristics of any pad.
 
?YAWN? IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD CONSIDER, KEVIN??

Yes! Just a little more.

There are advantages and disadvantages that go along with using supplemental wetting agents. Although they can be used with any type of machine or pad, wetting agents work best for the task of defect removal, not final polishing. Since there is almost always an increase in scouring of the paint surface when using a wetting agent (the reasons have been discussed), it is wise to anticipate having to re-polish the area with a fresh buffing pad and the same (or a finer grade) of polishing liquid.

  1. The first thing you may notice is that the wetting agent releases the buffing polish from the pores or fibers of the pad. With so much polish present, there is a potential for a lot of cutting power, assuming the pad can cut through the build-up (as opposed to riding atop it). If you?ve recently primed the pad, expect to see an incredible amount of polish upon the paint surface (probably too much). If there is too much buffing liquid present, simply wipe the excess from the surface, and continue polishing.

  2. As the buffing pad glides across the paint surface, it gathers up and moves the polish and abrasives that are lying upon the paint surface. Since the polish has by this time lost some of its lubricating ingredients or buffering agents* via evaporation, through absorption into the pad, or by friction, expect to see an increase in cutting power (sometimes, a whole lot more!)

    * Buffering agents, as they are known in the abrasives industry, are ingredients that are sometimes used to keep debris from attaching to the abrasive grains, and to keep the abrasive grains from attaching to each other. Buffering agents can also curtail the formation of oxidation, and provide lubrication while acting as a sacrificial barrier. Buffering agents are sometimes used on sanding sheets and discs to minimize abraded materials from attaching to the abrasive grains.

    Here?s a non-industry example: bakers use sifted flour to act as a buffering agent when kneading dough. The flour keeps the dough from sticking to rollers, boards, pans, and hands.

  3. Don?t be surprised to see an increase in scour marks or fine scratches to go along with all the extra cutting power. The potential lack of lubrication means that the abrasives may cut deeper and stick to the paint momentarily before becoming dislodged and continuing on their way. They may also more easily clump together.

IN CLOSING?

Advances in pads, compounds, and techniques have delivered high-end paint polishing to the masses. The beginner of today, armed with a random orbital and the latest compounds and pads, can literally rival the results achieved by the rotary wielding, paint-polishing guru of only a few years ago. I never thought I would claim such a thing, but its true. Sure, it?s not a slam-dunk, and there?s still a learning curve, but the curve is much shorter. Heck- it?s not even a curve anymore? it?s a direct line!

For polishing enthusiasts that don?t know how to use a rotary buffer or prefer to use any variation of an orbital machine, supplemental wetting agents and pad priming can make all the difference. When paired with a Meguiar?s DA Microfiber Cutting Disc or a Surbuf Microfingers Pad, a random orbital can rival the cutting and leveling results delivered by a rotary buffer and a wool pad. This is not always the case, and the process is not necessarily faster, but the potential certainly exists.

For the rotary users among us, pad priming and supplemental wetting agents can increase cutting power and leveling ability by a substantial amount. Although the orbital has closed the gap on the rotary, there are still a lot of fans of the rotary, and definite benefits that go along with using a rotary polisher.

So choose your polishing weapon, and get to polishing!

Written by Kevin Brown, Spring, 2011
e-mail: [email protected]
 

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Chris-

Thank you for acknowledging my article on TID. OMG!


I guess the twenty bucks make it to you alright. :money: How much is it gonna cost me to have you actually read it, and then post again? :Santa Smiley:
<:-P
 
This is hands down one of the best articles I have EVER read ANYWHERE on the inter-web. Thank you so much Kevin for
A) thinking about the things we don't
B) making it understandable
C) posting this so we can benefit from your knowledge.
 
I think I'm a little overwhelmed at the moment. I will read again and again. Thank you sir.

Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk
 
first i'd like to thank you kevin for so quickly emailing the pdf to me... i will print it out and read and re-read it i'm sure quite a few times. as todd said this is one of the most informative articles i've seen on the art of car polishing. your vast knowledge on the subject and your willingness to share it is a testament to your dedication. thank you for making me a better detailer.
 
Todd,

Thank you for the compliments and vote of confidence.

Were it not for your mention of the "KBM"... I doubt that as many people would have put faith in random orbitals as quickly as they have, at least in our small world of detailing forums. You can almost tie the peak in interest to the day you posted that thread on Detailing World (which was long ago removed for some reason).
 
glfahlc said:
first i'd like to thank you kevin for so quickly emailing the pdf to me... i will print it out and read and re-read it i'm sure quite a few times. as todd said this is one of the most informative articles i've seen on the art of car polishing. your vast knowledge on the subject and your willingness to share it is a testament to your dedication. thank you for making me a better detailer.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much, especially for crediting me for helping to make you a better detailer... :Dancing Dot: That's big.
 
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