Jacking up the car-options...

wifehatescar

wifehatescar

My L5-S1 is killing me!
Hopefully this forum is ok for this post...



I've been trying to decide the quickest way to either:



A. jack up the front of the car and put it on jackstands to change tires

or

B. jack up one side of the car as if to rotate tires.



I have jacked up the car under the tranny/motor or suspension areas before but I've heard it's not good for the motor mounts. On my FWD car, the only place I feel safe putting a floor jack under is the 4 pinch welds behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires (the factory recommended spots). However, if I use a floor jack on that 4" area of the car, there is no way to then use a jackstand (there's only space for one or the other).



My latest brilliant idea is to use no floor jack and no jackstands. I would buy 2 scissor jacks (like for spare tire use supplied by the factory) with hex drives on the threaded part. Then I would place one under each recommended pinch weld and jack it up using my air impact gun:D

I figure I could safely jack up the side or front of the car safely like this in under a minute. This would be just to change tires, etc--- not to get under the car.



Thoughts/opinions/suggestions???
 
I wouldn't use scisor jacks. They're to unstalbe IMO. I'd only use tehm in an emergency when my cell phone won't reach AAA and I'm stuck in a desert with a serial killer on the lose. Exagerating, but you get my point.



Usually, you can use the jack stands at the mount points for your scisor jacks too. These points are where mechanics use hydrolic lifts to jack up cars, so they should support the car's weight with no issues.



Some others will chime in, but I'd avoid the scisor jacks. A falling car can really ruin your day
 
I think you missed my question a bit. If I did put jackstands on the mount points, where would I lift the car at with the hydraulic jack to get the jackstands under it in the first place? That is my problem/issue.



Or to say this a different way, suppose the are (4) 4"x1" lifting points for the car (which is true). How would I get a jackstand under any of them with a hydraulic jack. To me it's a bit of a puzzle...



i.e. lift 1 point with the jack, ok......now what to do with the jackstand since the hydraulic jack is in the way?
 
What kind of car are we talking about here? The recommended jacking points are based on the jack that comes with the car. You should be able to safely lift the car using the scissor jacks at the pinch weld and then place your jack stands under the frame. Even a uni-body car should have sub-frames you can use to support the car.
 
Acura Integra. There are many places I could jack the car (motor/tranny/other parts of the body) but to my knowledge the only sfe spots are the 4 lift points. I have dented many a floor pan/subframe in my day, which is what makes me nervous.
 
You do not want to jack it up by the motor or trans at all! Then all that weight is sitting on your engine mounts...notto mention you could rip your oil pan off.



maybe i got what you are askign wrong though?
 
yes 2001civicex, I agree with you, the point is I DO NOT WANT TO lift at the motor.

This is the question I need answered:



"Or to say this a different way, suppose the are (4) 4"x1" lifting points for the car (which is true). How would I get a jackstand under any of them with a hydraulic jack. To me it's a bit of a puzzle...



i.e. lift 1 point with the jack, ok......now what to do with the jackstand since the hydraulic jack is in the way?

"
 
wifehatescar,



I understand your problem exactly, as it has been a puzzle to me as well.



I've been very reluctant to support my Merc in any other part of the body except the 4 jacking points. And I will not use the side holes except in dire emergency.



When I jack the car up, I place the stand under one of the wheel suspension arms - using no weight on the stand of course.



Like you, I've been too nervous to test whether this would be the best support. Makes me think it is no help at all, since I'll never know whether the spot will support it.



There appears to be no other area that will support the car at all. With the weight of the Merc - around 1800kg - using a floorpan or body support area is too risky.



Since I haven't found a solution, I just make sure I never put any part of my body (except arms) under the car... the invisible line is the chassis edge... so the risk of damage at any point is just the car falling on its bodywork - not me.



As well, I've bought a bigger hydraulic jack.



The Powerbuilt 3-ton is the best floor jack I could find. It has a wide stance so that it won't tip laterally, and has a good reputation for stability.



Really would like to hear more on this subject from anyone.





Ken Silver

--------------

1993 Mercedes SL500, 1991 Daimler (Vanden Plas), 1992 Miata MX5. Finish detailing, then start all over again...
 
wifehatescar said:
I've been trying to decide the quickest way to either:



A. jack up the front of the car and put it on jackstands to change tires

or

B. jack up one side of the car as if to rotate tires.



I have jacked up the car under the tranny/motor or suspension areas before but I've heard it's not good for the motor mounts. On my FWD car, the only place I feel safe putting a floor jack under is the 4 pinch welds behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires (the factory recommended spots). However, if I use a floor jack on that 4" area of the car, there is no way to then use a jackstand (there's only space for one or the other).
Click to expand...

I don't know how much clearance you have under there or how heavy your car is (I would have doubts about lifting a Merc like this) If you can get a suitable piece of timber (maybe steel with pads would work on a heavier car) that will fit between the jacking points you can then jack the car on the timber and then put the stands under the jacking points.



I used to do this on my mini's and 2CV's but I have yet to find something suitable for the Traction (but a steel joist would do the trick)



If I do find something I may take it one stage further and put wheels under allowing me to push the car around as well as store it in the winter with the wheels off the ground.



Have a look here for someone doing this with a Beetle
 
I was tossing the problem around just now, and suddenly came up with a solution.



Since our only worry in using a floor jack is it failing and collapsing the car on the ground, why not put the stand UNDER the jack arm?



That way - as an extra support - it prevents the problem. It may even help lateral sway if we lowered the jack arm on to the stand after the car was raised on it.



Of course, this would only work if the jack had enough room for the stand to fit under the raised arm, and fortunately mine has.



Anyone see any problem with this set-up? Further pic with the stand under the arm follows...



Ken Silver

--------------

1993 Mercedes SL500, 1991 Daimler (Vanden Plas), 1992 Miata MX5. Finish detailing, then start all over again...
 
I would suggest asking the questions on forums specific for the cars in question. Each car is different.



For example, to put my 993 on four jack stands you first use the floor jack on one rear jack point and place the front jack stand on that side, then use the other rear jack point to place the stand on other side. Then you place the floor jack under the engine case and jack the rear up, placing jack stands on both side in the rear. No problems. Most car have specific approved spots for placing a jack.



If you just want jack stands on either the front or the rear, then it seems you could use the respective front or rear jack point and then place the stand at the opposite (then repeat for the other side).
 
This pic shows the stand sitting under the jack arm.



Haven't yet tried it under the car, but see no reason why it won't work.



Ken Silver

--------------

1993 Mercedes SL500, 1991 Daimler (Vanden Plas), 1992 Miata MX5. Finish detailing, then start all over again...
 
wifehatescar,



I was thinking on the run here with my solution... then I read back and realized my idea would not solve either of your problems.



But it has solved mine anyhow :)
 
Yeah, thanks anyway. The only thing I can think of is using the timber idea and then jacking on the pinch weld on the side of the car. That would lift, say, the drivers side and then I could place each jackstand on the drivers side.



I still don't see how unsafe scissor jacks are on a stable flat garage floor taking wheels on/off with an air impact gun --- the car would not have any side to side forces on it (as if I was using a 2' breaker bar to take the wheel lugs off). And if the worst happens, I'm not under the car at all anyway...
 
I apologize if I missed something in my reading, but does the Acura Integra not have a front jacking point specifically made for a floor jack? :confused:



As far as I know, 99% of ALL cars should have one of these on each end....



Do you have a body kit or air dam that makes it so that you cannot get the jack under the front of your car or something? :nixweiss



Jacking points for both stands/2 post lift and front and rear jack points should be clearly labeled in an owner's manual diagram or at LEAST in any repair manual...
 
wifehatescar said:
I think you missed my question a bit. If I did put jackstands on the mount points, where would I lift the car at with the hydraulic jack to get the jackstands under it in the first place? That is my problem/issue.



Or to say this a different way, suppose the are (4) 4"x1" lifting points for the car (which is true). How would I get a jackstand under any of them with a hydraulic jack. To me it's a bit of a puzzle...



i.e. lift 1 point with the jack, ok......now what to do with the jackstand since the hydraulic jack is in the way?
Click to expand...



Sorry, I misunderstood, but you can use any point along the scisor jack rail to lift the car. The notches are just there for best placement suggestions. Jack the car with your hydraulic jack at any point on that rail and place your jack stands at the notches.



Looking at my maxima and 626 FSM, they both have jack points for the front and rear of the car. They tend to be around the axle, but there is a small (4x4) section on the underside that can be used as a floor jack point. I think this is the same thing 4DSC is talking about



Check your chilton's manual, it should show these positions.
 
Hmm, I thought it was just the 4 points mentioned but maybe there are ones in the front and back. None that I'm aware of right now though, but I'll look into it. Thanks for the suggestion / comments! I can get a jack under the front but just barely.
 
medic said:


The notches are just there for best placement suggestions. Jack the car with your hydraulic jack at any point on that rail and place your jack stands at the notches.
Click to expand...



UH! With uni-body construction, those notches are re-enforcements. If you try to jack along the "frame" at other points on the side, you bend the uni-body. How do I know? I tried. :eek: I thought this might be the case. So, I went very slow and only got a tiny dent in the "frame" of my Acura TL. On this car, there are jack point at the front and rear. A floor jack can be used there.
 
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