Jack - Please restock this item!

F

fishboy

New member
Okay I know Ive posted several pics before but now I have a different question...

Note the fender flare(on the top pic), which is basically the area that sticks out right above the tire, see the swirls...

Since this flare is not metal( its paint on plastic/polymer) do you think these swirls could come off as well!!!

Do the abrasives work the same way there??



Bottom pic...for those who havent seen my nightmare 'pro' detailing job, this is my hood that some jerk took a rotary buffer to...

This used to be my squeaky clean 2001 Black Cherokee...
 
It will take some work, but they may be removed.



Looks like an unknowledgable person with a rotary used a wool yarn cutting pad and about 2500 RPM, some glaze product and wailed away at it.



Needs to done correctly using a rotary, at no more than 1200 rpm, good polish product, lambs wool pad and low RPM, followed by the same machine,at 1000 to 1200 rpm, fine foam pad and polish to remove the final marring.



Then polish with a Dual Action and fine foam pad with the same polish.



At that point, you may apply your choice of final protective product.



This will not remove any measurable amount of clear, but will take out the marring created using incorrect techniques and product by the person that put them there.



These parts contain an additive correctly termed an elastomeric, but commonly called a flex-agent.



The additive allows for flexibility of the base and clear coat so the TPO material that is painted may have some "give" and not crack the base and clearcoat.

:bounce
 
Ron, Im taking it to your friend on Venice Blvd, he seems like he will do the most thorough job. He helped reassure me that my Jeep will be okay.

What is TPO?? I believe its the plastic/polymer that makes up the flare...Am I right?



Oh and did you see the spots that the detailer missed on the hood...I never should have paid that guy but we'll see how things turn out...

Thanks for everything...!!!



Jeremy
 
Oh my goodness, I am on my second bottle of Merlot and you ask me to spell out TPO?



It is tela--yada poly--ydada-olfin--ydyada



Made from recycled plastic, like pop bottles etc.



Those "marks" appear to be "etches" from IFO, (industrial fallout) which has been exposed to water, creating "acid rain" on the surface.



This is a prime example of a time when claying will not be an effective remedy.



They may be to deep into the clear to remove completely without compromising the resin system.



Bob has an electronic thickness gauge and will use it to insure that excessive clear is not removed.



However, that may leave them still partially visable, but at least you will still have a clearcoat.



:eek:
 
Be still my heart!



the spot on your fender is just HORRENDOUS. how, how, HOW could anyone who calls themselves a "detailer" do this to someone's car? My god, that is bad. i really feel for you jts, but it sounds like you've hooked up with someone who knows their stuff and can help you out.



those "buffs" look pretty deep. i don't think the guy who did my car put alot of pressure on it (didn't have to, the car was new and only had tree sap on it) since i was able to get the swirls out myself. on yours, though, it looks like he was really bearing down on the fender part.



have you thought about filing something on him with the better business bureau?



good luck on wednesday and PLEASE keep us posted!
 
Then if things arent looking too good, im definitely taking more action...



Keep in mind that this was a 2001 Cherokee(only 4000miles), with water spots on it. Now it looks like a jeep taken thru world war II...Im am rather upset...



Ill keep you guys posted...

JTS
 
What if I cant get the swirls off of the fender flares?? Or at least to my liking. If I replace those flares, how does that work...just get new flares that match or do they need to paint them and put them on??
 
Just so I understand...the TPO polymer will behave the same way as the regular clear coat on the metal?? That is, will the swirls come out from the flares as well as the rest of the car???



I really do not want to deal w/ getting new flares...

Thanks

JTS
 
Those parts are not steel or aluminum, nor are they the same as the composite used for Vettes or hoods on cars like a Mustang.



They are painted just like the rest of the vehicle, only an elastomeric additive is added to the clear in order for the clear to "flex" and not crack should a minor rock hit be experienced or you bang it with your foot.



Plus much less expensive to produce the part rather the having a steel dye to make it out of metal. Most are heat formed, vs the hoods on a Mustang requiring a "laid up" procedure. Same with some of the parts on the newer Vettes vs the older true fiberglas construction. (you really ought to see that Vette plant in Bowling Green)



If they can not be polished out, the bodyshop will sand the clear and reapply it while on the vehicle.



:up
 
That helped very much. It was just that I had this crazy thought in my head that the flare(TPO) may behave differently than the rest of the metal frame. But I guess since its the same paint and clear on top...it might be able to be buffed just like normal.

We'll see...

Only 72 hours until I repost the results!!! Ill bet you guys cant wait...yeah right!!!

See Ya

JTS
 
lol...
so simple, yet so useful. A good pad helps polishing greatly, but they're often one of those overlooked items that never gets any love until you lose/break yours.
G/L attaining one ASAP David!
 
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