Is this Rotary powerful enough?

I

imported_Indy YZF

New member
I have a moderate priced Rotary Buffer....I note that its two operating speeds are 1100 and 1350 rpms. I also note that the more powerful, more expensive units frequently will rotate up to 3000 rpms and more... Ive read that for optimal surface damage removal in modern clear coat paint systems, you need to heat the paint up to that level produced by a pad rotating somewhere between 1600 rpms and 2000 rpms.



With PROPER use, can the max speed of this buffer, 1350 rpms, produce the proper amount of heat and power to remove surface imperfections, or do I need a unit with a bit faster spin?



I also have a PC, but have my doubts on whether the orbital action will be sufficient at removing clear coat scratching which is deeper than surface swirls. Hence, the interest in the rotary for such duty...I'm well aware of the potential risks, and am just interested in whether my current 1350 max rpm unit will suffice, or, whether I need something more powerful.



Also, if you think that the PC, used with, say, a polishing bonnet and FI, is sufficient for such duty, please advise.



Thanks.
 
Ive read that for optimal surface damage removal in modern clear coat paint systems, you need to heat the paint up to that level produced by a pad rotating somewhere between 1600 rpms and 2000 rpms.
Click to expand...



Sorry, those are both way too fast. The clearcoat should not be heated above 110 degrees, at those speeds you can easily reach 130-140 and then you will be removing excess clear and you will destroy it. In reality you should never go above 1500 RPM. And the 1500 RPM is only in the worst cases. The best speed for rotary use is around 1200-1400 RPM.



If your unit goes up too 1350 you will be fine. Actually I would leave it at the 1100 setting and just work the surface longer. Remember, the first rule with a rotary is Faster is NOT better. :up
 
Thanks SHOWROOMLINCOLN! Youve just saved me not only the price of a new buffer, but quite possibly, the cost of a repainted M3 hood! Can a PC running with the same pad and compound at 6000 orbits per minute be as effective as a rotary running at 1100 rpms?
 
Can a PC running with the same pad and compound at 6000 orbits per minute be as effective as a rotary running at 1100 rpms?
Click to expand...



I don't think so. Due to the heat buildup a rotary can just do so much more when it comes to correcting surface imperfections, but I still think the PC is best for final finishing work.
 
SRL, with a 1100 rpm rotary, and a polishing pad, do you feel that 3m FI is about as aggressive as youd want to get on a '99 finish in excellent condition with a few asst scratches that go deeper than superficial swirls, but not so deep as to catch a nail? How do you feel about meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner #2 compared to FI in terms of aggressiveness and ability to remove such surface scratches? Are there any other products you favor under such conditions?
 
Meguiars Fine Cut is a little more agressive than FI. With a rotary always start with the least agressive product. You will be amazed at how much better abrasives work with a rotary. I would try some 3M SMR first. If that does not work then step up too FI-2. Then if still no luck the Fine Cut, but be careful! You might not even want to try using this with a rotary if you don't feel comfortable doing it.



When using a rotary keep the pad as "flat" as possible and only go to a 3 degree angle when needed. You will want to cover areas you don't want covered in splatter, rotarys splatter things all over the place. Also, use a nice consistant even buffing pattern and check your work often. :xyxthumbs
 
ShowroomLincoln said:
When using a rotary keep the pad as "flat" as possible and only go to a 3 degree angle when needed. You will want to cover areas you don't want covered in splatter, rotarys splatter things all over the place. Also, use a nice consistant even buffing pattern and check your work often. :xyxthumbs
Click to expand...



yhea good point you bring up.



Get an Apron! I ruined a shirt with 3m SMR. I didn't know it stained clothing! Well, now I do.



Tape off all the trim on your car. I also like to put newspaper over windows and the back of mirrors (if there plastic) to keep the fling off from getting on it. I find for some reason getting polish off glass is harder than getting polish off paint. Spending the time to tape off trim is a lot less work than spending the time trying to buff polish off of trim and redying trim if you damaged it.



You don't have to run a buffer very fast. I keep mine around 1200RPMs all the time and it'll get the paint warm. I've used it to take out some pretty serious swirls at that speed with no problems.



Also, cut in the edges of the panels first. Don't work edges or curved areas very hard. Those areas are easy to burn through.

Get waffle pads too. I find they are a lot easier to produce a swirl free finish with and they also run cooler than a flat foam pad.



If you don't want a rotary, then you can use a PC. I used my DeWalt RO (Just like the PC but yellow) to take out sandpaper marks. I had to go over the area twice with a compound to get them all removed and it takes more time to work the polish down that with a rotary. If you don't feel safe with a rotary, then a PC should be fine for you needs if you have the time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top