Is m80 fresh paint safe

S

Saleenfan

New member
I know its a polish but its also a speed "GLAZE" so thats what got me concerned or am I just over reacting. I am getting my hood and front bumper repainted (bye bye rock chips!!!) and i want to let it cure for a good 60-90 days but I also want to get the paint to a mirror finish before it hardens up.
 
M80 is silicone-free and thus safe for use in body shops.



I recently had the door of my car re-painted. I was told, as I'm sure you were, that I must not apply any kind of protection (whether wax or synthetic sealant) nor any detailing spray that contains silicone. But I was also told that it was safe for me to polish the car, if I wanted to do so.



I do not know if it is advisable to polish during this curing period. I think I remember Accumulator saying that he preferred to wait for the paint to harden up a bit, but perhaps I'm mis-remembering.



If you decide to go ahead, remember to do a TEST SPOT first. If M80 turns out to be too abrasive, then you might want to step down to M09 or M82. But hopefully Accumulator and other will offer you some good counsel here.
 
#80 has breathable polymers that protect the paint without interfering with the curing process. That is what I used on my Accord after it got hit and the front end repainted several years ago.
 
I am currently polishing out a single stage car (restoration) that was painted 4 days ago. The shop wetsanded with 2000, and I am using M105 and M86 to cut the wetsanding marks out. M80 will actually be my final polish.
 
akimel said:
M80 is silicone-free and thus safe for use in body shops.



I recently had the door of my car re-painted. I was told, as I'm sure you were, that I must not apply any kind of protection (whether wax or synthetic sealant) nor any detailing spray that contains silicone. But I was also told that it was safe for me to polish the car, if I wanted to do so.



I do not know if it is advisable to polish during this curing period. I think I remember Accumulator saying that he preferred to wait for the paint to harden up a bit, but perhaps I'm mis-remembering.



If you decide to go ahead, remember to do a TEST SPOT first. If M80 turns out to be too abrasive, then you might want to step down to M09 or M82. But hopefully Accumulator and other will offer you some good counsel here.
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Great point about the test spot. The car I am working on now...we spent over an hour yesterday dialing in the best method on our test spot.
 
if they have a down draft booth I would just have them paint it, put it together and give it to ya, dont let them wash it, bcuz it will be soft having the body shop wash it is not a good idea ( I know bcuz its what I do all day)



if its not a down draft then there will be some dirt in it and its up to you if you want them to wet sand it or you.



another good idea is to protect that investment and put a clear bra on the bumper and hood while its mint!
 
The only potential issue is that fresh paint is kinda soft until it's cured for a while. I've had *one* instance where #80 had too much initial cut and thus left "pigtail" type marring when used via PC. So do a test spot and if it's too aggressive either use something milder (e.g., #9) or something functionally nonabrasive (e.g., #5) until it hardens up some more. But I wouldn't *expect* the #80 to cause any problems at all.



Oh, if you want to put PPF on, note that 3M says to wait on *that* until the paint has finished outgassing too.
 
Polished&Waxed said:
if they have a down draft booth I would just have them paint it, put it together and give it to ya, dont let them wash it, bcuz it will be soft having the body shop wash it is not a good idea ( I know bcuz its what I do all day)



if its not a down draft then there will be some dirt in it and its up to you if you want them to wet sand it or you.



another good idea is to protect that investment and put a clear bra on the bumper and hood while its mint!
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I plan on doing that in about 2 months once the paint has cured.



Thanks for the info guys!
 
If you're having the front end painted due to rock chips. Why don't you have Venture Shield installed right away, the film breathes, and will not cause dye back.





John
 
weekendwarrior said:
I am currently polishing out a single stage car (restoration) that was painted 4 days ago. The shop wetsanded with 2000, and I am using M105 and M86 to cut the wetsanding marks out. M80 will actually be my final polish.
Click to expand...





:bigups - this megs line is perfect for single stage...





i still love M80 as a final polish....esp on black





and it is bodyshop safe.....so do it :xyxthumbs
 
JohnKleven said:
If you're having the front end painted due to rock chips. Why don't you have Venture Shield installed right away, the film breathes, and will not cause dye back.





John
Click to expand...



I was not aware that you could put a clear bra on fresh paint.... now i gotta look into that! thanks!:bounce
 
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