Is it possible to get a swirl...

I

imported_Intel486

New member
free finish using only a rotary? I am having a hell of a time doing it. I have finally gotten it down to a very light haze that is hard to see but it is still there. It makes me angry!



Does anyone have any suggestions as to chemicals and pads? and technique(sp?)?



I'm currently using meguiars #9 with a milkwaukee white foam pad. It saies finishing pad; it really feels and looks like the white foam pad that CMA sells for the PC.
 
If you have the experience with a rotary, then probably yes.



A follow up with the PC will most likely make the finish swirl free.



Imagine breaking down a big swirl to a really small one with the rotary, then the Pc will take that small swirl and make it perfect.



Like different levels of abrasives, just have to bring it to a finer and finer abrasive.



Jason
 
It's possible, but not easy. Pads make a huge difference. I like the 3M waffle pads the best. I tried the Lake Counrty VC pads like CMA sells for rotarys and they are horrible.:down The whole idea of variable contact pads with rotary buffers is a bad one. To get the pad to "bottom out" and be flat you need to apply a good amount of pressure, which is a big no no with a rotary. I believe that 3M even makes a rotary waffle polishing pad that is designed to remove the micro-marring haze that you are talking about. I'll see if I can find the part #.



Also the angle of the pad can make a big difference. You want to keep it as "flat" as possible but you can go up to around a 3 degree angle if needed. A consistant buffing pattern also helps
 
Showroom is right on the money. Our body shop uses all 3M products and I have seen them buff horribly swirled cars to an amazing swirl free finish with that waffle pad he is talking about. I almost S*#& my pants!!! He did half the trunk and I looked at it, absolutely noooo swirls! I wish I had that skill. He is one of the best ive seen, 30 years of experience :xyxthumbs .
 
Intel486, For the last time the 3M waffle pads are the best.;) I have used a rotary often for the past five years and i now only use 3M pads, in experienced hands one can achieve amazing results with a rotary. :cool:
 
No problem.:)



My favorite finishing pad is- Perfect IT Plus Foam Polishing Pad part #05738, the 05725 pad is also a good pad, it's just a bit thiner than the 05738 pad. I also like to use a foam compounding pad part # 05723, i use it with FI2 to remove tough swirl marks, oxidation and light scratches.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Andre' [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>
My favorite finishing pad is- Perfect IT Plus Foam Polishing Pad part #05738, the 05725 pad is also a good pad, it's just a bit thiner than the 05738 pad. I also like to use a foam compounding pad part # 05723, i use it with FI2 to remove tough swirl marks, oxidation and light scratches. [/b]</blockquote>Andre, I am a little surprised to find that these pads are listed as 8" though. This isn't a problem with a 6" backing plate?

Scottwax, which pad(s) are you talking about? Here's a link to 3M's compounding pads and here's a link to their polishing pads. Are you talking about the two pads that Andre mentioned? Thanks to the both of you!
 
Yes the 3M pads have velcro backs. They would probably work with the 6'' backing plate on an orbital, but make sure you have the pad centered on the plate for proper pad balance.



I, like Andre', use 05738 it's good pad. :up I have a different compounding pad though, I have 05737. I works fairly well, but at times it can be a little more agressive than I like.
 
I'll order a couple from supply this week and let you know;

I think as long as the pads are properly centered they will

work just fine. I keep you posted.

Bill;) ;)
 
I don't know if the big 8"pads will work with the PC or not,:nixweiss i only use the pads with my rotary. 3M does make a small 6" pad for orbital polishers they look just like the 8" pads, part # 05729.
 
To avoid getting swirls I've had good luck tying a second lambswool finishing pad over the first pad. You can start using the buffer at a slight tilt, but after going over the section using regular left-to-right motions a couple of times while the machine polish or glaze is wet, stop, spur the pad to clean it, then go over the section now that it is dry while holding the pad as flat as possible. This will remove most of the residue, until the pad becomes so full of polish that even after spurring it it holds on to too much polish. At that point you can remove it and tie on a fresh pad. I always finish using a hand glaze (Meguire's #7 or 3M Hand Glaze are products I'm happy with), then waxing with carnuba. Take the glaze off wet working on one panel at a time, but wax the whole car and wait for the wax to dry to a haze. Remove the wax with a cheesecloth to avoid getting scratches from the loops of a towel, and you'll end up with a very pretty shine. I'm old school and still have not tried a sponge-type pad.



'94 Nissan Altima
 
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