Is Collinite 476 THAT hard to use?

nonwelder

New member
I've read conflicting stories, but am still attracted to 476 because it seems like it might be a bit more durable than 845. Is it really hard to use? Any tips on application/removal technique?



Thanks.
 
Collinite 476 is all about technique and climate. The warmer the ambient tempature the easier it is to work with, the colder the temp the harder. With that being said, it is not impossible to use it in the cold, it just becomes more important the you remove it sooner than you would in warmer temps. The main rule with this product is "One to Two panels (small sections) at a time". Never leave the wax on too long because it will become very hard to remove. Also, always use thin coats when applying. Thick coats of any wax buys you nothing but wasted product. You should only barely see the wax on the paint. If you keep these points in mind Collite 476 can be an easy product to work with. Many of my customers that live on dirt roads like 476 because it seems to repel the dust very well.
 
Just be careful about trying to layer it. When it works OK, well...it's OK. But if/when it does the solvent-action thing you can get pseudo-holograms that are an incredible PIA to fix. IF that happens, the best solution I've found (and IIRC I have Akimel to thank for the tip) is to just top it with 845, preferably applied via PC.



FWIW, I do *not* buff it off before it dries, but then I don't even do that with Souveran any more. I get a (perhaps slight) boost in durability when I let it set up first.
 
476 is a complete PITA to use especially compared to 845 which is a dream.

Really not worth the hassle IMO.
 
Guess experiences with 476S just *differ* but I've really never found it hard to use :nixweiss Never even occurred to me that somebody'd think it's a pain until I started reading how other people feel that way.
 
Accumulator said:
Guess experiences with 476S just *differ* but I've really never found it hard to use :nixweiss Never even occurred to me that somebody'd think it's a pain until I started reading how other people feel that way.



Its all relative! Comparing the two, 476s is much harder than 845IW, both in application and removal. 476s is also more surface temperamental, its terrible on a less than well prepped surface. I suspect many complaints come from people who THINK they have well prepped paint.
 
yakky said:
Its all relative!





Yeah...and I guess I just have a different threshold of significance for this one than some people. I mean...I've used Souveran a zillion times, and you'd think I'd consider stuff like 476S a big PIA compared to that, huh? Just doesn't occur to me when I'm actually doing it.



476s is also more surface temperamental, its terrible on a less than well prepped surface. I suspect many complaints come from people who THINK they have well prepped paint.



Ah, maybe that's it. I pretty much always do something before 476S, and that something is usually a product that leaves stuff behind (e.g., 1z PP) so I'm kinda waxing over wax.
 
Use it all the time and never have trouble with it.

I apply it with a damp MF applicator and let it set up while I tend to other tasks (up to an hour at times)

.....very little trouble removing.

Keep it THIN and you should be OK in any situation.

It IS interesting, though, that experiences vary so widely.......gotta be in the technique.
 
gusbubba said:
It IS interesting, though, that experiences vary so widely.......gotta be in the technique.



Or maybe the underlying prep.



But experiences sure *do* seem to differ with so much of this stuff.... I used 476S on the exterior *rubbber* and plastic trim of the Volvo 245 wagon I used to have, yet people have problems with it staining trim :nixweiss
 
Accumulator said:
I used 476S on the exterior *rubbber* and plastic trim of the Volvo 245 wagon I used to have, yet people have problems with it staining trim :nixweiss



^^^^^^^^^^

That's a ballsy maneuver.......

then again, you got me using 845 on trim, so I'll have to take your word for it and give it a try.

What's the worst that could happen? :nixweiss
 
gusbubba said:
That's a ballsy maneuver.......

then again, you got me using 845 on trim, so I'll have to take your word for it and give it a try.

What's the worst that could happen? :nixweiss



The Volvo was my "try anything once!" testbed. Oddly enough, all sorts of stuff (stuff that the conventional wisdom advises against) worked out fine. That's where I first tried many of my outside-the-box ideas. Damn I still miss that car, but the current owner sure does appreciate it and she actually *needed* the thing whereas I could just buy another dog-hauler and start a new project. It's apparently happier now that it's in a no-winter/no-salt area anyhow.



The worst that could happen would be that "how do I get this white staining off?!?" nightmare that people post about in a panic ;) Don't try it unless you're prepared to deal with wax-residue-from-Hell in case it goes wrong ;) Do a sorta W-O-W-O method, and use the fogging-with-your-breath thing when buffing it. This is one of those things that worked for me, and was interesting....but I don't want to feel guilty if it goes really wrong for you :D Might be in that "don't try this at home, kids!" category.



It did look pretty awful once the 476S died (which did take quite a few months), whitish staining in the pattern I'd applied the 476S..but I just KAIOed it and redid it and all was fine again. Still, I did it with 845 when prepping it for its new owner, and suggested that she stick with that (which is working swell for her all these years later).
 
In terms of durability, Collinite 476/915 is the best wax I've used...period. It is not the easiest to remove when compared to most liquids or some of the new generation waxes/sealants, and in that respect I would call it an "old school" type product. However I would not call it a PITA...if you use some simple rules: #1) It goes without saying...prepare the surface properly...#2) Apply a very thin coat with either a sponge or cotton pad...#3) Allow to dry about 15 - 20 minutes and remove with a microfiber (note: It's not absolutely necessary to let 476 to dry at all...I've found it will last almost as long if you remove it immediately).



What you get is a great shine with plenty of warmth and depth (not the best available but better than most) and unmatched durability.
 
bobrobert said:
It is not the easiest to remove when compared to most liquids or some of the new generation waxes/sealants, and in that respect I would call it an "old school" type product. However I would not call it a PITA...



That's a great way to put it........"old school", traditional.
 
I did it last year for the fist time . I like the product a lot . I did NOT find it hard to use at all compared to all the things I've read here .



Yes do 1 section at a time and wipe off . I go by the body line sections. I will start doing the front fender then let it haze a slight bit and wipe off and so on with the doors , back panels , ect......



This fall I tried 845 for the first time , that real easy to use. BUT I have no proof but the 476x2 that I did last fall before winter was just incredible in the durability . Easily lasted through the winter and well into summer was still shedding water and beading and had a great shine. Even though on my personal truck I use car washes quite frequently during winter . (lot's of road salt , slush , snow , rain and ice ) held up great !!!!!
 
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