Is 1Z considered a "medium" cut cleaner?

C

charlesml3

New member
The hood and trunk lid of my car have lots of tiny pits that look like acid rain. I can get them out by wet sanding with 2000 grit but that seems pretty risky and possibly overkill.



Perhaps 1Z and a yellow pad?



TIA...



-Charles
 
Thats a tough question without pic's Charles.. Ive only used 1Z MP and I LOVE it but it wasnt for "pits" in the Paint. Ive been very interested in the Poorboys' SSR2.5, maybe you should give that a try with a PC?
 
Short Answer: Probably not.



Long Answer: First of all, there are three different 1Z polishes, so it partially depends on which polish you're referring to. They are, in order of decreasing aggresiveness: Ultra Polish, Paint Polish, Metallic Polish. Second of all, it completely depends on how deep the pits are. Most pits that I've seen etched into paint are deep enough that even an aggressive polishing session with UP or DACP and a yellow cutting paint don't come close to removing them. If you're going to try, I'd go at it with the UP or a similar polish. I wouldn't wetsand, but that's my personal preference. It has always seemed like an overly aggressive approach for a factory paint job on a daily driver, especially on a car you plan to keep for a while.



Hope this helps,

John
 
There's actually 4 1Z polishes. The 4th being the Express Polish which is the least abrasive of all the rest.
 
Good point, and there's actually the waxpolish soft, too, which is also very mild.



I haven't actually used either the waxpolish soft or the express polish, but from what I've read here, neither one will be any help with visible pitting.
 
And to complicate things even more... there's also the Pro version of MP :D



Acid rain pitting isn't something that *I* would try to correct with a PC; I'd use a rotary. I agree about *not* wetsanding to remove this sort of thing, you'll thin the clear to where you can't polish it much more (ever). Generall, IMO acid rain etching is something you should just live with on a driver.



If the Ultra/Extra won't do it with a cutting pad, then it probably can't be done by PC.
 
Nicky Pass said:
On the Metallic Polish bottle it says its safe for paint work....making me think its not abrasive at all!
Click to expand...



Well, "safe" is a relative term. The MP definitely *IS* abrasive, but mildly so (the "pro" version is a little more abrasive). I've discussed the nature of the MP abrasives with Mike from 1Z.



It's "safe" because the abrasives are so fine. You're not gonna remove too much paint no matter how often you use it.
 
Accumulator,



Do you think it would be worthwhile to add the Pro MP to the 1z triplet arsenal? Where would it fit in? An attempt first before going with PP?
 
Bill D said:
Accumulator,



Do you think it would be worthwhile to add the Pro MP to the 1z triplet arsenal? Where would it fit in? An attempt first before going with PP?
Click to expand...



I think so, at least in your/our case (what with our hard paint). It's more aggressive than the "regular" MP so it's more likely to actually *do* something ;) I'm always amazed that you get out micromarring with the MP though, so :nixweiss



But note that the Pro MP doesn't have as much wax in it, so you really oughta (IMO) top it right away whereas you can leave the Regular go until the next wash.



The Pro stuff isn't as cool looking (no pink tint) and it smells more industrial (I kinda like the weird smell of the regular). Not the sort of stuff that's supposed to matter to us "serious detailers" :rolleyes: but hey....
 
Thanks,



*Some* of the lightest micromarring visible under the 1000watt halogens comes out using MP followed by an alcohol wipe down but more times than not, it need PP then MP and/or FP. I suppose every instance of micromarring could require a different "recipe"
 
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