Iron X or just clay new car?

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phatrs

New member
Hi all,

I picked up a new car earlier this week and I`m wondering if I really need to bother buying some Iron X before claying the car.

I`m planning to give it a thorough wash, clay, mild polish then give it a coat of Carnauba wax.

Appreciate all your thoughts. :)

Ben
Melbourne/Australia

2015 VW Polo GTI & 2019 Golf R
 
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You don`t need to do both, I would give it the baggie test (sandwich bag over your hand and feel the paint) if it`s rough, clay it. If it`s smooth just Iron X. I know you`re in AUS so I don`t know what you have access too. But, something like a Nanoskin Autoscrub would work better than an actual clay bar. You`ll have less chance of marring the paint. I`ve used the Nanoskin Discs on a polisher, the Nanoskin sponges and I have an Adam`s clay mitt right now. And whatever you use for your lube make sure you spray a lot. And if you haven`t bought the stuff yet, IMHO a good synthetic wax would be better than Carnuba, or get a hybrid one. At least in the states they`re typically no more expensive than Carnuba, last longer and look great. I used Meg`s ultimate paste wax for years and loved it. Will probably buy another tub of it soon.
 
I still think that actual clay bar will clean better than any of the rubberized mitts, towels or sponges. Absolutely no doubt that the alternatives are faster and easier, but they don`t clean as good.
 
I was once only a synthetic clay fan, but recently picked up a regular piece of clay, I’ve fallen back in love with regular clay. However, I am really curious about the most recent Optimum Clay Towel and Car Wax combo, for maintenance it looks like it would be ideal.
 
I just did a 2019 Acura RDX.

I did iron removal and followed up with clay mitt. Then a non-abrasive polish using Poorboy`s World Pro Polish to clean her up further.

Here`s a pic of the iron decon part. This was the SECOND go around, as the first one didn`t get it all off.

 
phatrs- Here`s one of those answers that might not seem like one!

IMO, you need to use whatever is required. Oh sheesh, how`s *that* for a nonanswer?!? Actually, it *is* my answer and the only one I can give in good conscious.

Remember that, *used properly*, clay really just shears off above-surface contamination. It doesn`t really "pull stuff out of the paint" to an appreciable degree. So maybe it`s enough, but maybe it`s not.

If there are bits of Ferrous Contamination (e.g., "rail dust") on, or more importantly *IN* the paint, then you oughta use a Ferrous Contamination Removal Product (i.e., IronX or the ValuGard "B" that I`d use). The contamination gets into the (perhaps microscopic) pores/microfissures in the paint and while claying will remove the contamiation that`s "on" the paint, it won`t get all of the stuff that`s down *in* the paint. That can result in stains "coming back" in the form of rust blooms. Then you *gotta* go back and use the chemical approach to truly solve the problem.

The same goes for other forms of contamination too, such as Acidic Contamination.

Ferrous contamination gets the lion`s share of attention (perhaps because chemicals to resolve that do the "color change" that is so appealing), but it`s not the only thing to consider. That Acidic Contamination (acid rain/fallout, bird bombs, etc.) can *really* get down into the paint and it can then cause even more serious issues than the ferrous stuff. And unlike little specks of rust that scream "Ferrous Contamination!", it might not show until it`s too late and you have issues like etched clearcoat.

For Acidic Contamination, a highly alkaline product (e.g., ValuGard`s "A") is what`s called for.

BUT, if neither form of contamination are an issue, then claying/etc. will quite possibly be perfectly sufficient.

So my take is to use what`s required for the job, something that`s hard to predict over the internet.
 
Depends on where you live to. Up here in Washington I’ve use iron X, Griots fallout remover, Meguiars ultimate wheel cleaner and other OTC cleaners with iron remover and get almost no purple.

I know it means the cars are clean of iron deposit but hoping to see a car bleed.

I agree with earlier baggy test first. If it passes no need to mar your paint up with clay. I’d buy something cheap at first for an iron removal to see if needed. If so buy a better one? I tried to do a cheap and expensive test between 3 mentioned above and eagle one black and plasti dip. Nothing bleed so couldn’t tell personally if it worked any better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don`t know too well on the delivery methods ( new vehicles ) in your country, ( I was there back in the 80`s), but IMO I think both would be the way to go.
 
Definitely use Iron-X. It is a cheap insurance policy to remove any possible iron contamination. A clay bar will just shear off the iron particles where Iron-X dissolves the embedded shards.
 
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