Iron Removal Product

J

JSFM35X

Active member
I used the IronX for the first time this past weekend and WOW did it find the Iron fast. Really did a great job. My friend stopped by freakingout that these rust spots appreared on the Avalanche he leaves at the train station daily.

I was shocked at how the surface went form rough to smooth and how fast it worked. I used about 1.5 Litters of product to do all the paint on the truck, and wheels. After we clayed the car and the clay was almost 100% clean so I am not sure claying is necessary after Iron X. Is it? This car was detailed at the Chevy dealer several months ago. Thankfully it is white and my buddy does not see swirls-LOL

I gave my friend some Ultima paint Guard Plus and showed him the way and he sealed it up.

Why doen't Megs, Mothers or any other domestic manufacturer make and equal product? Seems Europe is ahead of us in coatings (Save Optimum)and Iron X type products. The only other products that do anything like this are Wolf's and Aquartz. At 1.5 Litters of concentrate per larger vehicle, that is pretty expensive for a decon step. I am going to be doing my 4 door car soon and wonder how much less I will use?

Thanks
 

IronX is truly an amazing product.

Other than the others you have noted I know that Finish Kare & ValuGard both ahve a 3 step decon system. Both are more work but overall cover the entire decon spectrum a little better. If I am not mistaken I believe the ValuGard system is approved by many of the OEM's as the decon system of choice.


I am able to get 2-3 small-midsized cars out of the 500ml bottle of IronX. So using 1.5L of product seems like a lot to me.

One thing that I have learned is sometimes less is more. I will spray a panel down but not to the point of large amounts running down the paint. You want it to sit and work. I then use a dedicated wash mitt or sponge to move the IronX around and work it into the painty. I then rinse the panel off and I am done. This does 2 things: Save product and makes sure that all the iron particles get IronX applied to them. After my decon process I wash the mitt or sponge and save it for the next time.
 
Thanks for the response, I think I did use too much, but I did not want to miss any spots and there was visible rust spotting. I will try to beless heavy handed on my own car. I will be trying the dedicated wash mitt method, thanks for sharing.

TroyScherer said:

IronX is truly an amazing product.

Other than the others you have noted I know that Finish Kare & ValuGard both ahve a 3 step decon system. Both are more work but overall cover the entire decon spectrum a little better. If I am not mistaken I believe the ValuGard system is approved by many of the OEM's as the decon system of choice.


I am able to get 2-3 small-midsized cars out of the 500ml bottle of IronX. So using 1.5L of product seems like a lot to me.

One thing that I have learned is sometimes less is more. I will spray a panel down but not to the point of large amounts running down the paint. You want it to sit and work. I then use a dedicated wash mitt or sponge to move the IronX around and work it into the painty. I then rinse the panel off and I am done. This does 2 things: Save product and makes sure that all the iron particles get IronX applied to them. After my decon process I wash the mitt or sponge and save it for the next time.
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Bunky said:
I have used IronX two times and still no major show. I guess my cars are too clean.
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You know, I believe that to be true. I had used Aquartz on my car when it was new and got almost no reaction. I posted my results and was told to try Iron X by carpro. I purchase it but never used it until now. If the Iron X did not react, it is because there was no iron to disolve. Perhaps the Aquartz works just as good but since I got the reachtion I did I am sticking with CarPro on this item. I also bought the paste and it is great for spots on wheels and baked on brake dust. I used this on a hard to reach (scrub) spot on this avalance's wheels around the air stem-it was black and in no time a purple stream ran down and we got it to 95%.

I also noticed that his side molding ran purple for a very long time after rinsing and rinsing and rinsing.
 
Bunky said:
I have used IronX two times and still no major show. I guess my cars are too clean.
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Al, I know what your talking about. The first time I used IronX it looked like a blood bath on the ground around my car. It was 6-7 years old and I had never really done a Decon other than a lite claying. I used IronX again this spring. The amount of reaction was minimal. I think the better you protect and maintain the protection the less bonded contamination you will end up with.
 
any pics?

gotta agree that you used way too much product. fine for the paint, not so much for your wallet

as mentioned above, I can do about 3 mid size cars with a 500ml bottle

move your arm from left to right as you squeeze the trigger to cover more surface area. seems obvious, but I find the tendency is to squeeze while the bottle is stationary. do long sweeping motions and squirt while you do that

I also follow up with a MF applicator damp with water, then sprayed with some iron x. I work this over the paint real quick to make sure i've got full coverage, as well as to agitate the surface (like most cleaners, agitation helps).

and yes I still clay after. its much easier, but tar, tree sap and a variety of other things that aren't iron based stick to the paint. so clay is still needed IMO
 
Bunky said:
I have used IronX two times and still no major show. I guess my cars are too clean.
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ditto that - think I'll skip that step on my next detail. Really depends on where you are and what's in the atmosphere in ur little part of the world. In my corner of south Florida, no iron problems but we have salt and dark color paint loves to fade from intense sun exposure.
 
addysdaddy said:
ditto that - think I'll skip that step on my next detail. Really depends on where you are and what's in the atmosphere in ur little part of the world. In my corner of south Florida, no iron problems but we have salt and dark color paint loves to fade from intense sun exposure.
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iron on your paint isn't specific to any one part of the country. brake dust is everywhere. Spray any wheel with iron x and it'll bleed like crazy.

The best 'shows' I've ever seen with iron x were people who went way too long without changing their brakes. metal from the pad indicator warning tab, and eventually the pad shim just showered their car with metal everytime they touched the brakes. If you're behind them on the road, you're getting it too.


Hyundai-elantra-severe-iron-x-bleeding-wide-view-1024x768.jpg


Hyundai-elantra-severe-iron-x-bleeding-qtr-panel1-1024x768.jpg
 
Megs, mothers, 3m - they market to the body shop world. The detailing world is super small time in comparison. We get some attention, but developing an iron remover product, that will never be used in the auto body industry for a few different reasons, I just don't know if you'll see it.
 
Gurge said:
Megs, mothers, 3m - they market to the body shop world. The detailing world is super small time in comparison. We get some attention, but developing an iron remover product, that will never be used in the auto body industry for a few different reasons, I just don't know if you'll see it.
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There is a lot of truth in this thought.
 
JSFM35X said:
Why doen't Megs, Mothers or any other domestic manufacturer make and equal product? Seems Europe is ahead of us in coatings (Save Optimum)and Iron X type products. The only other products that do anything like this are Wolf's and Aquartz. At 1.5 Litters of concentrate per larger vehicle, that is pretty expensive for a decon step. I am going to be doing my 4 door car soon and wonder how much less I will use?

Thanks
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In Europe we do have a lot more options with bleeding fallout removers. I think much of this might result from there being a lot of small operations targeting the detailing niche. A lot of detailers have decided to try to make a go of selling products with their own label and iron cleanse products are seen as central to this. I get the feeling that in the US there must be more strict regulation of the chemical industry since there seem to be many fewer set ups like this.
 
I also noticed that his side molding ran purple for a very long time after rinsing and rinsing and rinsing.
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The fasteners underneath likely had some surface rust and the IRON X was attacking it.
 
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