I want to get rid of "orange peel"

N

NetNathan

New member
My Inferno Red 2006 Charger SRT8 has "orange peel" in the paint.

I have been told it is in the clear coat.

Can't I just get it the clear coat wet sanded?

Who will do this?

Or is there a cheaper/easier method?



..
 
Wet sand it is the only option to remove orange peel....If you are going to do it your self you have to be very very careful and you have to know how to use a rotary polisher to remove the sanding marks.Otherwise it is better to pay someone to do it for you...

Is it the original paint or it has been repainted??
 
You can get the clear coat wet sanded, then buffed, etc. and it will look a lot better. For a limited time.

To get the smooth look you desire, you'll have to remove so much clear coat that it'll be in danger of premature failing, due to the removal of the UV inhibitors that reside in the upper portion of the clear coat.

I can sympathize. My vehicle has orange peel too. Ugh.
 
It is not recommended to wet sand factory finished paint because there is not enough clear coat to start with.
 
It is the original paint job..

I have also heard of "Color Sanding" folowed by a buff polish will remove quite a bit of "orange peel" also. Anyone aware of this process?

But it sounds like I shoud have it wet sanded and then and then a fressh coat (or 2) of clear.
 
no need to reclear then after wetsanding! what you want can be done! wetsanding will flatten the paint it all depends on how level you want your paint. do not do not do not do this by yourself pay some with a good rep! it can get exspensive, but the end result is incredible. oonce you see a paint job that is leveled and flawless you'll go insane! please do not attempt this with out exsperiance! good luck!!!
 
I didn't figure on doing it myself...for sure I will end up having to get it repainted then. ...lol

Anyobdy know a good place in SoCal like Inland Empire (1st choice), Orange, or LA County?
 
Tispho said:
It is not recommended to wet sand factory finished paint because there is not enough clear coat to start with.
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I would reccomend AGAINST wetsanding a newer car with factory clear. Sure it can be done but chances are you will thin the clear and have some tracers which can't be removed. NOT WORTH THE RISK IMO.
 
wannafbody said:
I would reccomend AGAINST wetsanding a newer car with factory clear. Sure it can be done but chances are you will thin the clear and have some tracers which can't be removed. NOT WORTH THE RISK IMO.
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I second that, factory clears are very thin. If it was really bothing me and it was my vehicle I would force myself to leave it alone because what about future polishing and maybe compounding down the road??? I got the chance and saw a old detailer (20 year veteran) go through the clear with acouple of strokes of 1200 grit sand paper inches away from the edge of a hood off of a 04 Hummer H2 acouple months back. It was disappointing to the customer (had to have the entire hood recleared) , the dealership (blamed the detailer for mistake) , and detailer (for such thin paint, thanks GM). It sucked because he had just washed it when i got there and did at most 3 or 4 strokes and cleaned off and his face went pale. The sad part was, it was his birthday and I had stopped by to say Hi.
 
NetNathan said:
Is there a diff between "Wet Sanding" and "Color Sanding"?
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Nope, same thing, different name. Color sanding was what it was often called back when paint was single stage as the color would run off as you sanded the paint.



PS, wet sanding orange peel completely off on a factory clear coat = not a wise idea.
 
+1 I'd leave it alone. You don't want to make a mistake that could cost big bucks. Polish with Menzerna products.



wannafbody said:
I would reccomend AGAINST wetsanding a newer car with factory clear. Sure it can be done but chances are you will thin the clear and have some tracers which can't be removed. NOT WORTH THE RISK IMO.
Click to expand...
 
I think you will find that if you do as MDRX8 says that finish will be improve a lot. My new Mazda as well as a lot of new car finishes are not perfect. However, I was able to bring out a nice shine after buffing with Meg. Ultimate compound followed by Swirl-x. These are safe products and will help.
 
i had my 03 vet wet sanded because i had a stripe put on, like the '96 grand sport, and the difference between the stripe and the rest of the car would have been to extreme, another words, the new work would have been so flawleess and flat as com pared to the rest of the car, my autobody guy was telling me to wet sand the rest of the car to match the new work, well it worked out well for me, but that's me and my car, i can't go against what the other members on here are saying so i guess if you're going to do it, have a professional do it and don't go crazy, ikt's a very thin line you're working with. i think if you don 't take off to much you'll be ok but ultimatly it's up to you.
 
If the orange peel is really bothering you and you want to do it the right way, you would need to de-trim the entire car, color sand the entire car to prepare it for more clear, have a couple of good thick coats of clear re-sprayed on the car, and then color sand and buff the new clear. It is costly, but the results would be nothing short of stunning.
 
Tispho said:
It is not recommended to wet sand factory finished paint because there is not enough clear coat to start with.
Click to expand...



Are all cars the same or do some manufacturers apply more clear coat?



If someone gets a custom paint job that they know they want to wet sand how much more clear coat needs to be applied?
 
Heyas, NetNathan... I thought I recognized you from the lxforums.com board...



My 'bee has orange peel, too. It's pretty hard to buy a new car these days without the Orange Peel option.



Like everyone has said, it's a huge risk to sand out the orange peel. Removing that much clear coat is asking for trouble. Especially if, after doing the sanding, you eventually get swirls in the paint that you want to remove. That would mean polishing the car with an abrasive polish, which of course means removing *more* clear coat. Your paint job probably wouldn't survive.



Orange peel is here to stay. I guess we're all just going to have to get used to it.
 
If the orange peel is really bothering you and you want to do it the right way, you would need to de-trim the entire car, color sand the entire car to prepare it for more clear, have a couple of good thick coats of clear re-sprayed on the car, and then color sand and buff the new clear. It is costly, but the results would be nothing short of stunning.
Click to expand...



This is the BEST way to do it.



I paint nearly everyday. Sanding down factory paint to either blend and/or

reclear. There is VERY little factory paint to work with and it's foolish to

merely sand down and polish OE paint to get rid of the peel. Even pros need

to be cautious.



I'm sure some of you have noticed, on GM vehicles in particular, that there

are spots where the color has poor coverage.
 
Heatgain said:
You can get the clear coat wet sanded, then buffed, etc. and it will look a lot better. For a limited time.

To get the smooth look you desire, you'll have to remove so much clear coat that it'll be in danger of premature failing, due to the removal of the UV inhibitors that reside in the upper portion of the clear coat.

I can sympathize. My vehicle has orange peel too. Ugh.
Click to expand...





Average Factory finishes are usually 1 mil of color, and 1-3 mils of clear, now keep in mind these machines are VERY precise, and material is NOT wasted. ONE PASS thats it..



Your average auto painter sprays 2-3 coats of base and clear on every square inch of the vehicle(if it's a full spray), with an average coating of 2-3 mil's per pass(depending on gun, technique, wet/dry coat).. ESPECIALLY on panels like quarters, hoods, fenders ceiling.. So for your average Clear coat from a professional your probably going to be looking at 6-7 mils of clear AFTER a cut n buff session to get that clear to a mirror like shine, more then 3 times the protection of an OEM finish..



OEM finish's are nice and flat due to a perfect spray pattern and optimized spraying system, but by no means are the materials as good as the products we use on a daily basis. I have yet to have a car's clear coat fail after color sanding. But have seen many OEM clears fail over time
 
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