I want more beading

W

waltj2k

New member
fellas,

I bought a 2000 Maxima a couple of months ago and I brought the paint back with the Pinnacle XMT set and my new PC. I spent 3 days working on her. The car looks much better than it did when I bought it. Dallas has been deluged with rain this year. I've noticed that the car doesn't bead water at all.

I like the beading action as it keeps the car cleaner longer. You know ultra slick surface is almost like the car has a shield around it. ;)

I have Klasse and UPP and have like the previous results as far as protection goes. The UPP does a nice job of providing that beading action.

Should I Klasse and UPP? or just leave well enough alone for now and do it later.

Walt
 
waltj2k said:
fellas,

I bought a 2000 Maxima a couple of months ago and I brought the paint back with the Pinnacle XMT set and my new PC. I spent 3 days working on her. The car looks much better than it did when I bought it. Dallas has been deluged with rain this year. I've noticed that the car doesn't bead water at all.

I like the beading action as it keeps the car cleaner longer. You know ultra slick surface is almost like the car has a shield around it. ;)

I have Klasse and UPP and have like the previous results as far as protection goes. The UPP does a nice job of providing that beading action.

Should I Klasse and UPP? or just leave well enough alone for now and do it later.

Walt
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Beading is not always a sign of protection....some chemicals have a high amount of oils this can cause beading but not necessarily protection..The XMT that you are using will provide more than enough protection...if you are using it on a regular bases...that meaning driving conditions, garaged or not..weather...all of these will determine how fast the product wears off the car.

The Klasse will cut the XMT off the car...its a cleaner product...you should add a topper on that a sealant would be my choice then a paste / liquid wax...if yo choice to use this combo....that should get the car beading!
 
Water molecules also can be attracted to other substances, such as metal or dirt, especially if they have some static charge on them. This is called adhesion.

While some substances are not at all attracted to water, and even repel it, for example waxes and or sealents. Wax, when applied properly to a clean car, fills in the larger scratches and layers the whole car. The chemical structure of the wax prevents water from penetrating to the surface of the car. Because the wax itself is hydrophobic (literally "fears water"), the forces of adhesion are much less than the forces of cohesion. So, water is more likely to stick to itself, and water beads up higher and rounder than on an unwaxed car.

If the water is sheeting off of the car then I would not worry as it is working properly...however if the water is just sitting there it maybe that the paint is still dirty...just my two cents...
 
Klasse AIO followed by UPP was my combo for several years.
The XMT360 would seem to be a similar product to the Klasse AIO and I would think the UPP would be a great LSP to use with it. Since you already own both, it would be pretty easy to try.

Charles
 
Stephan said:
Water molecules also can be attracted to other substances, such as metal or dirt, especially if they have some static charge on them. This is called adhesion.

While some substances are not at all attracted to water, and even repel it, for example waxes and or sealents. Wax, when applied properly to a clean car, fills in the larger scratches and layers the whole car. The chemical structure of the wax prevents water from penetrating to the surface of the car. Because the wax itself is hydrophobic (literally "fears water"), the forces of adhesion are much less than the forces of cohesion. So, water is more likely to stick to itself, and water beads up higher and rounder than on an unwaxed car.

If the water is sheeting off of the car then I would not worry as it is working properly...however if the water is just sitting there it maybe that the paint is still dirty...just my two cents...
Click to expand...

That's impressive and I like it!
 
Stephan said:
Water molecules also can be attracted to other substances, such as metal or dirt, especially if they have some static charge on them. This is called adhesion.

While some substances are not at all attracted to water, and even repel it, for example waxes and or sealents. Wax, when applied properly to a clean car, fills in the larger scratches and layers the whole car. The chemical structure of the wax prevents water from penetrating to the surface of the car. Because the wax itself is hydrophobic (literally "fears water"), the forces of adhesion are much less than the forces of cohesion. So, water is more likely to stick to itself, and water beads up higher and rounder than on an unwaxed car.

If the water is sheeting off of the car then I would not worry as it is working properly...however if the water is just sitting there it maybe that the paint is still dirty...just my two cents...
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Great post.

I guess I'm not seeing the sheeting action to my liking.

The paint on this car is clean. Darnit it better be. My prep was wash, full clay, wash before using the XMT products. Afterwards the car felt much more silky.

I do think the protection is their. The water however simply lays flat on the roof. During my wash last night I noticed a full layer of water not beads of water on the roof. I which made me wonder if the car was in motion would the water sheet off? i.e. going down the highway at 60 mph.

Maybe this is just a 6 in one hand 1/2 dozen in the other situation.
 
waltj2k said:
Great post.

I guess I'm not seeing the sheeting action to my liking.

The paint on this car is clean. Damnit it better be. My prep was wash, full clay, wash before using the XMT products. Afterwards the car felt much more silky.

I do think the protection is their. The water however simply lays flat on the roof. During my wash last night I noticed a full layer of water not beads of water on the roof. I which made me wonder if the car was in motion would the water sheet off? i.e. going down the highway at 60 mph.

Maybe this is just a 6 in one hand 1/2 dozen in the other situation.
Click to expand...



I have to say that with the amount of protection that you have added to this paint....you are plenty safe....I'm sure of that....now the beading is another issue....there are plenty that say beading water is a sign of a well protected car....not true completely.

If you have some paste wax add that to the top and I would bet that you will see the beading that you are looking for
 
You are speaking of Klasse AIO as opposed to Klasse SG aren't you? SG can be finicky and produce mixed results if conditions aren't just right. Assuming that is the case I would think your suggested process would be dandy. I've used AIO and UPP dozens of times over the years and still feel it is one of my go to combos assuming swirls aren't an issue. I really like UPP and AIO for that matter but have found a couple of products that work as well for me as AIO for less money. AIO lost some of its appeal for me when it went through its reformulation. Meguiars ColorX is just such a product at about 1/3 the price of AIO. UPP is just about my all time favorite topper when speaking of sealants. Most of the time I still top with a carnauba. Water will bead with just about any quality carnauba.
 
If you want beading try Meguiar's Ultimate Detailer after wax. This stuff is amazing. Used on my wifes balck CTS 5 weeks ago and still beads like crazy.
 
prostock53 said:
If you want beading try Meguiar's Ultimate Detailer after wax. This stuff is amazing. Used on my wifes balck CTS 5 weeks ago and still beads like crazy.
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I'm glad you are getting this type of result with your detailer. I believe most would agree that a detailer (by its typical definition) is more of a last step or in between wash type product. Most detailing sprays unless they are a spray wax won't make it through one wash. Meguiars Ultimate Detailer is one of these products that will it uses a polymer technology (kind of a sealant lite) to give it that extra zip.
 
GearHead_1 said:
I'm glad you are getting this type of result with your detailer. I believe most would agree that a detailer (by its typical definition) is more of a last step or in between wash type product. Most detailing sprays unless they are a spray wax won't make it through one wash. Meguiars Ultimate Detailer is one of these products that will it uses a polymer technology (kind of a sealant lite) to give it that extra zip.
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Thanks for the heads up. Maybe that's a way can get that bead action without a full re-wax.

Car does look great with the XMT work that I did. I just want to keep it that way for a long time. I want water and other contaminants to not gain a stronghold on the paint.
 
waltj2k said:
Thanks for the heads up. Maybe that's a way can get that bead action without a full re-wax.

Car does look great with the XMT work that I did. I just want to keep it that way for a long time. I want water and other contaminants to not gain a stronghold on the paint.
Click to expand...

Do you have any PB S&W? its a great way to maintain the finish on a daily bases....I buy it by the 5 gallon size...also you can follow up with some QD spray and that will extend out all that hard work...it what I do on my cars almost every day
 
If beading is what you're after, you may want to look at the Collinite products. They bead like crazy and they're pretty durable.
 
i have found from personal experience that waxes seem to bead more then sealents. Thats not to say sealents dont bead or that one is better then the other. Ihave just personaly found it to be this way.

With waxes (i promise i have tried a few) i would recomend megs #26- high tech yellow wax.

Meguiars #26 Hi-Tech Liquid Wax is a polymer liquid car wax that offers excellent paint protection and shine! Meguiars #26 High Tech Liquid Wax is

I have heard of people saying that it beads to much, which is a good sign i guees.

Becarefull it can and will stain trim, but it will bead like crazy
 
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