i need a serious swirl remover

K

kskphoto

New member
like title says. I read the product descriptions on autogeeks, and its like everything they sell is the best thing.

I have some pretty serious blemishes in my paint (white BMW). I used adams swirl and haze remover with orange pad and PC. Looks nice, but still needs alot of smoothing.

I am thinking this :: PC w/ yellow pad. Either PB swirl 3 or pinnacle swirl 3
as my cutting agent.

Is this going to be strong enough, or should I just get a compound? which one?

Thanks.

_MG_4160.jpg
 
kskphoto said:
like title says. I read the product descriptions on autogeeks, and its like everything they sell is the best thing.

I have some pretty serious blemishes in my paint (white BMW). I used adams swirl and haze remover with orange pad and PC. Looks nice, but still needs alot of smoothing.

I am thinking this :: PC w/ yellow pad. Either PB swirl 3 or pinnacle swirl 3
as my cutting agent.

Is this going to be strong enough, or should I just get a compound? which one?

Thanks.

_MG_4160.jpg
Click to expand...

I think SSR3 with a yellow cutting pad is a bit much...
You might try SSR2.5 with an orange pad and crank the Pc up to 6 for a few passes and see your results...mixing SSR3 with a yellow cutting pad is like 1500 sandpaper which will need more steps to follow. :)
 
kskphoto said:
I have some pretty serious blemishes in my paint (white BMW).
Click to expand...
Yes, you do.
To show up like that on a white car, they are definitely serious.
To level those out will take some time with a PC, but it can be done.
I have only used Poorboy's or Meguiar's products and only once had that type of damage to clean up. It took a lot of time, but I used Meg's DACP and a polishing pad on the PC at a speed of 6. By a lot of time, I mean hours. Probably 20 to 30 minutes per panel for me.
This is an example where a rotary and the right products in the hands of someone that knows how to use it would clean that up in 5 minutes a panel. I don't happen to fit that description. :)

Charles
 
I'm with Charles on this one about the rotary you need heat to get those scratches out...However as Steve said working with what you have the SSR 2.5 and a cutting pad will do wonders with your PC on 6, but will need to be followed up with polish and a polishing pad to smooth the hazing associated with SSR2.5...Work the panels real well going in small areas and four separate directions until the product is gone or disappears....I would follow the same way with the polish.....Just remember slow and steady, its not a race.

I might also think about using a glaze or product that has some fillers in it, not that I condone fillers but on a finish like you are starting with this could help to cover up what you can't get out...top that with a sealant, paste wax or both.

The one thing that you have going for you is that this is white and forgiving of minor scratches and such.

That's my take
 
Poorboy said:
I think SSR3 with a yellow cutting pad is a bit much...
You might try SSR2.5 with an orange pad and crank the Pc up to 6 for a few passes and see your results...mixing SSR3 with a yellow cutting pad is like 1500 sandpaper which will need more steps to follow. :)
Click to expand...

I agree it might be a bit much, But I think I need it. I will certainly follow with
A non abrasive polish, and poorboys EX to achieve gloss.

I got the PC in the mail yesterday, and I worked on a few panels to test. Much of the swirling came out, but the deeper ones, and some scratches remain visible.

The Hi-temp looks good too, but it looks like they recommend a rotary for optimum results. I have the PC, so thats out
 
ok, I ordered the SSR 2.5 and will use the orange cutting pad. I talked to tech at autogeek and this was the recomendation. I wanted to get ssr 3 and a yellow, but they think that would be to harsh.

I will try the 2.5 and see how it goes. I hope that i can get my desired results
this .. and the XMT glaze which has fillers to cover what the 2.5 wont remove. I will update my results this coming weekend.
 
kskphoto said:
ok, I ordered the SSR 2.5 and will use the orange cutting pad. I talked to tech at autogeek and this was the recomendation. I wanted to get ssr 3 and a yellow, but they think that would be to harsh.

I will try the 2.5 and see how it goes. I hope that i can get my desired results
this .. and the XMT glaze which has fillers to cover what the 2.5 wont remove. I will update my results this coming weekend.
Click to expand...

Do you have a lighter polish to use with the 2.5 as well? One round with the cutting and another with a polising or finishing pad would be ideal IMO. Another polish may be needed to clean up marring from the cutting pad if you are planning to go to LSP (or glaze) from the SSR2.5 and cutting pad.
 
kskphoto said:
ok, I ordered the SSR 2.5 and will use the orange cutting pad. I talked to tech at autogeek and this was the recomendation. I wanted to get ssr 3 and a yellow, but they think that would be to harsh.

I will try the 2.5 and see how it goes. I hope that i can get my desired results
this .. and the XMT glaze which has fillers to cover what the 2.5 wont remove. I will update my results this coming weekend.
Click to expand...

I've read all your posts and just want to put in that you have to be realistic about what results you can get from the paint that I see pictured...I'd have to say based on my experience that you are still going to have some swirls in this paint...attacking it with aggressive products and pads will help, provided that it is done right and you don't burn threw the clear or paint...this looks like an older model BMW mid to late 90's 3 Series is a guess...that pic looks like it could be of the trunk area..the paint on those models are hard to level with out some heat..a rotary is what I would be using...however be realistic about your results you are still going to have, its going to be hard to take those off with out damaging the paint if not careful....as I said earlier...its white and is forgiving of blemishes
 
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