I have a wax question..

Q

queens guy

New member
Hello all new to site and wanted to get some basic information. I have a 2011 Nissan Maurano black on black which my wife drives as a daily driver. Car is left outside and almost everyday has bird poo on the car.

Paint looks “good” with swirls etc. I bought a beginner kit from Chemical guys last year which had some wax, shampoo, spray polisher, buckets, micro towels etc… Here is what I bought now:

Chemical Guys all purpose cleaner
Chemical Guys Signature Series Glass Cleaner
Chemical Guys clay bar Light Duty
[FONT=&quot]Porter Cable 7424XP with heavy-duty 5-inch hook and loop backing plate[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Meguiar’s Ultra cut Compound[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Meguiar’s Ultra finishing Polish[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Meguiar's M2164 Synthetic Sealant 2.0 - 64 oz.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I plan on washing-clay-compound-polish-seal when my items get to me.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Here are the questions I have:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Are the steps in the correct order: (wash-clay-compound-polish-seal) ?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]After the first time I do the wash-clay-compound-polish-seal, for the next time if the paint hold up do I just wash-polish-seal ?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Is there a need to “ wax” at all with the polish? Being that Meguiar’s Ultra cut compound is so aggressive should I only use it like 2 times a year or on extreme need?[/FONT]
 
You have the order correct. You will need to wash or use a IPA wipe down after polishing to remove polishing oils or your sealant will most likely fail. There really is no need to put wax on top of the sealant. It helps improve protection and slightly enhances the look of the paint. You can do two coats of sealant on the paint and that's fine. Once the paint is corrected you only need to wash the car until the sealant starts to fail. Then you can wash and seal again. Keep in mind paint is really thin and you can only remove so much before your out of clear coat. The other thing is sealant and wax do not make a car shiny. Polishing out defects makes it shiny. Wax and sealant enhance it little bit but they are meant to protect the paint.
Correct the paint once then use proper technique to keep it swirl free. Once you remove major damage you should only need to do a fine grade clay and light polish once a year.
 
Good your using Meguiars for your last few steps.

Quote from Mike Philips:
"Actually by staying inside a single product line there is Synergistic Chemical Compatibility.

This is because you're working with products all formulated by the same chemists."

Means you don't really need an IPA wipe down in between polish and M21 as long as both products are Meguiars.
 
That may be true. I'm no taking any chances of 2 coats of LSP failing on me when I could have spent 20 minutes wiping it down ensure proper bonding of the LSP.
I have stayed within the same company products and have had LSP failure. So after all the pain correction I'm doing a wipe down. That way I know I do not have o go back and touch the car again.
 
I plan on washing-clay-compound-polish-seal when my items get to me.

Here are the questions I have:

Are the steps in the correct order: (wash-clay-compound-polish-seal) ?

After the first time I do the wash-clay-compound-polish-seal, for the next time if the paint hold up do I just wash-polish-seal ?

Is there a need to “ wax” at all with the polish? Being that Meguiar’s Ultra cut compound is so aggressive should I only use it like 2 times a year or on extreme need?
Click to expand...


Yes, for an initial detail, your steps are in correct order.

For every detail after the 1st, you will simply apply each process (which offers a different solution) as needed.

For example, inspect the finish occasionally after washing by touch. If the surface feels rough, then you need to clay.

Inspect the finish visually for swirl marks or scratches. Any visual defects are an indicator that you will need to repolish soon.

Inspec the surface by sight (looking for water beading behavior changes) and by feel (should feel smooth and slick). If you either degrades then you will likely need to apply more wax.

Yes you need to wax after polishing (or claying). Wax adds protection to the surface, polishing or claying doesn't.
 
I Have never seen a BLACK car that i can do to my satisfaction in two steps.

i always end with a menzerna product on black.. they are the best for that although poorboys gives them a good run for the win.
 
I decided to wet sand a few scratches off the car. I used 2000 grit paper and i did this before with no issues on a few scratches with a scratch kit. Well I decided to get rid of 2 scratches and started to lightly wet sand them out. I then used my PA 7424 with Hex-Logic polishing pad and Mags ultra cut compound (105) followed by mags ultimate finishing compound(205).

Well fist time I am using a pa so not sure if maybe i did something wrong but after using the 105 i did not see much of a difference. I see a few scratches but still very dull. I then switched to the 205 with white pad and polished it a few times like 4-5 times and it got a little better but it is not the same as the rest of the car. I can still see like a dullness to it.

How can I correct this? I did not post pics cause you can't see it. You can really tell from a angle. Am i using the wrong compound? did i not compound it out enough?
 
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