How to use clay bar questions

J

jeffvb9

New member
Hello- New to the site and am learning a lot.

One thing I have failed to find on this site after several days of looking is how to actually use the clay bar. I know what its used for.....just dont know how to actually apply it to the paint on the car.

I know I can use the lube/clean soapy water when using the bar.

Now when I go to do a section do I use a back and forth motion, circular motion (not probable but had to ask). Do I go from front to back or back and forth from side to side??? How much pressure do I apply?

Any help would be appreciated....I honestly cant find this info in the forums anywhere.....

Thanks.
 
all u gotta do is make sure the car is clean. so wash it. spray some lube on the clay, spray some on the car and just wipe back and forth for like 3-6 strokes and move on... no need to apply pressure but in those really gritty areas i tend to aplly like 2-3lbs of pressure. wipe off micro fiber. then after u're done check the surface asnd see if there are certain areas that need a second pass. in the end the paint should feel really smooth. but either way just check one of the tutorials on claying. they're more specific than this but give the same general advice.


joy
 
joyriide1113 said:
all u gotta do is make sure the car is clean. so wash it. spray some lube on the clay, spray some on the car and just wipe back and forth for like 3-6 strokes and move on... no need to apply pressure but in those really gritty areas i tend to aplly like 2-3lbs of pressure. wipe off micro fiber. then after u're done check the surface asnd see if there are certain areas that need a second pass. in the end the paint should feel really smooth. but either way just check one of the tutorials on claying. they're more specific than this but give the same general advice.


joy
Click to expand...


Thanks....

I checked the tutorials but it really doesnt get that specific....

You answered my questions though... Thanks!!
 
You can also clay during the wash stage if you like. I would suggest going in a straight line (the direction of air flow over the car generally), and let the clay do the work. No need to bear down very hard for the clay to do it's job. If you decide to try it out during the wash stage, make sure to clean the panel first and use the remaining soapy water as a lube. I think this method has saved me a little money, but it saves a lot of time for me as well. Just be sure to cut your clay up into smaller pieces before going to town. That way, if you drop it, you don't waste a whole bar. Good luck!
 
:yeah

I started claying using the lube, but discovered (with a little help from DC) that doing it with wash suds is easier, cheaper, and faster. When I'm going to clay, I just have my wash mitt on one hand and the clay in the other. I wash the panel, rinse the mitt, put some fresh suds on the panel, then clay. In general, using almost no pressure at all. The clay should just glide over the surface.

The exception to that is if you have some visible contamination that is not coming off with several passes at no pressure. Then I'll just sort of wrap the clay around my index finger, and use just the tip of that finger, with as much pressure as it takes, on the clay to get rid of the stubborn stuff. Then, immediately knead that portion of clay to the inside, cuz if it took some pressure to get it off, it's bound to scratch or mar if you keep going with that part of the clay. I've got some significant micromarring to fix on the silver kick-panels of my truck due to learning that lesson the hard way. Had a whole bunch of rusty specs (probably rail dust) all over, so I clayed an entire panel at a time, then kneaded. Not enough. Marred to heck and back. :)

As you've probably picked up from other threads, once a particular chunk of clay is contaminated to the point it can no longer be used on painted surfaces (or if you drop it), don't throw it away, save it for use on glass. I never realized how dirty my windshield really was until I clayed it. :D

HTH
 
I checked the tutorials but it really doesnt get that specific....

I don't know if this will help with any unaswered questions-

Place some saran wrap or a zip lock bag over your hand and rub across the finish lightly. Every snag you feel is below surface contaminant that the Detailers Clay bar can remove but you may not be able to see. The best way to describe the proper method for using detailer clay is to use plenty of the lubricant and aquaplane the clay bar over the surface in straight-line motions.

Detailer's Clay Application
•Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
•Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into the foam clay holding pad.
•Place the kneaded clay into a damp pad (Groit's Cleaning Clay Pad) spray with a lubricating solution (WooliteTM or Dreft™ / Water 5:1) the foam clay holder will retain moisture and enable an even pressure to be applied to the paint surface while using it.
•Spray evenly onto a two square foot section with the lubrication solution, ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
•Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
•Use an imaginary two-foot by two-foot square area to work on.
•Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
•If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out
•When the Clay is moved across the paint film surface you should hear a friction sound and some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the solution off with 100% cotton Alpine DF Microfiber cloth.
•To avoid wasting detailer's clay because you probably will drop it, place a towel on the ground under the area you're claying so the clay will fall onto the towel without picking up gravel etc.
•If you drop the clay on the ground do not try to clean it, discard it or it may cause micro scratches in your paint film surface.
•Rinse of any clay residue and ensure there is no more contamination to remove
•Move onto the next two-foot by two foot square area and repeat the process.
•Once half the section is completed turn the clay over to a fresh, clean side and completes the remaining section.
•Check the surface of the clay often, once it becomes contaminated fold to a clean surface.
•Wash, rinse and dry each section and ensure all imbedded surface contaminants have been removed before moving on to the next panel / section
•I would go over the paint surfaces again with the clay to ensure nothing was missed
•When complete wash, rinse and dry the vehicle to ensure removal of any clay remnants

Clay will do virtually nothing for subsurface damage in the paint. It may remove some surface oxidation, but clay will have no impact on other subsurface problems such as scratches and etches.

Clay will not completely remove heavy ferrous oxide deposits or those that are deeply imbedded in the paint. In these situations, I recommend an acid neutralizing wash followed by treating with a corrosion inhibitor. You will find that a proper acid neutralizing wash will remove most of the ferrous oxide deposits and the remainder comes off very easily with clay.

The next steps should be to rinse and thoroughly dry the vehicle, remove any surface imperfections with a machine polish, clean the paint with a pre-wax cleaner and apply a protection to the paint film surface
JonM
 
Now you have two complete versions.....!

No complete detail is complete unless you have "clayed" your vehicles surface. Kind of a strange name for a product, but I assure you its completely safe when used as directed. It can be rather intimidating if you have never used before, but once you have, you’ll wonder why you waited so long. Clay is designed to pull contaminants away or simply sheer them from your paint surface, safely, and this is accomplished with ease.
So what equipment or materials is needed? There’s no equipment needed at all! All you need is clay, and a lubricant, and a micro fiber towel for wiping upon completion. Now you can skip the towel if you elect to clay while washing.
There are many brands of clay available, and at least two are usually available at your local auto paint supply store or Automotive parts store (Kragen, Pep Boys). Meguiars makes a new version, better than its preceding version, Mothers makes a nice kit, comes with the clay, a lubricant (Showtime QD), and a small sample of Pre Wax Cleaner. The original Clay Magic I believe still comes with a lubricant as well. Make sure you buy or are using “Fine grade� in the beginning stages.

So lets get started !
Lets assume, it’s the beginning of summer, and you want your ride looking the ultimate! You begin with your normal wash routine (see Proper washing techniques), you’ve removed any tar, gum, and assorted crap stuck to the lower panels with a citrus cleaner or tar/adhesive remover (3M comes to mind). Now you have dried the surfaces with a waffle weave drying towel, and "she" looks good, you rub your hand along the top of the hood, and you feel what seems like specs of sand (If you think it feels good at this point, put your hand in a sandwich baggy)..... Close analysis, its actually tiny bits of metal (Brake linings, rail dust), or just normal industrial fallout. Its inescapable, pollutants happen to everyone, and the reason we need to remove these pollutants is, metal contributes to rust, and once rust starts, it’s usually not good! Not to mention physical appearance anyway.
Make sure your working in a shaded area, on a cool surface. Once you get started, the whole process can be completed in about ½ hr. Lets start with the hood. Unwrap your clay product, and take about 1/3 to ½ of it in the palm of your hand. Place the other portion back in the wrapper it came in, you may need this in case you drop the 1st half. If you do drop it, discard it. Spray the lubricant on about ½ to 1/3 of the surface, just as you would while quick detailing it. Take the clay in your hand and knead it until its somewhat soft. Mold to about the size of a small pancake, and place at your fingertips for easy control. Gently place the clay on the surface and glide it back in a front to back motion (grill to window). Use about 10-12 inch passes and overlap each pass. Fold the clay after each area has been cleaned. You will feel some resistance at first, but with passing motions, you’ll be able to tell the clay is removing pollutants! If you feel too much resistance, your either not using enough lubricant or your surface is REAL dirty. A good way to tell you’re not using enough lube or if your surface is too warm, is the clay is leaving product on the surface. This can be removed, with a micro fiber towel. After each area has been clayed, wipe and buff dry with a micro fiber towel.
Clay will remove a portion of wax or sealant protection, so you should follow up with polishing and sealing/waxing. Clay is not a polish! It will remove contaminants, small areas of road tar, road paint, over spray, fallout, and light oxidation. Any areas larger than an eraser tip should be cleaned with a cleaner prior to using clay, otherwise you will end up polluting your clay for future use. You should be able to clay your surface half a dozen times, depending on the quantity of contaminants.
If anyone has additional comments or concerns, feel free to post, or PM me !
 
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