How-To: Rotary Cord Extension

justin30513

justin30513

Mobile Detailing Services
How-To:

Rotary or PC Cord Extension



Tools needed:



Rotary or PC

25 foot extension cord

3/8" Heat Shrink Tubing

(2)16-18AWG Crimp aka Butt Connectors

Crimpers

Wire Strippers

 Heat Gun

(Hair Dryer will work but will take longer.)



The Process:

As I'm getting ready to really start learning my Chicago Tools rotary (awesome machine for 30.00!), I really didn't like the fact of a 5 foot cord. So, since it was raining today, off to Lowes I went to gather my supplies.



First, here's a look at the goods.

Pictures001.jpg




You want to cut off the male end of the rotary's cord and also cut off the female end of the extension cord. Then you want to expose about a 1/4 of an inch of the inside wiring of the white and black wires. Ignore the green wire on the extension cord.....this is for a ground and the rotary has a floating ground.

Pictures003.jpg




Next, just match up the colors and crimp away. Make sure you slide the heat shrink tubing over one of the cords first.

Pictures005.jpg




Slide the tubing over the crimped wires like this.

Pictures006.jpg




Break out the heat gun or hair dryer. Careful, this thing gets hot!

Pictures007.jpg




After heating (will not take long) the tubing constricts over the mended wires and crimps. This makes for a water tight seal too. The tension is also now exerted on the tubing and not the crimps if pulled upon.

Pictures008.jpg


Pictures009.jpg




All done! 30 feet of "non'cussin' if my cord come out" length!

Pictures010.jpg




Disclaimer:

None of these products or practices were endorsed by Autogeek.net nor have they approved this post.

Please no bashing or flaming.



Thanks to all!



justin30513​
 
Justin, this is a really great subject, but in all honesty I don't think you held the shrink wrap gun on long enough, it needs to shrink a little tighter. I don't mean to be disrespective , but I have had some experience in "Shrink Wrapping" using heat guns and tubular shrink wrap and I sure as hell don't want you to have a leak accident!

It is dam near as involved as detailing. Great post.



However your approach is great!

Changeling
 
I would have popped the handle and wired the extention cord straight to the machine. that way you don't have the week area where the splice is. I would also buy all weather cord in 10 gauge instead of 16gauge.



you will have a lot of heat generated with the 16 gauge wire, possibly causing other issue down the road.



FWIW i usually do this type of thing to my tools when i get them.
 
The crimp connectors beneath the heatshrink aren't the best idea IMO. As changeling noted, the tubing didn't shrink down as tight as you might like for a cord like that - because of that, there's a chance that the crimps could become loose, and possibly even cause a short if it happens on the extension side.



If you were to extend that way, I'd at least put individual heatshrink tubes over each crimp connector prior to heatshrinking the whole cord. Soldering the wires together would probably also be a better idea, but as Grouse stated, really the best way to go about it is to open the tool up and change the original cord altogether.
 
Those butt-connectors will be fine. His shrink tubing maybe needs a little more heat from the gun, but other than that, the mod is fine. I would maybe put some electrical tape over the area as well.



I will have to try this Justin, thanks.



PS-Love the disclaimer!
 
Grouse said:
I would have popped the handle and wired the extention cord straight to the machine. that way you don't have the week area where the splice is. ....
Click to expand...



That is the correct way to do it.



Crimp splices are not designed to carry a load, especially a tension load. That’s why there’s always some form of strain relief clamp where the cord enters the tool.



The current carrying conductors aren’t meant to carry a load either. That’s why the outer jacket is so sturdy. Some cables will even have a rope core to relieve tension on the conductors.



Heat shrink tubing won’t provide any significant strain relief in tension. At most it would provide a little bending relief but it won’t do anything to reduce the stress on the crimps in this application.



Since it’s nearly impossible to get the two crimp joints exactly the same length the stress will mostly transfer to the shorter of the two conductors (looks like it’s probably the white one from the pix). That one will likely loosen and/or fail first.





PC.
 
Grouse said:
I would have popped the handle and wired the extention cord straight to the machine. that way you don't have the week area where the splice is. I would also buy all weather cord in 10 gauge instead of 16gauge.



you will have a lot of heat generated with the 16 gauge wire, possibly causing other issue down the road.



FWIW i usually do this type of thing to my tools when i get them.
Click to expand...





You can do that to. A lot of guys will not open up a machine. This is just one way to do it. Of course there will be a 100 other "ways I would have done it" posted.



This was just the way I chose to do it, take pics, and post.



Others may if they want to take the time.
 
the other pc said:
That is the correct way to do it.



Crimp splices are not designed to carry a load, especially a tension load. That’s why there’s always some form of strain relief clamp where the cord enters the tool.



The current carrying conductors aren’t meant to carry a load either. That’s why the outer jacket is so sturdy. Some cables will even have a rope core to relieve tension on the conductors.



Heat shrink tubing won’t provide any significant strain relief in tension. At most it would provide a little bending relief but it won’t do anything to reduce the stress on the crimps in this application.



Since it’s nearly impossible to get the two crimp joints exactly the same length the stress will mostly transfer to the shorter of the two conductors (looks like it’s probably the white one from the pix). That one will likely loosen and/or fail first.





PC.
Click to expand...





Hmmmmmm.....



I did my PC like this, uh, about 5 months ago and I use it daily. For about 3 hours at a time.



Oh well. Guess I wouldn't have known unless I just did it myself.
 
Justin, it was a good idea for sure. The reason I do it my way is because I don't even want the cord to touch the car. If I find my camera I take a pic, thanks for opening up your thread for suggestions!
 
hey justin do you like that rotary? 30.00 is a steal for a nice rotary, does it work as well as the other ones most used on this site??



Jim
 
kleraudio said:
hey justin do you like that rotary? 30.00 is a steal for a nice rotary, does it work as well as the other ones most used on this site??



Jim
Click to expand...

It's great to learn on since it's not a torque monster. I have had 3 other pros get one and tell me the same. It really surprised them! Most of them have to use it on the MAX setting which is about 1800 rpms. None had any negative issues.



Will I get a different one?



Probably............in a year or two!
 
Slickery said:
Justin, it was a good idea for sure. The reason I do it my way is because I don't even want the cord to touch the car. If I find my camera I take a pic, thanks for opening up your thread for suggestions!
Click to expand...





No bro, you way is good! I would do the same if I wasn't mobile!



Thanks for contributing to the post!
 
hey justin it says on the specs that it goes from 300-3000 RPM??



do you find yourself using that one more than a PC?? When you say torque monster do you mean the RPM's??



thanks, ive been really kicking around the idea of getting a rotary and now i just might!



Jim
 
justin30513 said:
Hmmmmmm.....



I did my PC like this, uh, about 5 months ago and I use it daily. For about 3 hours at a time.



Oh well. Guess I wouldn't have known unless I just did it myself.
Click to expand...

I won't address the tension thing, but as for crimp connectors and the gauge wire you selected, keep in mind that the PC is only about 3.3 amp and the rotary is around 10. Big difference.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top