How to reduce splatter with a rotary?

B

benpocock

New member
OK - I guess this has been asked a million times before but there aren't many answers to be found when I did a search. I've become pretty proficient with the PC so invested in a 9227 a while back but so far haven't really had the need/time to have a play with it - until this evening. I started with a pretty non-aggressive pad/product combo (#82/W8006) to reduce the chance of mucking up.



I picked up steering the machine pretty easily, but jeez I had #82 everywhere :lol . I tried a little amount of product, a bit more product, low speed, slightly higher speed, picking the product up off the paint and putting it in the pad first, but no matter what I did I got splatter.



So, is there any set way of eliminating this, or are you going to get an amount of sling regardless? Any tips gratefully received!



Ben
 
OK - I guess this has been asked a million times before but there aren't many answers to be found when I did a search. I've become pretty proficient with the PC so invested in a 9227 a while back but so far haven't really had the need/time to have a play with it - until this evening. I started with a pretty non-aggressive pad/product combo (#82/W8006) to reduce the chance of mucking up.



I picked up steering the machine pretty easily, but jeez I had #82 everywhere :lol . I tried a little amount of product, a bit more product, low speed, slightly higher speed, picking the product up off the paint and putting it in the pad first, but no matter what I did I got splatter.



So, is there any set way of eliminating this, or are you going to get an amount of sling regardless? Any tips gratefully received!



Ben
 
10 o'clock method works really well. If you haven't seen the Meguiar's videos yet, you should make a point to go to BCC and take a look. DO a search for video and they should pop-up.



JJ
 
10 o'clock method works really well. If you haven't seen the Meguiar's videos yet, you should make a point to go to BCC and take a look. DO a search for video and they should pop-up.



JJ
 
Splatter is almost always caused (IMHO) by allowing the product (b4 it's broken down) to get to the edge of the pad. It's centrifical force.



Klean Car has a great article here which offers some insights.



Start with about a quarter (USD 25 cent piece) amount of product. That's the total amount you want. You can bump it up to maybe a half-dollar size but I don't think you'd need more



Now you can put little dabs to total that amount on the pad or make a line whatever thrills you but go no further out than the middle (or a little past it) from center.



With the machine at the lowest RPM (speed) setting possible put pad/machine to panel (flat) and lighly pull the trigger while moving the machine across the area to be worked on.



The idea here is to spread the product on the panel and get it to "begin" to work in. You'll find after a few seconds you can let the machine work at the full (low) setting.



Once that's done you can "flip" the speed up to the desired operating rpm's and do your thing.



If you like to "prime" your pads when first starting out w/a dry one (with water or QD) just mist it on (one or two pulls on the trigger from about 6" away) don't saturate the pad like your gonna wash something with it.



the key thing to remember is that until the polish is worked into the pad and begins breaking down it's just a liquid.
 
Splatter is almost always caused (IMHO) by allowing the product (b4 it's broken down) to get to the edge of the pad. It's centrifical force.



Klean Car has a great article here which offers some insights.



Start with about a quarter (USD 25 cent piece) amount of product. That's the total amount you want. You can bump it up to maybe a half-dollar size but I don't think you'd need more



Now you can put little dabs to total that amount on the pad or make a line whatever thrills you but go no further out than the middle (or a little past it) from center.



With the machine at the lowest RPM (speed) setting possible put pad/machine to panel (flat) and lighly pull the trigger while moving the machine across the area to be worked on.



The idea here is to spread the product on the panel and get it to "begin" to work in. You'll find after a few seconds you can let the machine work at the full (low) setting.



Once that's done you can "flip" the speed up to the desired operating rpm's and do your thing.



If you like to "prime" your pads when first starting out w/a dry one (with water or QD) just mist it on (one or two pulls on the trigger from about 6" away) don't saturate the pad like your gonna wash something with it.



the key thing to remember is that until the polish is worked into the pad and begins breaking down it's just a liquid.
 
I use this method. Start the pad with one spritz of water. Lay a couple of small strips about 3" long, after beginning with one double strip to prime the pad.



I put one 3" strip every 1 to 2 square feet, depending on product and start to use less at the end of the polish job, as the pad is fully primed.



I place the pad on a strip to start and work it until another area is ready, then i pick up a strip at about 9:30 with a slight-low pressure tilt. Then move-spread around the area and work it and then move on.



Remember to keep moving to the left. Meaning polish a panel, move left and wipe any dust or splatter off panel and the car will be fairly clean after.
 
I use this method. Start the pad with one spritz of water. Lay a couple of small strips about 3" long, after beginning with one double strip to prime the pad.



I put one 3" strip every 1 to 2 square feet, depending on product and start to use less at the end of the polish job, as the pad is fully primed.



I place the pad on a strip to start and work it until another area is ready, then i pick up a strip at about 9:30 with a slight-low pressure tilt. Then move-spread around the area and work it and then move on.



Remember to keep moving to the left. Meaning polish a panel, move left and wipe any dust or splatter off panel and the car will be fairly clean after.
 
salty said:
I place the pad on a strip to start and work it until another area is ready, then i pick up a strip at about 9:30 with a slight-low pressure tilt. Then move-spread around the area and work it and then move on.
Click to expand...



Are you picking up the polish at 9:30 with the machine moving right, or left?
 
salty said:
I place the pad on a strip to start and work it until another area is ready, then i pick up a strip at about 9:30 with a slight-low pressure tilt. Then move-spread around the area and work it and then move on.
Click to expand...



Are you picking up the polish at 9:30 with the machine moving right, or left?
 
I've mentioned my methods multiple time for my splatter free rotary usage. Pour your product onto an applicator pad and do multiple thin dabs on the panel (If you've seen how they apply make up. Spray a little water and turn on your rotary. I never have splatter with this method. If you were to spread the product with the the rotary pad, it'll still splatter.
 
I've mentioned my methods multiple time for my splatter free rotary usage. Pour your product onto an applicator pad and do multiple thin dabs on the panel (If you've seen how they apply make up. Spray a little water and turn on your rotary. I never have splatter with this method. If you were to spread the product with the the rotary pad, it'll still splatter.
 
I agree with all the above, but remember some products don't like a primed pad, like most Poorboys SSR's. For those I just dab it on with a foam applicator directly on to the paint then start with the PC at low speed and work the product in pretty well before I turn up the speed. I move *really* slowly too.
 
I agree with all the above, but remember some products don't like a primed pad, like most Poorboys SSR's. For those I just dab it on with a foam applicator directly on to the paint then start with the PC at low speed and work the product in pretty well before I turn up the speed. I move *really* slowly too.
 
Well I watched all the Meguiar's videos again the other night and went out the next day determined to master not getting splatter, and so far so good. I think where I was going wrong was not priming the pad and also letting the producct get to the edge of the pad. With a new primed pad and picking the product up at 10am I didn't get any splatter whatsoever.



Now I just need to set aside a few hours and practice some more. Thanks for all the advice guys:xyxthumbs



Ben
 
Well I watched all the Meguiar's videos again the other night and went out the next day determined to master not getting splatter, and so far so good. I think where I was going wrong was not priming the pad and also letting the producct get to the edge of the pad. With a new primed pad and picking the product up at 10am I didn't get any splatter whatsoever.



Now I just need to set aside a few hours and practice some more. Thanks for all the advice guys:xyxthumbs



Ben
 
I've been using the 6 inch line method as stated on menzerna bottles.

I prime the pad a couple times, sometimes only once and then lift the left side of the pad a little and quickly go over the line and then flatten and begin buffing at 600-800 rpm and then once done the horizontal overlapping of the panel, speed up the rotary to 1000 + and do vertical and horizontal passes and if necessary spray the panel once to keep the product going to prevent dry buffing

With Clearcoats, I buff at no more than 1400, SS paints - 800-2200 rpm.



Will however try the dabbing method suggested by x trail
 
I've been using the 6 inch line method as stated on menzerna bottles.

I prime the pad a couple times, sometimes only once and then lift the left side of the pad a little and quickly go over the line and then flatten and begin buffing at 600-800 rpm and then once done the horizontal overlapping of the panel, speed up the rotary to 1000 + and do vertical and horizontal passes and if necessary spray the panel once to keep the product going to prevent dry buffing

With Clearcoats, I buff at no more than 1400, SS paints - 800-2200 rpm.



Will however try the dabbing method suggested by x trail
 
Get the 8.5" pad, you cant go wrong with this one. Spread a 6" beads on the panel and position your pad in a 10 oclock postition and start in low rpm, once it done spread evenly then you can up your rpm. Hope this help..
 
Get the 8.5" pad, you cant go wrong with this one. Spread a 6" beads on the panel and position your pad in a 10 oclock postition and start in low rpm, once it done spread evenly then you can up your rpm. Hope this help..
 
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