How to acheive desired results?

B

Bluedog

New member
hi, i have a question for Klasse users... i was doing some reading in CMA when i seemed to have come across 2 kinds of AIOs.

theres this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/klasseallinone.html

then theres this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/kla-16.html

to me it seems like the same thing. Klasse seems to only have two bottles: a red one and silver one (AIO and SG). the only difference is the second link has "Polish and Sealant" after the name for the AIO . same prices too. HOWEVER, the first one is 16.9 oz and the second one is only 16 oz...

so are these two products the same? i just want to make sure:) thanks in advance
 
No, they are not the same. Your links explain the best. Consider it a two step process.



I just used them for the first time last weekend. Two coats of AIO and three SG so far. Really pleased with the two. The directions say to use very little SG, they mean it!
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Likecars [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>No, they are not the same. Your links explain the best. Consider it a two step process.

I just used them for the first time last weekend. Two coats of AIO and three SG so far. Really pleased with the two. The directions say to use very little SG, they mean it! [/b]</blockquote>
wait, so whats the difference? which AIO are we suppose to use first? all i know is the SG is applied last.

those links are not showing a AIO and a SG... they r both AIO
 
The RED bottle is All In one read description on your first link.



The gray bottle is Sealant glaze. read note at end it states what it is used for.



"Special note to perfectionists: Wipe a final coat of Klasse High Gloss Sealant (gray bottle) over the All-In-One for even greater shine and durability."
 
no no, im aware of the two bottles (red and grey). but if u look at the link they are both a link for the AIO . the first one is for AIO and SG while the second one is just AIO.



the wierd thing is the oz size are different between those two links but the prices are the same. both links are of AIO not SG...
 
hmm i think the site just was lazy in specifying the exact container amount for that second link and forgot the .9.



so there is only ONE "all in one" correct?
 
The bottom line is there is only one "All-in-One". Not a polish "All-in-One" and a sealant "All-in-One". Just one "All-in-One" Not two types, just one type. There is no other "All-in-One" but the one type of "All-in-One". Buy from either of those links and you will only get the only type of "All-in-One". :)
 
Hi, the AIO is both a polish and a sealant. It is like the difference between a cleaner-wax and a carnuba wax. The KSG is a straight sealant. I have used both the Klasse and the Zaino. Both do an excellent job. The Klasse is great because you can top it with a wax. Good luck, Diane
 
A couple of questions actually. First, im working with black paint that needs mild paint correction. It has your typical swirl marks from improper washing techniques. Im new to the machine polishing and am using Meguiars G110v2 with m105 and m205. I was initially planning to use 105 with a orange pad and then 205 with a white pad thinking that would be best. Im just wondering what i should expect the condition of the paint to be in after a few passes with m105 on the orange pad? Should i still expect some minor swirl marks? Also is hologramming normal to see after using 105 and the hologramming expected to be taken care of when your finishing down with the 205? I did a couple passes with m105 on the orange pad and didnt see very good results and im just wondering if maybe i need to apply more pressure or maybe just go with a couple more passes? :confused:
 
M105 will cause marring or hologramming if used on soft paint. Follow up with M205 on a white or black pad and see if they come out. How bad are the swirls? Some of the other guys may have some better ideas for your paint condition, got any pics?
 
I wouldn't say the swirls are really severe, but they are definately evident under halogens and in direct sun. i'll post some pictures up tomorow. it definately left some hologramming after the passes with 105 though and i wasnt too sure if that was normal or if it was something i was doing wrong as far as using the machine
 
I always continue the effort that seems to be working but may not get it 100%. What I mean by that is if you see the marring reduced 60% with M105 and orange after the first pass do it again and you might get the remaining marring.

Many folks stop after one pass when it doesn't remove everything completely. They then change out to something more aggressive and press on. If you're seeing results with your first or second attempt, try it a third or fourth time. This approach may be more time consuming but I like to level down to the point that remains thin enough to remove the scratches but not too much to remove excessive amounts of paint.
 
Also, remember to do a small section at a time and inspect your work. I'm sure that you already know this, but you don't want to do the entire car, only to realize that you are not happy with the results. Perfect your technique, and then move on to the next section.
 
Polishing with a DA polisher, M105, and an orange pad can leave some very light marring in the paint, particularly if it is soft paint. M205 should have no problem removing whatever haze M105 leaves behind.
 
Depending on how soft/delicate your paint is M105 and the orange LC pad may be too aggressive and leave more marring than you really want. It's always best to do a test spot or two to see what really works best for you. If you find something less aggressive gets the job done, then why hit it with the biggest hammer you can find? In all honesty you may even want to start with Ultimate Compound rather than M105. UC is derived from M105 but is a more user friendly product in many ways - it will certainly give you a longer buffing cycle with less dust than M105. We use UC in our Saturday Classes and get outstanding results time after time with it. Following it with M205 to really refine the finish is a great way to go.

Puckman's advice about giving a product two passes rather than immediately stepping up to a more aggressive product is excellent. Too often people expect instant gratification when polishing paint, and it rarely happens that way. Very hard paint may mean two or three passes, depending on a person's expertise, and very soft paint can drive a novice crazy as they struggle to remove defects that seem to never go away, no matter how aggressive they get. And therein lies the challenge of soft paint and a novice detailer - they don't always think about going less aggressive to get rid of the defects, primarily because they don't realize they are causing the problems themselves!
 
Michael Stoops said:
Depending on how soft/delicate your paint is M105 and the orange LC pad may be too aggressive and leave more marring than you really want. It's always best to do a test spot or two to see what really works best for you. If you find something less aggressive gets the job done, then why hit it with the biggest hammer you can find? In all honesty you may even want to start with Ultimate Compound rather than M105. UC is derived from M105 but is a more user friendly product in many ways - it will certainly give you a longer buffing cycle with less dust than M105. We use UC in our Saturday Classes and get outstanding results time after time with it. Following it with M205 to really refine the finish is a great way to go.

Puckman's advice about giving a product two passes rather than immediately stepping up to a more aggressive product is excellent. Too often people expect instant gratification when polishing paint, and it rarely happens that way. Very hard paint may mean two or three passes, depending on a person's expertise, and very soft paint can drive a novice crazy as they struggle to remove defects that seem to never go away, no matter how aggressive they get. And therein lies the challenge of soft paint and a novice detailer - they don't always think about going less aggressive to get rid of the defects, primarily because they don't realize they are causing the problems themselves!
Click to expand...

that last pararaph explains my enigma all last summer trying to get my soft jet black paint totally mar free. when i finally got it perfect. i scratched the paint putting on the lsp with a used applicator... arrrrrh
 
I really appreciate it guys. Im definately going to give a less aggresive combination a try and hope that yeilds a little better results. I have 205 and UC on hand so ill see which one works for me.
 
glfahlc said:
that last pararaph explains my enigma all last summer trying to get my soft jet black paint totally mar free. when i finally got it perfect. i scratched the paint putting on the lsp with a used applicator... arrrrrh
Click to expand...

That is why I thoroughly clean all my pads and applicators with Power dissolver at the end of the day.
 
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