How should I apply Optimum Polish

I am getting this stuff in by the end of the week and was wondering if it is best if used by rotary with a lc white pad or if I should use the PC with a white pad. I was searching for an old post about the polish but was unsuccessful. Also how long should I work it for? Thanks for your help
 
Top Notch,



Ive used the Optimum polish, and it's very easy to use. Try a white LC polishing pad first. If that dosn't give you the cut you need move up to an Orange Pad. I usually run 1300 - 1500 rpm's. Finish off with a black finishing pad. Results are awsome. It's my new go to polish.
 
topnotch said:
I am getting this stuff in by the end of the week and was wondering if it is best if used by rotary with a lc white pad or if I should use the PC with a white pad. I was searching for an old post about the polish but was unsuccessful. Also how long should I work it for? Thanks for your help



This depends on the surface. I would first try the PC and the white polishing pad. If this does not give you the desired results then try the rotary and again a polishing pad.



As noted keep the rpm's around 1200 to 1400. I have never really had to go any higher than 1800 rpm's and this was for paint in pretty bad condition.



Also as correctly noted, if the white pad does not give you the results you seek (when used with a rotary) then bump up to an orange or wool pad. Optimum can take your paint from the leveling stage to the finishing stage with the proper use of polishing and finishing pads.



The work time of Optimum is just about infinite. I was hard pressed to dry the product out when I demo'd it several days ago, and this was with a rotary. The negative comments I am hearing from others about the Optimum is that, to them, it is too oily. This is a GOOD type of "oily" though as this is what acts as a "barrier" (buffing barrier as Kevin puts it) between the pad and the paint. This helps in achieving reduced heat and a better flow of the buffer. They are not filler oils.



A detailer here in town got some from me and said he has a hard time with it because, "It doesn't work like my other polishes!" I told him to work it twice as long as he would, say, DACP or any 3M product, which he did and now he can see the benefit and results of the product.



Products like IP or DACP may cut faster than Optimum Polish but I believe the Opt. will give better results with a longer working time and less time spent in clean up.



Hope you like the product and if I can be of any further help please let me know.



Anthony
 
Thanks for the responses Anthony and Rufus, being that this polish seems to behave very differently compared to others I wanted to be 100% sure of how to use it so I would not mess up. As it looks right now my first test car will be a Lexus Lx470 which I detail friday. I will first try the pc with the white pad and then with a LC orange pad. If that does not work I will then try the rotary in the same way at about 1000-1200 rpm. I will post again once I try it out.
 
I've used Optimum with my PC and the Cyclo I had borrowed and had great results with both machines. Even with the Meguiars burgandy cutting pad I got no marring-but I was using it on an Audi which had some pretty hard paint. Works very well with the yellow Meguiars polishing pad and Propel's yellow medium cut and green lite cut pads too.



Anthony is right on when he says you can work it a long time and it leaves the paint looking really good. No problem following it with an LSP after using a polishing pad.
 
Anthony Orosco said:
This depends on the surface. I would first try the PC and the white polishing pad. If this does not give you the desired results then try the rotary and again a polishing pad.



As noted keep the rpm's around 1200 to 1400. I have never really had to go any higher than 1800 rpm's and this was for paint in pretty bad condition.



Also as correctly noted, if the white pad does not give you the results you seek (when used with a rotary) then bump up to an orange or wool pad. Optimum can take your paint from the leveling stage to the finishing stage with the proper use of polishing and finishing pads.



The work time of Optimum is just about infinite. I was hard pressed to dry the product out when I demo'd it several days ago, and this was with a rotary. The negative comments I am hearing from others about the Optimum is that, to them, it is too oily. This is a GOOD type of "oily" though as this is what acts as a "barrier" (buffing barrier as Kevin puts it) between the pad and the paint. This helps in achieving reduced heat and a better flow of the buffer. They are not filler oils.



A detailer here in town got some from me and said he has a hard time with it because, "It doesn't work like my other polishes!" I told him to work it twice as long as he would, say, DACP or any 3M product, which he did and now he can see the benefit and results of the product.



Products like IP or DACP may cut faster than Optimum Polish but I believe the Opt. will give better results with a longer working time and less time spent in clean up.



Hope you like the product and if I can be of any further help please let me know.



Anthony



this brings up a good point, i used it when i did that viper and i did notice it didnt remove any marring, the hood had been painted a while back and you could see the scratches you usually get after using a wool pad. Anyway i used it with an orange pad@1400rpms and it didnt do much. But my pads are getting dull so i may need new ones. I think it did leave a great shine and clean up was a breeze not like IP staining trim. But ill give it another go when i go do some more vipers :D
 
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