How often to apply Aerospace 303?

bennylava

New member
I got the aerospace 303 protectant. The one that always has a pic of a boat on the front label. I know a lot of you guys around here use this stuff, and I wanted to ask if you know how often it should be used. Once per year? Every 6 months?

I know exactly how to use it, looked it up on their site. Just don`t know how often it should be used.
 
Benny -

I would stick with regular H20 - water, or just a light interior cleaner...
303 will be okay, however it adds some sheen if you`re into that.

Also the UV properties will add a touch of *film* which just means more glass cleaning....

Modern windshields have UV protection film in them already so no need for that sorta stuff IMO. Less is more in this scenario
 
Well to clarify, my question was more along the lines of `for me`. My own personal vehicles, and my boat. Don`t know how often I should put more on. Don`t know when the UV has finally had its way with the protectant, and more should be applied.
 
Kinda depends how you want your dash to look. Once every couple months is probably fine for protection, but if you want that "just dressed" look, you`ll need to do it more often.
 
I stopped using it on boat seats as it is water based and seemed to be gone the first time it got wet or even after I wiped seats off from morning dew it seemed to go back to looking sad and dull. I dont like wet shine but I do like healthy glow (darkening effect) from my seats and my plastics, Now I use Wolfgang Cockpit and trim sealant. Wolfgang dries in under an hour and once it does I get 3-6 months depending on how much physical wear that surface gets (seat bottom where my fat butt slides in and out daily wears quickest). Looks fresh feels slick cleans easily, Also on boat seats I love it because water seems to have zero effect on its appearance, 303 used aggravate me because if you got few drops water on the door panel from opening the window it would make water spots where it seemed to have diluted or removed the product even after you dried it it would look like a water spot on paint.
 
I stopped using it on boat seats as it is water based and seemed to be gone the first time it got wet or even after I wiped seats off from morning dew it seemed to go back to looking sad and dull. I dont like wet shine but I do like healthy glow (darkening effect) from my seats and my plastics, Now I use Wolfgang Cockpit and trim sealant. Wolfgang dries in under an hour and once it does I get 3-6 months depending on how much physical wear that surface gets (seat bottom where my fat butt slides in and out daily wears quickest). Looks fresh feels slick cleans easily, Also on boat seats I love it because water seems to have zero effect on its appearance, 303 used aggravate me because if you got few drops water on the door panel from opening the window it would make water spots where it seemed to have diluted or removed the product even after you dried it it would look like a water spot on paint.


Read this:


"Over the last few months I have noticed quite a number of comments from folks who say they have used 303 aerospace protectant and it seemed to wash off onto their paint when it got rained on or exposed to other water sources. I have also responded to a couple of threads discussing the off gassing effects of plastics and the haze that owners` have experienced on the inside of windows. I really had not experienced these problems with my Miata and just had to know what might be causing others to have difficulty. Therefore, I picked up the phone, called the 303 Products people, and asked them whether or not the stuff runs off onto the paint when it gets wet. In addition to hearing it from the source, I also got a bunch of information that made sense about the “getting wet and running on the paint” as well as the “off-gassing inside the windows.” I am going to use the 303 Aerospace protectant the way Roger Dyer of 303 Products suggested in the future.

He politely suggested that I read the instructions on the 303 product container very carefully and follow the directions (which I haven’t done since I bought the gallon jug). If I had read the directions I would have found out that:

1) The 303 should be sprayed on the surface being treated. Yes! Sprayed on!! Like with a shield in one hand to keep the spray off other parts of the vehicle. Alternatively, like with a completely saturated cloth that is dripping wet with 303. But NOT sprayed onto a fine white 100% American made towel and then wiped onto the surface in nice rotating movements! It gets sprayed on, and if you like, it can be moved around and into the surface you are working on with your fingers! That`s recommended too! Especially if you are treating a dash and do not want that spray all over the inside of the windows. I made a shield out of an old sun protector just for this use.

2) Once you got it on the top, dash, or whatever, now the second part that I did not understand needs to happen. Take one of those fine white towels and start getting the excess off the top or the dash or whatever. This stuff actually wants you to towel it and buff it until the dash or top is completely dry! It really needs for you to remove those annoying "unbonded polymers" completely. If you do not, as this is a water-based product to start with, you will indeed wash those unbonded polymers right down onto your paint job. A trick Roger told me to make sure you have gotten the surface dry is to get down real close, look across the surface at an angle, put your fingertip on the vinyl, and twist it a bit. If it leaves a smudge or you can still see the finger mark when you lift the finger, it is not dry enough. Bring out another one of those white towels and keep working until it is COMPLETELY dry! This stuff likes being
buffed! The chemical work was done when you correctly applied it to the surface. Now it wants all the excess gone!

If you follow the manufacturer`s instructions and do these simple steps above, he tells me that you will not have any run-off onto the paint surfaces and it will reduce the off-gassing of the plastics onto the inside of your glass windows. I never used any of the more popular silicone-based vinyl care products on Cartman, so I did not face trying to get the old stuff off. Mr. Dyer suggests that if you start by wiping off the old stuff as much as you can and then spray on the 303 and do the mush it in with the fingers trick, that after a few months it may help reverse what the silicone stuff had started."

[This message has been edited by dr_eggs (edited 10 August)
 
Kinda depends how you want your dash to look. Once every couple months is probably fine for protection, but if you want that "just dressed" look, you`ll need to do it more often.



So it doesn`t last for 6 months or a year. It will only protect for 2 or 3 months
 
Might switch to wolfgang, as trashman suggested. Anybody else want to weigh in on that? Since the 303 generally only lasts 3 months.
 
bennylava- What are you using it on/for?

Just wondered, I`m no 303 expert, mine just sits on the shelf as I basically have no use for it.
 
bennylava- What are you using it on/for?

Just wondered, I`m no 303 expert, mine just sits on the shelf as I basically have no use for it.

Well mainly my boat. I have a newer pontoon boat, and I`m trying to keep all the rubber and plastics in good shape. It has a custom cover, but still much of it sits in the sun all day. And, they do show a boat on the front of the bottle lol. But I`ll also use it on my personal vehicles as well. 1987 Silverado, 2009 Toyota Yaris. But of course, it will be used on the interiors of the automobiles, and on the interior and exterior of the boat.
 
bennylava- Ah, OK...that "boat in the sun" sounds like a sensible application, and since you`ll have it on-hand for that anyhow....I just knee-jerk about how so many people think they need UV protection for the interiors of their cars when IMO it`s hardly ever necessary.
 
bennylava- What are you using it on/for?

Just wondered, I`m no 303 expert, mine just sits on the shelf as I basically have no use for it.

I apply it to my black plastic trim - the stuff that fades to gray after a few years. It makes the trim look new/good for about 2-3 weeks until I wash again. Should I use something else? I also apply it to my headlights and taillights, it keeps them looking shiny. I`ve never have any run off problems
 
Mic757- On exterior surfaces I use something like OCW instead of dressings. Only dress my tires, nothing else on the exterior.
 
Mic575- I`m generally backing off from telling people they oughta change their ways and do things my way, but LSPing my exterior trim/rubber/etc. has worked out incredibly well for me. Looks great, stays in good condition, absolutely zero downside and no issues with dressings running in the rain or needing redone regularly. People warned me that using LSPs on such surfaces would mess them up but I`ve been waxing the rubber on my Jag since the early `90s and it`s still in showroom-new condition (so is the stuff on the Audis/etc. but they`re not quite so old). Only trick is to avoid using stuff that "dries white" and to buff off all such stuff (845 maybe excepted but I do it with that too) before it flashes to avoid excess drying in the texture/pores/etc.
 
Mic575- I`m generally backing off from telling people they oughta change their ways and do things my way, but LSPing my exterior trim/rubber/etc. has worked out incredibly well for me. Looks great, stays in good condition, absolutely zero downside and no issues with dressings running in the rain or needing redone regularly. People warned me that using LSPs on such surfaces would mess them up but I`ve been waxing the rubber on my Jag since the early `90s and it`s still in showroom-new condition (so is the stuff on the Audis/etc. but they`re not quite so old). Only trick is to avoid using stuff that "dries white" and to buff off all such stuff (845 maybe excepted but I do it with that too) before it flashes to avoid excess drying in the texture/pores/etc.

I agree to a point on LSPs for exterior trim. I tried Optimum Opti-Seal on my Mazda truck bumper. I thought "can`t got wrong, it`s clear". Oops, it turned the bumper a white-ish gray color. Now I`ve got to strip it off. Do a test spot and let it dry before doing all you trim with an LSP. Learn from my mistake.
 
rlmccarty2000- Yikes, that sounds like a PIA! I`ve never used the Opti-Seal...did you let it dry before buffing it off?

The utterly foolproof LSP-on-trim approach is a spraywax like M156/UQW or OCW, the two leave slightly different levels of sheen but neither has *ever* caused issues for me. 845 is close..it`s Accumulator-proof but not idiot-proof ;)
 
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