How Necessary is Buffer?

H

highspeeddata

New member
My brand new Acura bumper now has 3 chips (about 1/8" wide by .5" long) down to the black plastic and a 6" by 6" area where the bumper rubbed that has a bunch of straight hairline scratched that I can barely feel with my finger nail. I've tried Meguiars #2 Fine Cut cleaner (by hand) and it doesn't take the scratches out.



I'm planning on touching up the chips, leveling with 1500 grit wet sanding, compounding the chips and scratches with 3-M Perfect-It II, then polishing with 3M Swirl Remover for Dark cars. (wish me luck).



My question is related to this particular situation but also making future repairs to the paint finish as necessary.



I have been reading all the information on this site and I am a bit confused about the necessity for using a power buffer, orbital or otherwise. The prime example of repairing a scratch shown on this site (with the black Porsche) was done totally by hand and the author also advocates hand polishing over using a machine. The main reason for a machine (which pros use) is that it takes much less time. However I thought I read that only a buffer can heat the clear coat up enough to effectively repair this kind of stuff and that the random orbital buffers will not do this, only direct drive, which is not safe to use by an amateur.



1st Q) Is there any big advantage to using the Porter Cable Ultimate Detail Machine in trying to repair just a small area or is hand compounding and polishing going to be just as effective with a little elbow grease?



Since I have a dark car, I imagine once a year I polish out the swirl marks and spider webs. I'm assuming 3M SMR for dark cars would be the best choice. I use Klasse Sealant Glaze to finish. It would be nice to save some time using a machine, but at only once a year, maybe the workout by hand would be good for me? :)



2nd Q) I have one of those big 10" random orbital polishers (the onces that just kind of jiggle around and don't spin fast like the Porter Cable) they sell in Schucks. Would one of those effecitively apply SMR and Klasse SG (with a foam bonnet) assuming there are just very light swirl marks and spider webs? Or, should I stick to hand application (with back and forth motion) or a PC Detail Machine? The PC really only seems beneficial to people that detail A LOT.



3rd Q) I think I've read in some posts that certain polishes are not "compatible" with the Klasse polymers and make it difficult for them to bond. Is 3-M SMR one of those? If so, what is an alernative for removing swirls before applying Klasse?



Thanks
 
Hey JC my .02 on this is that the PC is really an excellent tool for bringing older, swirled or neglegted finishs back to showroom condition (actually I think we all strive for even better than showroom shine). It is also a real labor saver especially for working on larger cars and trucks. For new paint or small isolated paint blems you can achieve about the same results by hand.



The PC will only spin rotationally when it doesn't have a load on it. Since you start and stop the machine while it is in contact with the paint the polishing head won't spin. What it will do is vibrate around in an a random eliptical orbit.



It works excellent for applying compounds and SMR and AIO. However now that I have applied SG both by hand and machine I recommend applying it by hand with a MF applicator if possible.
 
I polished my car yesterday (finished today) and I don't think I would be done by next weekend if not for the Porter Cable! And my paint was in pretty good condition. I Finnessed the hood twic, after noting that SMR did not do much. I then did a few very small areas with 3m Fine Cut by hand. Then finished by doing Blackfire Polish over the entire car. I even used a terry MF on the PC to remove BF Protectant. I doubt that I would have gotten the kind of results I did if not for the PC. Either I would be in the hospital, or I would be finished some time next year! I am seriously thinking about learning more about a rotary, but until then, the PC is the best thing.



H :up
 
I have both a Porter Cable 7424 and a Makita 9227c Rotarty Buffer. I have to say that if your looking to save some time, and not wear yourself out, then you can't beat a rotary buffer. I find myself using the PC for polish/glaze or wax if using wax based protection.



I also use the 3m SMR for "dark" colors and it is great. I use it in conjunction with the rotary buffer. If I need just a bit more cutting power, I go with the 3M Perfect-IT II product. I'll use a cutting pad with this product at about 1200 RPM's.



Porter Cables are very good, but will not get your finish like new, unless it was not bad off to begin with. I have yet to see any of my friends or myself for that matter really be able to cut swirls or micro-scratches with the PC.



I'll end with this. If you have to choose between doing a finish job by hand or by orbital, then go with the orbital. If you can afford a rotary, then go for that first and get the correct pads for each of your products. One for cutting, one for buffing (SMR would use this type of pad) and one for finishing (waxing or polishing).



I suggest the following pads regardless of what type of machine you get:



Meguiar's Softbuff pads:



Cutting pad #W-7006

Buffing pad #W-8006

Finishing pad #W-9006



Above pads are Velcro backed for quick change.



Hope this helps...
 
That just what I didn't want to hear. Or maybe it was what I wanted to hear... but I didn't want to hear it. I dunno....



But what you just posted makes total sense to me. My new PC is a wonderful step-up from a big orbital buffer. But it doesn't generate the kind of polishing & cutting power needed to bring back dulled paint or remove scratches. I've been using my PC with FI2 and both yellow and white pads on my car. But nothing can seem to remove the more serious scratches. They're only noticeable up close and under flourescent light, but they are there and the PC ain't getting it done.



So it looks like a Makita or DeWalt is in my future. Thanks for the details on pads; I was wondering exactly what to buy.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by bretfraz [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>That just what I didn't want to hear. Or maybe it was what I wanted to hear... but I didn't want to hear it. I dunno....

But what you just posted makes total sense to me. My new PC is a wonderful step-up from a big orbital buffer. But it doesn't generate the kind of polishing & cutting power needed to bring back dulled paint or remove scratches. I've been using my PC with FI2 and both yellow and white pads on my car. But nothing can seem to remove the more serious scratches. They're only noticeable up close and under flourescent light, but they are there and the PC ain't getting it done.

So it looks like a Makita or DeWalt is in my future. Thanks for the details on pads; I was wondering exactly what to buy. [/b]</blockquote>
The PC is a great little tool to speed up the process of feeding the paint with a really good polish and then applying a wax. I feel your pain. I was so excited to get my PC and after just one panel on the 4Runner (which is dark blue) it was clear I needed to face my fears and learn to use a rotary buffer. Even on some of the scratches you can't feel, you need to apply Perfect-IT II two or three times and just go back and forth over the scratch. But it's gone and the surface is perfect!
 
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