How many steps do you do?

Bobcat

Bobcat

New member
OK, assuming this is a car with dead paint, swirls etc. - after you wash,dry and clay, the standard compound, polish and wax takes on many steps. I've heard you should just do the three basics and my WG products kinda support that - swirl remover, glaze, and sealer. BUT, then I watched those videos from Autogeek and you have strong polish, weak polish, glaze, wax and you're done. OR do you compound, use AIO then wax. I haven't been this confused since I tried to do my own taxes. Opinions welcomed!
 
No two cars or details are the same and there is not a set answer. You have to do whatever the job calls for and it may require one pass per type of polish or many passes. The degree of shine that you desire will also be part of the equation... :)
 
A car that has lots of probems will most likely need a stronger polish like SSR2.5, then a weaker one like SSR1, then your LSP (wax or sealant).
 
As Steve (Poorboy) said, there is not just one answer. You have to think about the overall condition, products being used, as well as the machine being used. I usually find myself doing 1-2 polish steps, rarely do I need to introduce a third step (I don't see many cars with a lot of damage, I'd like to though)
 
Let me try to be more specific, if you're using a PC, not a rotary and the car is over 5 years old with swirls, water spots and oxidation. After you wash, dry and clay - can you just compound and polish? Basically I'm wanting to do two steps, two products and then use a sealer. Is this something that would reguire a rotary for the compound step? I understand that there is a limit to the thickness of paint - that's why I'm concerned about rubbing the paint off with so many products and steps!
 
Hopefully there isn't a need for a compound yet. Do a two step right and then maintain it so you won't have to keep doing it very often.
 
You can do a lot with the PC and the right products, even with older neglected paint.
I have never used anything more abrasive than PB SSR 2.5 or Meg's #83 DACP and the paint has to be fairly bad to need those.
In most cases, SSR2 or Meg's #80 will do the job. I used to use Meg's #9, but I have gotten away from it.
On all the vehicles I have worked on, I could go right to a LSP from any of those. From what I have read, that is not always the case. If you have some haze left after the DACP or the SSR2.5, then that is where you might need another step.
If I am using a sealant, I follow the swirl remover product with Klasse AIO and then apply the sealant. If it is on my own vehicles, I would follow the swirl remover with Klasse AIO prior to a wax as well.
If I'm doing a freebie for a friend, I use Meg's #80 followed by Meg's NXT Tech Wax and then send the bottle of NXT home with them. (They pay for it)
As has been mentioned, keeping the finish up is a lot easier than restoring it. I usually use a swirl remover 1 or 2 times a year, Klasse AIO about every 3 to 4 months and recently 4 Star UPP or Collinite IW about every 4 to 6 weeks.
It probably is more than necessary, but it is my hobby and doesn't have to make any sense.:)

Charles
 
Thanks CharlesW, It's starting to make more sense now. I was on the fence as to sealers vs wax and having used WG sealer on my wife's van and my RAV4 - I went back over mine with Natty's Blue, I can't tell much difference. But, the WG sure was easier to use. SOOOOOOOOOOO, unless somebody has to have wax, it will be sealer. I want to do a car every Saturday to help with the bills, that's why I wondered about all these steps. I think the best is to do what's needed and not to go through every bottle on the shelf just because you have it. Oh, and I realize I wasn't working the polishes thoroughly enough with the PC.
 
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