How does clear powdercoat on powdercoat 'work'?

E

efnfast

New member
If you have a panel that has been powdercoated and then clear powdercoated ontop of it (i.e., so not sprayed on, powercoated on), how tough is the clearcoat? For example, if I let it sit in my garage for 2mths, then wiped it down with a damp paper towel, will it show micro-marring?



Can it be polished just like regular clearcoat? (I assume so since you can polish powdercoat just like paint)....assuming it can be polished, I assume the thickness is a lot, because powdercoat is thick?
 
The point is, it's plastic, so just like your tractor hood, it may be tough to marr, but it will also be tough to get out. The "cure" time is irrelevant, it's "cured" as soon as it cools off. They electrostatically attract the plastic powder to the object (I'm talking about real powdercoat, not the stuff from Eastwood that you do in your oven), the way copier toner is attracted to paper, then it's melted on.



Powder coating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
I wouldn't use the tractor as a comparisson myself.



For example, with the tractor, let's say the hood is covered in dirt. If I rub my hand vigorously on it, then wash it, I'll find tonnes of micromarring (just like a vehicle; except this is much harder to get out)



However, with powdercoated panels (e.g., powdercoated silver vein with no clearcoat on it), I can get it filthy, rub my hand, and no micromarring. Of course I would just leave it like this, however i found that if you powdercoat and don't clearcoat it, it can get chaulky when exposed to sun, and if you rub too vigorosly with water, you can streak the panel. So since I need it cleared at the same time, I'm wondering if the clear powdercoat will have similar characteristics as a colored powdercoat like silver vein (i.e., be just as hard to mung up), or different. Should be similar, but you never know.....
 
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