How do I preform a CD test on a towel or brush

cshorey

New member
So after an hour or so of searching and reading old forum threads I keep reading about people referring to doing a CD test or suggesting a CD test, but I haven't seen a description of actually how to do it. Can someone enlighten me on this process. Feel free to just send me to a post that does it or if you can take a moment to explain it that would be awesome.



thanks,

chris
 
take a blank cd. rub the cloth that you are attempting to use on your vehicle on the blank cd. If it scratches etc, then dont use it. If it doesnt scratch or marr, then you're good to go.
 
cshorey said:
Which side of the CD? The data side or the label side (which has a lacquer coating)?



chris



doesnt have a lacquer coating the plastic is just really soft.
 
CD’s do have a lacquer coating. It’s on the label side, beneath the label, as cshorey pointed out. It’s there to protect the reflective coating.



Like LanceM said, the towel test is done on the read side, which is the clear, shiny side. It’s very smooth and it’s bare polycarbonate, which scratches fairly easily.





PC.
 
The important thing IMO is to test it like you use it. Try to simulate the actual conditions.



For a drying/buffing/etc. towel, that'd be dry- just fold the towel however you use it and apply the sort of pressure you would use for the given task. When testing a drying towel, I usually do actually dry a wet CD with it.



For wash media, it gets a little more complicated- I make sure the media being tested is thoroughly wet with wash solution, just as it would be when doing the wash, and I first dunk the CD in the wash solution. Again, apply the same sort of pressure you'd use when doing the job for real. Heh heh, a dry sheepskin mitt or BHB will mar something awful, but, with any luck, it'll be a different story when the shampoo mix is employed.



When testing brushes, try to test the *whole* brush. One nasty bristle, like the few bad ones I had on the TOL BHBs, can do a lot of damage and your test won't warn you if you don't test that section of the brush.



Inspect BHBs for adhesive contamination of the bristles. And if the adhesive covers a significant portion of the bristles (down by the handle), keep an eye on it as it can break loose over time and deposit hard adhesive throughout the bristles....and that stuff can seriously mar automotive paint (gee, as how I know :o ).



I find that (per usual) I can best inspect the CD under incandescent light, and I use a magnifying visor too, which is great for all sorts of things...
 
Thanks everyone. One final question. Does the type of CD matter? CD vs DVD? writable vs production (ie stamped)? Also for writable, does it have to be blank or is used (burned) media ok to use?



I think I have a pile of brand new still in packaging CD's that I probably will never use, so I will go through these first. Just curious if I could also use bad burns and what not (ie DVD's).



thanks,

chris
 
Why do you think it would matter if they are burned or not ? A CD test is not a rocket science.

Burned or not, it doesn't matter as far as i know. Don't make it so complicated.



Not trying to be rude :xyxthumbs
 
.VorteX. said:
Why do you think it would matter if they are burned or not ? A CD test is not a rocket science.

Burned or not, it doesn't matter as far as i know. Don't make it so complicated.



I can't help but make is to complicated, I do validation for a living and details and assumptions are what kill you. I didn't think it mattered until the first reply to this thread specified a blank CD. I was just trying to clarify.



.VorteX. said:
Not trying to be rude :xyxthumbs



No worries...



chris
 
cshorey said:
I can't help but make is to complicated, I do validation for a living and details and assumptions are what kill you. I didn't think it mattered until the first reply to this thread specified a blank CD. I was just trying to clarify.





chris



You are right about that. Better safe than sorry.



:hifive:
 
cshorey said:
I can't help but make is to complicated, I do validation for a living and details and assumptions are what kill you. ...
Hehe. I have to respect you for trying, but validation isn’t something you’re going to find much of in the world.



Realistically, the CD test is only a rough, qualitative estimate. There are too many variables involved. Try to be as consistent as you can with your technique and don’t consider it any more than a rough indicator.



The standards for disks only specify that they be polycarbonate. There’s no consistency from one manufacturer to another over which brand, formulation or process is used. And “scratchability� isn’t a specified or controlled characteristic so there’s no way of knowing how it will change form one disk to the next.



Writing to a disk doesn’t change how it scratches but does affect how easy it is for you to visually inspect the results. Ideally, you’d want a completely consistent disk, either blank or filled but a partially written disk is ok if you look carefully.





PC.
 
the other pc said:
Hehe. I have to respect you for trying, but validation isn’t something you’re going to find much of in the world.



I work in the PC industry doing validation and been doing it over 7 years now. Its not the easiest job and very under appreciated... We always, sadly, joke that we are damned if we do or damned if we don't (find issues).





Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I have an opportunity to get towels from a distributor and will probably not get much info about them. So far I am told they have tons of different kinds and sizes. Before I consider using these towels I wanted to be able to do a test to see if its worth my trouble.



chris
 
cshorey said:
Thanks everyone. One final question. Does the type of CD matter? CD vs DVD? writable vs production (ie stamped)?



I don't know enough about this to get specific, but *IIRC* somebody found that writable CDs were generally softer. If this is true (better not just take *my* word for it!) it could be another means of erring on the side of caution.



I've just used the freebie CDs that I keep getting in the mail- hardly a controlled testing media! -and I've never had any unpleasant surprises where something passed the CD-test but still marred the paint. But I don't have any of those stupid-soft clearcoats either.



Oh, and remember to retest periodically; my beloved, oldest BHB still *felt* nice and soft but after I found marring on the S8 I tested it and, sure enough, it wasn't as gentle as my other, newer BHBs. The test told me something that I couldn't discern just by feeling the different BHBs on my skin, the old one still *felt* great.



Is the CD-test perfect? Hardly, but it's easy enough to do, and better than anyting else I've run across. And a *lot* better than not testing at all.
 
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