How abrasive is the Optimum polish?

zimmerDN

New member
I just ordered a PC and some Optimum polish to be used on a black car. This car is only 1 year old but has lots of scratches from washing. The color black makes everything worse and it's looking hazy. Do you guys think Optimum would be abrasive enough for the job? Also is this a wax ready polish? Meaning that do I have to step down to #80 as a final polish before waxing? :think:



Thanks in advance. :dance
 
I just ordered a PC and some Optimum polish to be used on a black car. This car is only 1 year old but has lots of scratches from washing. The color black makes everything worse and it's looking hazy. Do you guys think Optimum would be abrasive enough for the job? Also is this a wax ready polish? Meaning that do I have to step down to #80 as a final polish before waxing? :think:



Thanks in advance. :dance
 
Regular Optimum will leave a wax (LSP) ready finish. As far as it being abrasive enough for what you are wanting to remove, that can only be determined by trying. Keep in mind that Optimum Polish wasn't designed to be able to remove major defects, which is why they came out with Optimum Compound.....if it's available yet, not sure. Regardless, you won't need an additional polish behind Optimum, but you may need something stronger before it. Post some pics of your car, and maybe we can help a little better.
 
Regular Optimum will leave a wax (LSP) ready finish. As far as it being abrasive enough for what you are wanting to remove, that can only be determined by trying. Keep in mind that Optimum Polish wasn't designed to be able to remove major defects, which is why they came out with Optimum Compound.....if it's available yet, not sure. Regardless, you won't need an additional polish behind Optimum, but you may need something stronger before it. Post some pics of your car, and maybe we can help a little better.
 
I used it on my less than year old Brilliant Black A4 and the results were superb. I use a rotary however.



OCC is available and I got a sample from the manufacuter but haven't had much testing w/it yet. It takes the abrasiveness of the line to 1200 grit scratch removal.



I agree with JDookie in that you won't need anything behind it but maybe up front depending on the severity of the probelm(s). Someone here has reported amazing results using a Meg's maroon pad on a PC w/OCP.
 
I used it on my less than year old Brilliant Black A4 and the results were superb. I use a rotary however.



OCC is available and I got a sample from the manufacuter but haven't had much testing w/it yet. It takes the abrasiveness of the line to 1200 grit scratch removal.



I agree with JDookie in that you won't need anything behind it but maybe up front depending on the severity of the probelm(s). Someone here has reported amazing results using a Meg's maroon pad on a PC w/OCP.
 
You can notch up the aggressiveness of Optimum by using a cutting pad, which IMO, makes it as effective (or maybe a touch more) as Meguiars DACP or Poorboy's SSR2.5. Then switch to a polishing pad and Optimum and then your LSP. One product, two pads. Pretty efficient if you ask me. :)
 
You can notch up the aggressiveness of Optimum by using a cutting pad, which IMO, makes it as effective (or maybe a touch more) as Meguiars DACP or Poorboy's SSR2.5. Then switch to a polishing pad and Optimum and then your LSP. One product, two pads. Pretty efficient if you ask me. :)
 
Scottwax said:
You can notch up the aggressiveness of Optimum by using a cutting pad, which IMO, makes it as effective (or maybe a touch more) as Meguiars DACP or Poorboy's SSR2.5.



Ok good. I had a feeling that the defects on this car can be taken care of with SSR 2.5 and Optimum has the ability to perform just as good as SSR then I should be ok. I have 2 sets of the Sonus Das pad kit (orange blue green). That's plenty to try.



It would make sense to start with the green pad right and move to orange if needed? Then after optimum, I plan to apply WF prewax cleaner (WF sealant after). Do you guys think the cleaner wax is necessary at all (does it really help the wax bond even after the polish)? :think: If so, the blue pad should be used right?
 
Scottwax said:
You can notch up the aggressiveness of Optimum by using a cutting pad, which IMO, makes it as effective (or maybe a touch more) as Meguiars DACP or Poorboy's SSR2.5.



Ok good. I had a feeling that the defects on this car can be taken care of with SSR 2.5 and Optimum has the ability to perform just as good as SSR then I should be ok. I have 2 sets of the Sonus Das pad kit (orange blue green). That's plenty to try.



It would make sense to start with the green pad right and move to orange if needed? Then after optimum, I plan to apply WF prewax cleaner (WF sealant after). Do you guys think the cleaner wax is necessary at all (does it really help the wax bond even after the polish)? :think: If so, the blue pad should be used right?
 
I'd stay away from Cleaner wax. Your going to be polishing first so there is nothing for the wax to clean.



If your referring to using the WF Prewax Cleaner after polishing it can't hurt. Not sure about the claims of bonding but any prewax cleaner should remove any residue left from the polishing so as to prevent streaking when you wax/seal.
 
I'd stay away from Cleaner wax. Your going to be polishing first so there is nothing for the wax to clean.



If your referring to using the WF Prewax Cleaner after polishing it can't hurt. Not sure about the claims of bonding but any prewax cleaner should remove any residue left from the polishing so as to prevent streaking when you wax/seal.
 
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