Help with Problem!!

B

Brady

New member
Hey all - I need advise. I've tried removing the spots (see attached) from the wife's Subi using the following products, in this order, over the past three weekends:



1Z Metallic Polish

1Z Paint Polish

P21S Cleansing Lotion

Meguiar's Medallion



Yesterday was Meguiar's Medallion using the Sonus Orange DAS pad (chewed that thing up to where the Velcro pulled away from the pad). Nothing has worked. I worked that polish in over and over and over. Kept applying product as well. Still not the result I was looking for and have yet to find something that will remove those spots!



My next ( and last) purchase is Menzerna Intensive Polish but want some opinions if this will even do the trick? Will I need to resort to compounding (which I really donâ€â„¢t want to do)?



Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

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http://autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10743&papass=&sort=1
 
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Thank you.
 
I'd love to help, but it is quite difficult w/o actually seeing the paint. You haven't been very aggressive with the products you've mentioned, and the water/mineral deposits *can* be quite deep.



Me? My next step would be Meg's #83 DACP with a yellow polishing pad/PC/#5. Most would consider that to be a safe step...



Good Luck!



Jim
 
It's pretty hard to see from the photo but it looks like you have some pretty deep etching. It could be removed through compounding but would more than likely be better removed with wet sanding. I would suggest if you have no experience with this that you find a qualified professional to fix the problem as it is really easy to mess that type of repair up if you don't know what you are doing.
 
Yeah, I can't see the pics either.



Generally, if the PP isn't strong enough I'd go with 1Z Ultra/Extra. But note that this will cause micromarring which you'll have to use PP to correct.



I'm not surprised that MP/Medallion/P21S GEPC didn't work, those are way too mild to do any actual correction on Subie clear.



When I had similar problems with my WRX (two dealer-installed scratches), I usually used either the above 1Z Ultra then PP or else 3M PI-III RC (05933) until the marring is gone and then PI-III MG (05937). The 05933 was just barely strong enough for this, and I'd have to work it many times. The 1Z route is faster and easier IMO.



Can't say about the IP, haven't tried it.



Subaru clear is fairly tough so you have to use an aggressive product to remove anything significant. But FWIW, I've hear that the clear on some Subie colors is harder/softer than that on others :nixweiss The clear on white and silver seemed hard to me, not Audi-hard (or even Mazda-hard) but hard enough that mild solutions wouldn't solve serious problems.
 
I posted on the other thread, assuming you were talking about a scratch. Still, check it out as I comment on the products you've used.



I can't really see what the problem is, must need to recalibrate my monitor. Sounds like acid-rain etching.



IMO you're better off living with that sort of problem as opposed to thinning the clear by wetsanding or using an aggressive product (which should be done with a rotary anyhow). Subie clear is pretty tough, but it's not very thick.



I tried to remove acid-rain etching from a burgundy Outback via PC. Didn't happen, and I spent a *lot* of time on it with aggressive products. Couldn't fix it with the Cyclo either; no way to take off that much clear without a rotary, but maybe the burgundy Outback was worse than what you're dealing with.
 
Tort - thanks for merging.



Accumulator - thanks for the information. Not sure what to do at this point. I know the pictures stink but it's the best I could do with artificial light. Thought it would be best, though, because I just put a bunch of fluorescents up in the garage and boy do those ever show imperfections!



I'm pretty sure it's either acid rain or some sort of marring from tree sap. I've neglected the wife's car for so long that I'm now paying the price. My Jeep (Rubi) looks like a million bucks next to her car.



Maybe I'll go with your suggestion on the 1Z Ultra (assuming Dave isnâ€â„¢t all sold out). Should I try applying with the PC or by hand? Also, I've been looking at Dave's SFX Pad (as opposed to the DA Foam Pads). I assume they're compatible with the PC? They look more stout and, according to the description, made better. I'm tearing the DA Foam up!



I'd hate to damage the hood and remove the clear but man it's driving me crazy! There's no way I'll wet sand, which my father-in-law actually suggested during his last visit. He's coming for Christmas and I know he'll try and convince me!
 
Sure, you can use the SFX pads if you like. I haven't tried them yet, but are supposed to be an updated version of the DAS pads and were designed specifically to be used with Sonus SFX polishes but can be used with anything.



I'd definitely recommend using a PC for polishing, but by hand will still do a good job, just a lot more work.
 
Brady- Yeah, you can use the Ultra by PC, but again, know when to say "when" ;)



Heh heh, I'd tell the f-in-law "thanks for the suggestion, do what you like with *your* car.." and then change the subject :D



Consider that you shouldn't really remove more clear than roughly the thickness of Saran Wrap. Look at how deep the etching is and you'll see why some problems are best lived with.
 
DACP and a Meguiars cutting pad did a great job on a pretty hopelessly water spot etched Civic I did this weekend. Didn't get it perfect (probably only wetsanding may) but the improvement was nothing short of amazing. I did have to go back over the hood with #80 and a polishing pad to remove some light marring.
 
Put an order in today for Ultra and all three SFX pads. Hopefully I'll get before Christmas. That'll give me an excuse t get out of the house and into my sanctuary that is the garage. In can take the in-laws for about 30-minutes before wanting to put my head through a wall. :wall
 
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