Help with my first PTG readings

also this is a club member and even though I offer deep discounts to club members because I'd rather they trust who they send their car to...he chose to bypass the local guy other members have used and trust me..which I really respect

he said "I've seen your car..its much older than mine..and it looks MUCH better than the BRAND new ones I've seen..i'd rather trust you and have my money stay in the club than send it to a guy who doesn't take his time to explain everything to us on the forum"

and that really meant a lot to me

I'm still very young in my trek to become professional grade...but building positive, long lasting relationships with clients is one of my favorite aspects of detailing
 
512detail said:
also this is a club member and even though I offer deep discounts to club members because I'd rather they trust who they send their car to...he chose to bypass the local guy other members have used and trust me..which I really respect

he said "I've seen your car..its much older than mine..and it looks MUCH better than the BRAND new ones I've seen..i'd rather trust you and have my money stay in the club than send it to a guy who doesn't take his time to explain everything to us on the forum"

and that really meant a lot to me

I'm still very young in my trek to become professional grade...but building positive, long lasting relationships with clients is one of my favorite aspects of detailing
Click to expand...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ YES !!!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^

Dan F
 
This black is a nightmare

Uhs pad was as deep as i wanted to go after testing numerous spots on the black roof and hood area.


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uhs system + essence on rupes yellow foam pad....still not autopia quality IMHO

Anywhere from 125 to 137 mil readings left but man i wouldn't feel comfortable going any deeper and subsequently i dont think coating the black is a good idea.

I think I'm going to call him and see if he wants to switch 2 black ice over fire.

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making due with crappy light setup till dark.. needed to get my several tests spots in on both different colors and pull into the sun before it sets.

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before

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Adapt and tangerine hydrotech pad slowly applied is working well. I can go deeper but uhs setup compared to this 50/50 left me in 117-122 mil #s. I dont want this new to them car that low.

.....
I just don't think the black will look good once it's coated.. it needs glaze sealant and wax to fill... maybe even black hole and several layers of ex then nattys black

I know it's more effort and I'm going to charge him less than I would for the initial quote but I think it's the best decision considering all the factors.

I had already discussed this potential possibility with him and he was okay with that he gave me x max dollars he was willing to spend and I gave him several options at and under that range.

Plus I think with the money he'll save I could talk him into placing an order for some real towels and a few other essentials he would need to keep this pumpkin pretty.

I'm going to do a couple more tests on the orange and then decide and give him a call.
 
I'm just afraid the black would look to swirled once the coating gets added.... I'd like the sacrificial layer idea on top of the low mil readings but I'm just not sure.
 
I see you have been doing your homework and putting some serious thought into this.

I'll echo the previous stated comment about microns being a much more helpful unit of measure.

It depends on the goals for your vehicle, and not being more aggressive than you have to be.

Now enough analysis! Get out there and use your new found knowledge!

Edit- I see you snuck in a post while I was replying. :)
I'd agree with you- try a glaze or a nice sealant/wax combo. I'm sure the owner will appreciate your caution.
 
craigdt said:
I see you have been doing your homework and putting some serious thought into this.

I'll echo the previous stated comment about microns being a much more helpful unit of measure.

It depends on the goals for your vehicle, and not being more aggressive than you have to be.

Now enough analysis! Get out there and use your new found knowledge!
Click to expand...
Yeah I tend to overthink things and I think that's what I enjoy about doing this there's so many combinations and variables everything is like some crazy equation... and the end result is aesthetically pleasing. I really enjoy that.

I'm glad I read that entire thread earlier about the Micron readings after cutting into the clear... all of the replies were essentially things I was wondering and needed more information on anyways.
 
You could probably do it good with the Hydro-Shred-Cyan Pad...
As you know, its more aggressive and still finishes down really nice...
I use them all the time with a Rotary, of course, and I can pretty much take anything out with that combo...
Have a load of Tangerine Hydro-Shreds as well, and they are never the 1st choice for me, but may come back afterwards if I cant get it all perfect with the Cyan...

It turned out great !
Dan F
 
FWIW - 120um is pretty healthy paint. Compounding even with a MF pad will probably only take off a um or 2.
 
mjlinane said:
FWIW - 120um is pretty healthy paint. Compounding even with a MF pad will probably only take off a um or 2.
Click to expand...

You'd be surprised how much can be removed. I think the Mr. 512Detail is referring to this thread in one of his earlier posts, which is why he is so concerned:

http://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing/183605-report-pics-showng-clearcoat-removed-machine-polishing.html?highlight=


My test shows that 7 microns were removed with Orange LC and M105 on "hard" Chevy clear coat.
 
As far as the glaze...i have xmt, pb, bf, #7 and probably something else or two in my sample size box....i went with gep + black ice on the fender and half of hood to see how it would end up looking and i like it.


Plus i have half a gallon of bf rw and can set him up with a big bottle.

He also agreed to take the money I'm not charging and let me select some products for him. I think its a win-win.

As far as the readings...the more I thought about it when polishing, I probably should have cut a little deeper but I guess all the reading got me scared.



Im going to go with black hole, ex then nattys black on the black paint.

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Gep+black ice. Will do another layer of black ice tomorrow morning.

I like the glow it puts on the orange

Just some deep marks remain.
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like these
 
To take that much, I need to be going really hard at it (Surbuf + M105). All of our techniques are different. Measure what you do. Still, they paint would have been very healthy even taking that much.

FWIW - one reason I like SMAT compounds is that I decide when I am done - no waiting for it to break down. Watch to get to the bottom of the swirls and stop the cutting and move to refining. Wear a headlamp to facilitate this. Also don't chase every RIDS. You get to know what is correctible and what isn't.

Leads me back to my Detailer's Prayer: Grant me to power tools to correct what I can, fillers to cover what I cannot, and the wisdom to know the difference.
 
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