Help with FK 1000p application/removal

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bcwang

New member
I need some tips for applying 1000p, applicator, method, wait time, etc...



For some reason, I am having a very hard time mastering the application of 1000p. Everyone here seems to think it's easier on and off than 476s by far. Yet, I've had no trouble applying 476s, and it's always been easy for me to remove even if I wait half an hour, or apply it very thick. But with 1000p, I've had nothing but trouble so far.



First, I tried with a microfiber towel folded so I'm working with a 1 inch square. It seems like if I try to put a little bit, it looks like it's applying for the first inch and then it seems to vanish, with the original area getting wiped clean. I've waited still to see if it'll haze but nothing so I think there is nothing. To get it past the point of rubbing nothing, I have to really get quite a lot on the microfiber. Then it applies fine, resembling 476s film. However, when I do it this way, I wait 15 minutes and then when it's time to take off it doesn't budge! I actually had to apply more 1000p to try to remove it.



I also used a foam applicator from pepboys, it seems to be easier to apply overall, but I think I ended up completely swirling my paint. Luckily I was only doing a test panel. I had used enough on the applicator so I could see the application. Taking it off seemed ok too so I thought foam pad was the answer. Except when I went and parked it in a structure with fluorescent lighting, it was scary seeing a bunch of swirls matching exactly the pattern of my application in circles. I was hoping it was just residue but it wouldn't wipe off. I decided to start over and swirlx'd the area and stick with microfiber for fear of the swirls. I think that pepboys foam pad may be too rough and swirled the paint. Either that or it's the 1000p that's doing something very weird. I may try to use a meguiars foam applicator which feels much softer.



So basically, I need to find out how to make 1000p easy to work with. Seems like many think it's very easy, especially compared to 476s. I have had nothing but trouble so far, and I've tried lots of different products and this is easily the most troublesome one I've got. It's the sample size if that makes any difference.
 
bcwang- I too am still working out of my little sample tin of FK1000P :D I use FK425 on my applicator and I sometimes even spritz in the tin itself.



I'd CD-test your application media.



FWIW, I don't think Fk1000P is as easy to apply as 476S by a long shot. I *do* however, find FK1000P buffs off very easily. If you're having problems maybe you're putting it on too thick (same ol' thing with sealants...). Maybe try fogging the surface with your breath before buffing it off, and if that doesn't work try spritzing it with FK425.



I bet that subsequent layers will go on/off a lot easier.
 
Likely I'm putting it on too thick. The problem is i can't seem to put it on thin unless it's supposed to be nearly invisible when on thin. 476s is easy to buff off for me even when applied thick. Yet it seems most think 1000p is easier to remove. I don't use any liquid on my applicator with either one, hoping to avoid it so there is no compromise of the chemical makeup of the thin layer.



good idea, I'll CD test my foam. I never thought they would make a foam applicator so rough that it would scratch paint.
 
the only applicator that works for me with the #1000 is the german one. Most vendors have them. Otherwise I apply it with my pc or my flex.
 
I too had troubles applying it. The hard part for me was actually getting it on to the applicator. Unlike most carnauba waxes that kind of "melt" when the applicator is pushed against it, it seemed fk1000p was "dry". The little area I did apply it to came off extrmely easy. I guess since I'm used to applying sealants thin it was no problem.



I just had such a hard time actually getting it on the applicator that I just gave up. I will be trying the fk425 method though
 
On paint, I apply 1000P with a PC, using an applicator to get the product onto the pad. It really doesn't take much to do a whole car. On wheels, I apply it by hand, lightly grazing the applicator against the solid mass in the can. Removal is not an issue.
 
You guys having success using a dry applicator, what kind of applicator are you using? Be specific if you can.
 
I used 1000p Saturday on my friends Pacifica. I used a red 4" flat LC pad with a polishing pal (Ithink that is what it is called). The 4" pad fits perfect in the tin, I put it in and spun it around a few times. I did not use anything to moisten the pad, usually I use 435 but some reason this tiem forgot. I left it on 40 minutes and it buffed off great usinga Shag Rag from Ragshack
 
When I use an applicator, I use MF, yellow Meg's foams, NXT foams, generic yellow Tesco (Costco equiv.) apps. Dry, without any spritzing.



When I apply 1000P with a machine, I just squeeze'n stuff a black pad into the tin, twist it a couple of times, slap it onto the machine and go. Again, dry, no spritzing with anything.
 
I use a regular foam applicator pad, dampen to start, swish it around the can, rub it on lightly (thin coat). No problems removing. Consistently easier to remove than 476.
 
bcwang said:
..good idea, I'll CD test my foam. I never thought they would make a foam applicator so rough that it would scratch paint.
Click to expand...



Along the lines of "test it like you use it" you might consider actually applying FK1000P with the applicator when you test it; the product provides some degree of lubrication. Just thinking out loud...but testing it "dry" would make for more stringent evaluation.
 
Tried the CD test and it seems like it doesn't scratch, except the sides of the pad the ridge brushed the CD and it left fine scratches. But the main foam part seems ok. So maybe what I thought were swirls were actually the sealant being left too thick and not being able to be rubbed off even though it was only visible under the HID lighting in the garage. I should have tried a QD wipe before polishing it all off, sigh!



Well, I decided to recommission one of my meguiars foam applicators which I only avoided now because I want to avoid cross contamination of products. This applicator works great with the 1000p dry, it is much smoother so slides more easily and I can apply it thinly without it drying up. The pores seem much tighter than my original applicator and this seems to keep the product on the surface which allows it to spread.



Whew, finally figured out what to apply 1000p with. Now I can start testing durability. Thanks for all the help everyone!
 
FJF said:
On paint, I apply 1000P with a PC, using an applicator to get the product onto the pad. It really doesn't take much to do a whole car. On wheels, I apply it by hand, lightly grazing the applicator against the solid mass in the can. Removal is not an issue.
Click to expand...



Same here.
 
bcwang- OK, sounds like you're on the right track. I hadn't given much thought to the differences in porosity between seemingly similar applicators, guess I just got lucky with the ones I have; they seem to work fine with everything.
 
Accumulator said:
bcwang- OK, sounds like you're on the right track. I hadn't given much thought to the differences in porosity between seemingly similar applicators, guess I just got lucky with the ones I have; they seem to work fine with everything.
Click to expand...



Yes, that's the last time I just buy a random foam applicator. I'll just stick with the known good stuff.



The problem I have is it's been a long time since I've seen foam applicators sold in local stores, kragens, walmart, target, pepboys, autozone, etc.... I happened upon this one at pepboys one day and had to buy it since I never see foam pads anymore. Too bad it sucked so bad.



I wonder why foam applicators are so hard to find these days. Maybe online is the only way to go but I'd like to inspect them closer now before trying something new.
 
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