Help with basic detailing needs

[camhabib]

I have a new Meteor Grey Porsche C4S that gets used on a regular basis. I typically try to clean it around once or twice a week, just to remove dust and minor surface contaminants (New England has it's fair share of dirt grime). I have a few products that I use to clean and maintain the car, but I'm looking for recommendations of possible replacements (running low on supplies). What I use right now:



Soap: 1Z Einszett Perls Shampoo

Wheel cleaner: P21s Wheel Gel

Wax / detailer: 1Z Einszett Spray Wax

Interior: 1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium

Leather: Lexol



I typically give the car a good rinse, gentle wash with soap, rinse again, dry by sheeting / evaporation (have soft water), and apply some wax to problem spots (areas that required heavy cleaning due to bugs, etc). I typically just wipe the interior down with a damp cloth, and lightly treat the plastic with the Cockpit premium and leather with the Lexol.



I'm looking for any recommendations for replacement products, a good wheel wax (dust is getting to be too much and troublesome to remove), or suggestions on how to better clean / care for my car. Nothing too involved or expensive, but don't want to skimp either. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Accumulator]

camhabib- Welcome to Autopia!



To be perfectly honest, your inquiry is a bit too broad...sorta like "I'm living in an apartment and would like to build a house...how should I go about it?" I'll try to hit some highpoints and I'll base my suggestions on my perception of what you're after. A lot of people here would make this a lot more complicated, but I want to offer something that you'll consider realistically doable.



First, I'll tease you a little about being the owner of a new C4S who says he doesn't want to spend much on detailing supplies :chuckle: NO offense intended and since I have bought Porsches and other such toys showroom-new I figure I'm allowed to joke about it OK, OK...getting to the real response here...



To wax/seal your wheels you'll have to really clean 'em up first. Then you apply multiple applications of sealant/wax (AKA Last Step Product, or "LSP"). Then you clean them with just car shampoo (wheel cleaner will also clean off the LSP), which means you need to do it before they get too nasty. I bet you'd end up doing more work for minimally better *potential* results.



While I do seal most of my wheels, on some I just stick with the wheel cleaner and IMO that's what's gonna work best for you overall. I'd just do them a little more often and follow up with a spritz of some good leaves-stuff-behind Quick Detailer ("QD") like FinishKare FK425 or FK146, which will provide a little help with regard to the brakedust being so tenacious. FWIW, that's what I did on most of my Porsches, the C4 included.



Additional thought- I bet your wheels do need a good, thorough cleaning, even if you're not gonna LSP them. See suggestions for all-in-one products a few paragraphs down under "Wax/etc.".



Washing- Nothing wrong with the Perls, though I prefer Griot's Car Wash over anything else. You could save money, and probably be just as satisfied, by switching to DuraGloss shampoo or even Meguiar's Gold Class. How To Wash is a very long article I haven't written yet (though there's an old version of my opinion around here somewhere entitled "Accumulator's Non-marring Wash Technique"). But it sounds like you're satisfied with your current wash regimen and that's what counts.



I would caution about the sheeting/evaporation drying though...even though I too have softened/filtered water, I can only get away with that when I use my CRS deionizer; even soft water leaves behind a light residue that I consider unacceptable. I'd do a light towel-dry after spritzing on a little FK425 or FK146 or even your spray wax. For the drying towels, I'd use the Ultra Soft Waffle Weave Drying Towels from Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing, Auto Detailing Supplies, Auto Detailing Equipment, Auto Detailing Products, & Auto Detailing Accessories for all your Automobile Detailing but there are other, similar, towels on the market.



Wax/etc: IMO you need something better than just the spray wax. I believe you need to first properly clean the paint and then apply a real LSP. The spray wax is more of a now-and-then touchup measure.



For the cleaning, I'd suggest an All-In-One product such as Klasse All In One, Zaino All In One, 1Z Metallic PolishWax, Griot's One Step Sealant, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish. All work fine by hand and are sorta like "super cleaner-waxes".



In your case I'd probably go with the Autoglym Super Resin Polish ("SRP").



Then I'd wax it with Collinite 845 Insulator wax, which is inexpensive, user-friendly, and durable. You'll love it.



THEN you can spruce it up with the spray wax after each wash. Heh heh, if you try the FK425/FK146 that I mentioned for the wheels, you might never go back to the 1Z Spray Wax



Interior: What you're doing now if fine except I'd replace the Lexol with something from Leather Masters, Sonus, or 1Z. These days I only use Lexol on stuff like leather dog leads; there are better products for the (factory coated) leather being used in cars.



Big thing is to get one of those all-in-one products and a good wax like the Collinite. Just do your sideview mirrors as a test and I'm confident you'll be convinced...I bet I could pretty much offer you a money-back guarantee with zero fear of having to honor it.

 

[camhabib]

Accumulator, thanks for taking the time with that response, very informative. When I said I didn't want to spend a lot, I really just meant I didn't want to spend $1k+ on a small jar of wax or anything crazy like that. I'm not comfortable taking any power tools or abrasive polishes to the finish, and rather leave the high end waxes and serious work to a professional detailer. Here is what I plan to do on the next detail based on your recommendations:



As far as wheels go, I am planning on removing them and treating with some Sonax Wheel Cleaner. Since there is a good amount of residual (baked on) dust, I plan to attack it with a clay bar. I'll pick up some FK425 which I will coat the wheels with after the cleaning.



For the exterior, I'm pretty happy with the Pearls, and have a rather large stock of it, so I'll stick with it for now. I've got the washing method down pretty well, and take extreme caution as to not scratch the finish (use a different mitt for each panel, etc). I do have a few ultra soft 100% cotton cloths which I will use to dry the remaining water with. After a wash and dry, I have an unopened bottle of 1Z Metallic Polish Wax, which I plan on using to clean the paint in prep for some wax. As far as wax goes, I have an unopened bottle of 1Z Glanz Wax, but I'm willing to take recommendations for anything else (I'll pick up some of the Collinite and try it out).



I'll pick up a bottle of the 1Z Lederpflege Leather cleaner and use that on the interior (I am unimpressed by Lexol to be honest) and continue to use the Stoners glass cleaner and 1Z Cockpit Premium.



As far as protection, do you recommend a dedicated sealant as well, or does the wax take care of this? Are there any steps I'm forgetting or changes I should make? Thanks again for everything.

 

[Hey Moe!]

First of all, I agree with everything Accumulator says. He is an invaluable resource around here. I have taken his advice to heart many times. If I ever buy a digital camera, I'll prove it to him.



I, too, would ditch the Lexol. There is better out there.



IMHO, the Collinite 845 will make you happy. It is easy to use, looks pretty doggone good, and has nice longevity. I use it on my Ford Focus, which has to grunt through winter when the BMW is stashed away. It comes through pretty well, still looking good. You could even top with a sealant if you feel the need. I really like 845 on my Liquid Gray Focus, which is not too far from Meteor Gray.



In your case, I gotta believe that the car gets some track time, and the 845 stands up pretty well to the junk you will pick up there.



If you can find Accumulator's wash technique, check it out. It is nonpareil, though be prepared to spend some time on it. I do a two-bucket wash with a grout sponge, and two hoses, one for the foam gun, and one to rinse, and I'm over an hour on the job. Also, careful drying with microfiber towels (lay 'em on, and pat dry). Accumulator is like Emeril--he kicks it up a notch.



I used Griot's Car wash for years, then stopped when I grabbed a cheap stash of Gold Class. It's not bad, but I'm ready to go back to Griot's. Do consider that when you run out of 1Z.



Enjoy the C4!

 

[Accumulator]

Hey, Moe!- Hope you're enjoying retirement (and that new BMW) :wavey



Sounds like your detailing is going well (ah, dedicated rinse/foamgun hoses :xyxthumbs ).

As far as wheels go, I am planning on removing them and treating with some Sonax Wheel Cleaner. Since there is a good amount of residual (baked on) dust, I plan to attack it with a clay bar. I'll pick up some FK425 which I will coat the wheels with after the cleaning..

Don't expect *too* much from the FK425; consider it like a spray wax. Just mentioning that as I saw the above use of "coat". Wonder what you'd think of a quickie job with that 1Z MP followed by Glanz :think: The Glanz "wax" is really a sealant so if you want to try that approach on your wheels....

.. I do have a few ultra soft 100% cotton cloths which I will use to dry the remaining water with.

I dunno if I'd use the cotton towels. I'm a bit of a towel snob (meaning that I know a bit about them and don't mind spending for good ones), and I wouldn't dry my vehicles with even my very best, softest, 100% cotton towels. Yeah, many of them would probably be soft enough, but I simply won't risk the chance of marring the finish now that high-quality MF towels are available. Heh heh, yeah...I know, we got by sorta-OK for a long time before MF came out, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.



You could try the "CD-test"- get the data side of a CD wet and dry it with the towel(s) in question. Then inspect under unforgiving lighting (not fluorescent ) and maybe even with magnification (I like 15x); if the CD is marred then don't use that towel on your paint.

I have an unopened bottle of 1Z Metallic Polish Wax, which I plan on using to clean the paint in prep for some wax. As far as wax goes, I have an unopened bottle of 1Z Glanz Wax, but I'm willing to take recommendations for anything else (I'll pick up some of the Collinite and try it out).

Aha, BINGO! That should work great. A lady friend of mine (smart, but with zero experience/knowledge/interest in detailing) used 1Z MP on her Lexus (by machine no less) with zero coaching/training/anything from anybody, and she was thrilled by how it turned out. Oughta work out the same for you.



Nothing wrong with the Glanz, but you do need to watch that its solvents don't strip off the stuff that the 1Z MP leaves behind. I dunno...I *think* I'd still go with the Collinite myself.

I'll pick up a bottle of the 1Z Lederpflege Leather cleaner and use that on the interior (I am unimpressed by Lexol to be honest) and continue to use the Stoners glass cleaner and 1Z Cockpit Premium.

OK, roger that, sounds good. But note that with today's leathers (at least while they're in like-new condition), often *nothing* really yields much in the way of an appreciable difference. Today's automotive leather just doesn't need much treatment IME.

As far as protection, do you recommend a dedicated sealant as well, or does the wax take care of this? Are there any steps I'm forgetting or changes I should make?

As long as you keep up with it, the Collinite/etc. should do fine. My wife's daily driver ('00 Audi A8) has only been waxed with regular, old-fashioned paste waxes since new and it's still in great shape.



Redo the wax as soon as something changes (beading, slickness, looks, anything that says "there's been a change for the worse"). Clean the paint with the 1Z MP maybe twice a year. Consider using a very mild clay (I recommend Sonus Green Ultra-fine Clay and their Glyde lubricant) now and then.



That oughta do it. No need for a sealant when you use a good wax on a regular basis.

 

[camhabib]

Thanks again for the replies. I'll treat the wheels with some of the 1Z Polish Wax and see how the 845 and FK425 do (perhaps test one on each wheel). I have heard some recommendations for RejeX as well as Swissvax Autobahn as far as wheels go, but don't know how much more protection they would offer. As far wax goes, I've also heard some great stuff about the P21s wax. Is it worth the extra premium over the 845? I'll also test the towels before using, and if they leave any signs of damage, I'll pick up the ones you recommend.

 

[Accumulator]

Thanks again for the replies. I'll treat the wheels with some of the 1Z Polish Wax and see how the 845 and FK425 do (perhaps test one on each wheel)...

The FK425 will need redone after every wash. The 845 will last for a while if you wash them with shampoo instead of wheel cleaner.



Oh, belated thought- there's a slightly different FK product, FK146, that cleans a little better and is another good choice for wheels. The other day I was thinking that in some ways I might like it at least as well as FK425. Yeah, I know..that's one awfully nebulous semi-recommendation, but it did come to mind.

I have heard some recommendations for RejeX as well as Swissvax Autobahn as far as wheels go, but don't know how much more protection they would offer.

Sorry, no experience with either of those. I have used FK1000P and (heavily layered) KSG with good results.

As far wax goes, I've also heard some great stuff about the P21s wax. Is it worth the extra premium over the 845?

I've only tried the "regular" P21s wax and I was sorely disappointed. Eh, I'd just stick with the 845, which I am, in fact, using on one of my vehicles (darkish/medium pearl blue '93 Audi) with complete satisfaction (note that I'm, uhm...rather particular and have a scad of different product to choose from).

I'll also test the towels before using, and if they leave any signs of damage, I'll pick up the ones you recommend.

If what you have are soft enough, that'd be swell. In some ways I prefer how cotton dries stuff compared to MF, it's just that marring issue...