Help! Strange spots on trunk lid

C

CosmosMpower

New member
I'm new here and drive a 2010 black Nissan GT-R. I washed my car today for the first time in a few weeks. I used this stuff my buddy gave me called Optimum No Rinse. It worked pretty well but when I got to the trunk I noticed some weird spots on the trunk lid. I thought they were just water spots so I did another pass and even broke out the hose and washed/rinsed but the spots look like they are under the clearcoat in the paint itself. They look like grey water spots that won't come off. The paint still feels glossy not like the clearcoat is eaten away or anything. Just looks like water or condensation almost trapped underneath the clearcoat. Nothing happens when you press down on the spot either.



The weird part is that they are only on the trunk lid, not on the spoiler, rear bumper, quarter panels or anywhere else on the car. I tried cleaner wax, swirl remover and nothing did anything. Any ideas what in the world this is and how to fix it? It seems like it might be some acid or chemical got on it but I can't think of when/where this might have happened and why it's only on the trunk. Any help from the experts is much appreciated!



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Hmmmmm......interesting?

Try taking it back to the dealer (body shop) to get their opinion. There might be a TSB or silent recall about this?



Could anything have dropped/landed on it?
 
David Fermani said:
Hmmmmm......interesting?

Try taking it back to the dealer (body shop) to get their opinion. There might be a TSB or silent recall about this?



Could anything have dropped/landed on it?
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I can't think of anything that might have landed on it. Weird part is its only on my trunk lid not even on the spoiler that sits on it. Nowhere else on the car are there any spots.
 
Would be interesting to have some electronic paint thickness gauge readings of the trunk lid and compare them to the top and hood.

Then do a close examination with a 30x lighted magnifier to see if there is any "bubbling' down in the spots.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Would be interesting to have some electronic paint thickness gauge readings of the trunk lid and compare them to the top and hood.

Then do a close examination with a 30x lighted magnifier to see if there is any "bubbling' down in the spots.
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I did some reading and evidently this has happened to other GT-R owners before. The weird part is that the spots tend to go away when parked in the sun almost like a water bubble that evaporates. I'm not sure how water could get trapped under the clear though. This is the first time I've seen this and I've had the car about 8 months.
 
CosmosMpower said:
I can't think of anything that might have landed on it. Weird part is its only on my trunk lid not even on the spoiler that sits on it. Nowhere else on the car are there any spots.
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Similar (but different) problem is happening with early vintage 6 Series BMWs on the trunk panels only. Could be a manufacturer's defect they take care of? These cars have had a multitude of paint issues from inception.
 
Before I got to Cosmos' 3rd post I was thinking trapped water too. I would first try parking in the sun for a day before trying anything else. Could try hitting with a light polish to see if it is some sort of chemical staining.



Keep us posted.
 
This is usually caused by moisture entrapment; use a 1:10 solution of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water, using a heat-gun (or hair dryer) 24-inches from the surface using slow oscillating motions, be patient as this takes time
 
TOGWT said:
This is usually caused by moisture entrapment; use a 1:10 solution of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water, using a heat-gun (or hair dryer) 24-inches from the surface using slow oscillating motions, be patient as this takes time
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Do I spray the alcohol/water solution on the spots and then dry it with a hairdryer? Does the alcohol soak through the clear and evaporate the moisture?



My service advisor said this happens with other Nissan cars too. I may be making a warranty claim.
 
The "drying" of the clear would have been my next suggestion. All vehicles today will accept some moisture into the paint systems, normally doesn't leave the "spots".

No need to dilute, actually. Just soak the area down, can be 70% or 90%, just get it on so it can penetrate, let it sit and then use the heat, about 6 to 8 inches, from the surface, in the slow oscillating motions.

IPA works as a drying agent and pulls the water out of the paint.

 
Ron Ketcham said:
The "drying" of the clear would have been my next suggestion. All vehicles today will accept some moisture into the paint systems, normally doesn't leave the "spots".

No need to dilute, actually. Just soak the area down, can be 70% or 90%, just get it on so it can penetrate, let it sit and then use the heat, about 6 to 8 inches, from the surface, in the slow oscillating motions.

IPA works as a drying agent and pulls the water out of the paint.
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Does the alcohol damage the paint or clearcoat? I don't want Nissan trying to blame damage on me if I make a warranty claim.
 
It will not damage the clearcoat. This method has been used by Nissan, Kia, Hyundia, Ford, Chrysler, Mazda, etc at their port operations for years.

It's main use at the ports is for when any rap-gard is removed and moisture has gotten under it, clouded the clear.

Before I showed them this simple and effective method, they were refinishing the panels.

Just don't get it "hot", like above 105F.

Plus, a 2010 is now two years out of paint warranty.



 
Ron Ketcham said:
It will not damage the clearcoat. This method has been used by Nissan, Kia, Hyundia, Ford, Chrysler, Mazda, etc at their port operations for years.

It's main use at the ports is for when any rap-gard is removed and moisture has gotten under it, clouded the clear.

Before I showed them this simple and effective method, they were refinishing the panels.

Just don't get it "hot", like above 105F.

Plus, a 2010 is now two years out of paint warranty.
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Thanks I'll give the alcohol and blow dryer a shot tonight. My car actually has a 3 year 36 month paint warranty and it was an inservice date of Oct 2010 so it's still within warranty. I already confirmed with my service advisor. I'm going to see how it looks after being in the sun all day and try the alcohol tip first.
 
Granted, I am a bit out of touch since retiring in 08, however, that is a bit different paint warranty than I can ever recall.

Is that what your owner's manual states or did the vehicle come with an after market paint sealant warranty in the purchase?
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Granted, I am a bit out of touch since retiring in 08, however, that is a bit different paint warranty than I can ever recall.

Is that what your owner's manual states or did the vehicle come with an after market paint sealant warranty in the purchase?
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That's how the warranty is stated, no aftermarket coverage. They better cover it for more than a year on a 100K car.
 
Thanks, I am amazed at that warrenty. I am aware that last year Nissan did bring Tim, my replacement in to go around to the field offices and present much the same "education" for their field engineers that Ford and Hyundai did when I was still in the loop.

I will try to chat with Tim to understand what the new warranty that Nissan/Infiniti offers these days.

Thanks for the reply, it is interesting.

 
Thanks for all the tips guys, the forum is awesome! The alcohol paired with a blowdryer was magic. The heat itself didn't do much but when I rubbed it down with a microfiber soaked in rubbing alcohol they blended away.



Ron and TOGWT if you're ever in DFW I owe you guys a beer or 10. Thanks again so much!



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The "heat" was as important as the IPA in resolving the concern.

Recall that I, somewhere in this thread of yours, stated that the IPA is a "drying agent"?

Enough time and the IPA would, maybe, on it's own, drawn the moisture out of the paint's substrate, the added heat just made it happen quicker and such.

Thanks for the offer of the beer, however, I drink little beer unless working in the yard.

Once that is done, it's Jack and water on some ice.

LOL, not being a smart "a##", but if I were to collect all the "thanks" for my decades of experience in this field, I would be an even bigger drunk than I am.

I earned it, at 69, years of working with the vehicle manufacturers all around the world, I deserve to drink or such, as much as I wish to.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
The "heat" was as important as the IPA in resolving the concern.

Recall that I, somewhere in this thread of yours, stated that the IPA is a "drying agent"?

Enough time and the IPA would, maybe, on it's own, drawn the moisture out of the paint's substrate, the added heat just made it happen quicker and such.

Thanks for the offer of the beer, however, I drink little beer unless working in the yard.

Once that is done, it's Jack and water on some ice.

LOL, not being a smart "a##", but if I were to collect all the "thanks" for my decades of experience in this field, I would be an even bigger drunk than I am.

I earned it, at 69, years of working with the vehicle manufacturers all around the world, I deserve to drink or such, as much as I wish to.
Click to expand...



The heat definitely did something because the sun reduced the severity and others have reported parking in direct sunlight fixing the problem completely but I'm not that patient.



The alcohol really sped up the process though, I would have had to sit there for a few hours with a blow dryer without it.
 
Modern and even back to the mid 70's, for some manufactuers applied paint systems, will absorb up to one pint of moisture into the paint system.

This information is not from some "sort of experts" but the paint suppliers to the manufactuers, their testing lab results, from the vehicle manufacturers.

Which is why when one observes vehicles without any protective processes performed on them,(before the newer paint systems,) will exhibit "rust streaks" coming up through the older paint systems.

Waxing back then was very important to protect the integrity of the paint film.

Modern paint systems are much more "porus" than older systems, however, the manufactuers have been applying the all important "e-coat/uni-prime" to the metal and other surfaces, before applying the surface primers, base coat and clear coat.

On average, any vehicle built since the use of such a paint system, will absorb aprox, one pint of water into the paint film. With sunlight heat, etc, that "paint" expands and allows the moisture to enter the paint film.

That first "coating"(e-coat/uni-prime) of the OEM paint system, stops the moisture from penetrating to the metal subsurface.

With some natural heat, etc, it will then evaporate out of the paint film.
 
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