Help! Need Imput! New car!

[The Driver]

Alright guys, so we finally got a new car. Anyways I'm al;ways used to correcting and bring back cars not really protecting right out of the gecko...

I know waxes an sealants but what other tools can I use to bulletproof the car? I was thinking about something along the lines of nanotech or something like it...? Imput please

 

[arack]

Alright guys, so we finally got a new car. Anyways I'm al;ways used to correcting and bring back cars not really protecting right out of the gecko...

I know waxes an sealants but what other tools can I use to bulletproof the car? I was thinking about something along the lines of nanotech or something like it...? Imput please

Try a coating like OptiCoat. It is bulletproof.

 

[Orinda Auto Detail]

I 2nd opticoat. But if your OCD about waxing your car you can do what I did. 2 coats BFWD topped with pinnacle sig II then it get a coat of sig II like 2-3 times a week(everytime I wash it)

 

[tropicsteve]

whatever you use, don't forget to do a good surface claying. new doesn't mean the paint is contaminant free.

 

[glen e]

i like detailing so i don't like opticoat...I do use it on headlight lenses

i do this for new cars as it is EASY, protects for months and shines like crazy
1. clay the car
2. wash with dawn
3. wax on/wax off BLACKFIRE TOTAL POLISH AND SEAL
4. WIPE ON BLACKFIRE Crystal Seal - no buffing necessary, no white stuff in cracks...
5. repeat in 2 hours #4

You will be amazed for months...just wash with Ultima or Blackfire car shampoo, do #4 every 3-4 months...

 

[The Driver]

Well I have my prep process down.

Cg citrus gloss w karcher k220
Riccardo yellow clay
Citrus wash again

Light correction probably use menz 4000

My lsps are cg ezyme, swissvax mirage, meguiars m16 and collonite 476.
My sealants are chem guys jet-seal 109 or menz power lock. IMO powerlick always seems to dull the color, it has an almost blue hue to it.

I might try opti coat. The car btw is Benz c300 4 matic base black. Thanks for your input guys!

 

[arack]

Well I have my prep process down.

Cg citrus gloss w karcher k220
Riccardo yellow clay
Citrus wash again

Light correction probably use menz 4000

My lsps are cg ezyme, swissvax mirage, meguiars m16 and collonite 476.
My sealants are chem guys jet-seal 109 or menz power lock. IMO powerlick always seems to dull the color, it has an almost blue hue to it.

I might try opti coat. The car btw is Benz c300 4 matic base black. Thanks for your input guys!

Add in Iron X as a step prior to claying. You will be shocked at how much Iron is on a new car.

 

[The Driver]

Add in Iron X as a step prior to claying. You will be shocked at how much Iron is on a new car.

I have carpro trix - you think that will do it?

 

[rzatch]

I have carpro trix - you think that will do it?

Yes

 

[Wheelzntoys]

I use a coating on horizontal panels and BFCS on vertical panels (personal vehicle).

 

[Todd@RUPES]

Alright guys, so we finally got a new car. Anyways I'm al;ways used to correcting and bring back cars not really protecting right out of the gecko...

I know waxes an sealants but what other tools can I use to bulletproof the car? I was thinking about something along the lines of nanotech or something like it...? Imput please

You need to treat a new car no differently then a used car. Inspect the finish, diagnose the issues, and fix them

New Car Detailing: Exterior Paint

The thought of buying a new car is exciting. The idea of you new pride-and-joy being bolted together at the factory by precise machines and careful hands, built just the way for you is intoxicating. While you may love your new car, even before you first set eyes on it, it represents a business transaction for the manufacturer and dealership. The chances of your new pristine new ride arriving unscathed is slim.

For many of us our car represents the second largest investment we will make. But a car, particularly a brand-new car, is more than that. We pick the style, the engine, the options, the wheels, and the color. It is an extension of us. Yet your new car is likely in need of some care by the time it reaches your hands. Why?

Improper Handling

Once your new car is built it is often tested receives a quality control assessment. Controls are checked for function. Part fitment must be with in predetermined specification. Tolerances must fall in range. While the paint may be examined, checking for swirl marks, light scuffs caused by factory workers scurrying across the factory, and surface blemishes isn't. If a noticeable paint defects, such as a nib -a piece of dirt that lands in the paint while it is being sprayed- or a paint run is found it is often spot corrected with sand paper and a high-speed polisher. While we know that correcting paint defects is time involved process that requires finesse those words are not in most factories dictionary. Time is money, and the next car needs to ship!

Once the car has passed “Q.C.” it is often packaged in protective film, both on the inside and outside to protect against damage during shipping. Depending on the location and destination, you new ride is now shipped via ship, train, cargo truck, or a combination of the three to your dealership. Along the way it may be loaded, unloaded, moved, and shifted around.

Finally it arrives at the dealership, almost ready for your welcoming hands. Almost....

If you have ever wondered why your sales manager tells you, “She's almost ready, she's being detailed right now,” and thought, “my car is brand new, why is it being detailed?” now you know. The dirt and grime that has assaulted your finish is being scrubbed off. The dirty evidence of transportation is quickly being washed away. Now your car is ready for you!

If you have ever seen most dealerships wash a car, then you know the horror that your new “pride and joy” is being subjected to. A wish mitt or brush and soap that has had the pleasure of cleaning three previous cars and its covered in their abrasive dirt. A towel that has been laying on the pavement. Three guys running around spraying “shiny stuff” on the tires and dashboard and occasionally the inside of the window. Finally, to top off your freshly scratched paint, they plaster decals, logos, badges and other advertisements on it like a billboard on the Sunset Strip.

If your car has been sitting on a the dealership lot for some time then the chances of it being subjected to this abuse, numerous times, is greatly increased.


Stop The Damage Before It Happens

If you are ordering a new car, truck, or SUV, you can take preventative steps to help ensure it arrives as perfect as possible. Instruct the dealership to not wash or detail the car! They may inform you that they have to remove the shipping plastic. This is usually attached with a low tack adhesive and comes right off so this okay.

Now is a good time to go over the “Paint Protection Program.” Many car dealerships will try to push their paint protection program on you. This usually consists of a paint sealant that is machine applied with the claim that it will protect the paint for 3 to 5 years. The caveat is that it needs to be reapplied, usually every 3-to-6 months, which means more potential for damage for your car. One of the benefits of this “programs” or at least one of the selling points is that it usually comes with a warranty provided that the product is reapplied when recommended.

Modern paint will last for 5 years with out much care, which is what these warranties tend to promote. However it will not look its best, and any stroll through a dealership parking lot will reveal plenty of new cars that no longer look their best. The best way to keep your new vehicle looking its best is to use quality products such as those available from Autopia-CarCare in conjunction with proper car care techniques.

From here on it is a good idea to advise the dealership or service center not to detail your car whenever you bring it in for service.


Give Your New Ride A Good Bath

The first step in getting your new car into new car condition is going to be gently remove all of the dirt, soiling, and grime that has accumulated on the exterior since leaving the factory gates. Washing a brand new car properly is the same as washing but here is a quick list of what you will need:

• A high quality car shampoo such as BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Conditioning Shampoo or Ultima Paint Guard Wash
  
• A soft, quality wash mitt such as a Sheepskin Wash Mitt or Micro Chenille Wash Mitt
  
• Two 5 Gallon Wash Buckets, each with a Grit Guard Insert
  
• A High Flow Wash Nozzle such as the Industrial High Flow Fireman's Nozzle
  
• A soft absorbent drying towel such as a Cobra Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towel

Here is a brief run-down on how to wash your new car in a manner that gets it sparkling clean and reduces the chances of putting swirls into the paint.

1. If your wheels and tires are dirty wash them first.
   
2. Always wash your new car in the shade if possible! This will keep your car wash shampoo solution from drying on the car before it is rinsed off. If at all possible, it is best to wash your car on a relatively calm day as even a slight breeze can put particles of dirt in the air. These dust particles are attracted to the wash/rinse water on your vehicle and act like sandpaper when rubbed between the drying towel and vehicle surface. The breeze will also tend to dry your car for you and this can cause streaks and water spots.
   
3. Use two buckets with a Grit Guard® Insert in each bucket. One is for your shampoo solution and the other is clean rinse water for your wash mitt.
   
4. Fill a 5-gallon bucket 2/3 full with cool water. Add recommended amount of shampoo to the water. Using a stiff jet of water, fill the bucket to fully activate suds. Fill the second bucket with clean, water for rinsing your wash mitt.
   
5. Thoroughly rinse the vehicle’s surface to remove the loose dirt and grime before you begin your car wash procedure. .
   
6. Only use high quality car shampoos and wash mitts.
   
7. When washing your vehicle remember to always go from high to low, never the opposite. Generally the dirtiest parts of your vehicle are those parts closest to the ground. Wheel wells, rocker panels and bumpers tend to have the largest accumulation of grime and you don’t want to bring that junk back onto the paint surface and risk scratching it.
   
8. Load up your wash mitt with your car wash solution and wring it out over the wash surface. This acts like a “pre-soak” and helps loosen surface gunk. It also adds more sudsy water to the surface more lubricity to help safely wash the grime away without scratching.
   
9. Keep your wash areas small and rinse your wash mitt frequently in the second bucket.
   
10. Wash in straight, overlapping lines as opposed to circles and remember to be gentle with the wash mitt on the first pass. This first pass will pick up the majority of the dirt, and loosens the remaining dirt for pick up on the second pass.
    
11. Rinse your vehicle by opening up your Fire Hose Nozzle to the open flow setting or by removing the nozzle if you don’t have an open flow option on your nozzle and let the water run or sheet over the surface instead of spraying. This helps in two ways. First, generally when water has “sheeted” off of a surface it tends to leave less residual droplets behind. This means less to drying time. Second, since there is less water to pick up, there is less chance of your leaving water behind to “spot” the vehicle.
    
12. When you dry your car, use only high quality microfiber waffle weave drying towels and wring out often. Gently dry the surface without much pressure. You don’t need to rub the surface…you’re just picking up the bulk of the water! Once you have picked up the bulk of the water, and the first towel is saturated, use the second towel to lightly pick up any remaining streaks or droplets.

Inspect The Finish For Surface Contamination

It is scary to think that a new vehicle could have “contamination” or harmful particulates that attach to the paint's finish and can ruin it over time. Particular if your new ride is only several days or weeks old. However, since leaving the factory gate it has been transported to you. Transport by train is gives your paint the highest potential of becoming contaminated. Heated iron dust created by the wheels as they travel over the tracks lands on the paint where it attaches and oxidizes. Environmental pollution begins to attack the paint the second it sees daylight for the first time. If your car has spent any time outdoors or on a dealer lot then it likely needs to be clayed.

Regardless of how it arrived there is a simple test to tell if it is time to clay your car. The contamination that clay removes can often be felt by touch. Paint should feel smooth. If you feel a gritty, a sandy, or a pebble like texture on the paint then it needs to be clayed.

Wash your car to make sure the surface is clean and free of any loose dirt, then feel the surface with the back of your hand for obvious contamination. Sometimes you can feel it right away but you may need to go one step further with your contamination test.

Take a plastic baggie and place your hand inside the bag.

Run the bag over the same area of your paint that you felt with your bare hand.​

Do you feel the difference? The plastic bag basically amplifies the surface contamination bonded to your car. Even if you don’t feel much, it is best to remove it before moving on to your polishing and protecting processes.

What You Need To Clay Your New Car

• A high grade detailing clay bar. For light surface contamination use Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Clay, for contamination that you can feel use BLACKFIRE Poly Clay II.
  
• A Clay Lubricant such as BLACKFIRE Clay Lubricant or Sonus Glyde.
  
• A soft, high-quality microfiber towel such as Supreme 530 Microfiber.

Detailing Clay Procedure

1. IMPORTANT! If you drop your detail clay bar on the ground you MUST throw it away as it will pick up dirt from the ground which will scratch your car!
   
2. Always work in a shaded area and on a cool surface. Claying your car on a warm or hot surface will tend to make the clay stick to the surface and will not be effective to remove the bonded surface contamination.
   
3. Thoroughly wash and dry your car or truck.
   
4. Cut your Detailing Clay in half or quarters and form a round flat wafer. A 200g Detailing Clay Bar will make four pieces.
   
5. Spray your detail clay lubricant onto about a 2’ by 2’ area.
   
6. Gently with slight pressure glide the detailing clay bar over the surface of the paint in a back and forth motion. Do not apply excessive pressure; remember you are only hydroplaning over the surface to remove bonded contaminants. The clay may tend to grab at first, then you will feel it break free and easily glide as the contaminants are removed.
7. IMPORTANT! Keep your clay and surface well lubricated with your detailing clay lubricant.
   
8. Wipe clay lubricant from the surface with a quality microfiber towel such as a 530 Supreme.
   
9. -Fold over your clay and knead to reshape often to expose a clean clay surface.
   
10. Feel the area that has been cleaned. It should feel slick and smooth. If not, you will need to repeat the process until all of the surface contamination has been removed.
    
11. Continue this process over the entire car. Remember that detail clay works great on glass, chrome and wheels too. Heavy embedded contaminants on wheels will probably require lots of elbow grease!
12. As a precaution when claying wheels be sure to use a dedicated clay bar that will not ever be used on your car’s paint.

With your paint well washed and cleansed with Detailing Clay it is time in move on to the most important step in giving your new vehicle the shine it deserves: Machine Polishing, which is also called Surface Enhancement or Paint Correction.

Starting at the factory, over zealous spray guns or tiny dust particles that have sneaked into the paint booth can cause paint blemishes in the form of paint runs or dust “nibs.” These imperfections have to be sanded out and quickly polished. As the painted body rolls down the assembly line workers and robots are busy bolting pieces on, soldering parts here and there, and installing trim and interior pieces, and doing so as quick as possible. The chances of your prized new possession not getting some surface scuffs or light scratches is about as good as standing toe-to-toe with a prime Sugar Ray Robinson and parrying all of his punches. There is just too much coming at you with just to much risk to escape unscathed.

You can take a deep breath and release your anxiety into the atmosphere, most new vehicles make it all twelve rounds and escape with out being KO'd, but they may have taken a couple on the chin. After assembly they are often washed or scrubbed clean, packed, and left to sit until transport arrives. Upon arrival at the dealership a good thorough scrubbing is required to clean the evidence of transport away. Maybe it's time to suck that anxiety back into your lungs.

As mentioned previously, ask the dealership not to wash your vehicle prior to you taking it home. After washing and claying the paint, it is time to inspect the paint for evidence of rough handling.


Inspect The Finish For Paint Defects

To inspect the paint for defects you will need to have it perfectly clean, which after washing carefully and claying, it will be. You will also need a bright source of light. The sun is ideal, and even though shamans and wizards have tried for centuries, we cannot control the weather. Having a paint inspection light, such as a Brinkmann “Swirl Finder” Xenon light will allow you to inspect the paint's finish in almost any lighting condition.

Inspect the paint visually, looking for signs of swirl marks, paint haze, paint runs or sages, and towel marks. The paint on your new car should look like a can of wet paint that has just been pried open. Now surface marks or obvious imperfections should be visible.

“Orange peel”

One paint defect that you may notice in almost all new paint finishes, and one that should not be removed in most cases is a paint texture that is often called “orange peel.” When viewed from an angle the surface of your paint may appear bumpy and uneven, like the skin/peel of an orange. This very common in new cars and older cars as well. Modern environmentally friendly water-based paints have seemed to exaggerate this issue and make it more noticeable.

As your new vehicle did battle in the factory, in transport, and at the dealership before it reached your hands it was likely subject to many areas of abrasion. Modern paint systems, which are often a clear layer of paint (called clear coat) over a color (called base) coat are notoriously thin and 'scratch sensitive'. Anytime something harder then the surface of the paint, such as dirt, sand, stitching, wash brushes, dirty wash water, has rubbed against the surface it has inflicted tiny scratches in the paint. Depending on the hardness of the clear coat and the color of the based coat these surface scratches are often visible in bright light.


Polishing The Paint To Perfection

The only way to remove these paint flaws or defects is to polish the paint. Called Paint Correction or Surface Enhancement, machine polishing the paint removes small, microscopic amounts of paint or clear coat in order to create a new, level surface which reflects light evenly. Modern advances in machine polishing technology including machines, pads, and polishes has made Surface Enhancement easier for the novice then ever before. While there is too much information to include in this article, we will cover some of the basics.

There are three main types of machine polishers that are commonly used. Random Orbital DA polishers, Forced Rotation DA polishers, and rotary polishers.

Random Orbital DA Polishers are machines that operate by orbiting the polishing pad around a center spindle while the pad freely spins on its own axis. A counterweight on the opposite side of the center spindle dampens vibration for smooth operation.

The tool head action, often called orbital, prevents the creation of holograms (symmetrical buffing marks), paint burns and other forms of paint damage often associated with high-speed buffing machines. When used with proper care, the design of a Random Orbital DA Polisher virtually eliminates the possibility of paint damage.

The polishing action of the Porter Cable car polisher and other dual-action polishers closely mimics that of circular hand polishing. Imagine being able to make 2,500 to 6,800 tight hand circles in a single minute and you'll have a pretty good idea of how the Random Orbital DA Polisher does its job. It works just like your hand, only at super-human speed!

Popular Random Orbital DA Polishers include the Porter Cable 7424 XP, the Meguiar's G110v2, and the Griot' Garage 6 Inch DA. Other, specialty Random Orbital DA Polishers include the Cyclo, the miniature Griot's Garage 3 Inch DA, and the unique “Two-Mode” Makita BO6040 which can switch between Random Orbital and Forced Rotation modes.

Much like a Random Orbital DA Polisher, Forced Rotation DA Polishers move the pad in two separate motions: A tiny orbital motion and a spinning movement. Where the Random Orbital DA uses bearing that allows the pad to free-spin, Forced Rotation DA Polishers use a drive mechanism that powers the spinning motion as well.

This gives Forced Rotation DA Polishers more polishing power, while slightly increasing the risk of damaging the paint. The motion that this style of polisher drives the pad is across the paint prevents holograms and reduces the chance of paint damage associated with machine buffing.

The FLEX 3401 VRC is the most popular Forced Rotation DA Polisher, but the Makita BO6040 “Two-Mode”, with it's unique ability to switch between Random Orbital and Forced Rotation Modes shouldn't be overlooked.

Once the staple of professionals, and the tool of choice for the brave enthusiasts who dared to polish their own paint, Rotary Polishers work by driving the pad in a single spinning movement. The direct-drive motion and powerful motor is capable of moving the pad very quickly across the paint, creating high-levels of friction necessary for serious machine polishing. With the high-levels of polishing power available, there is an increased risk of damaging the paint by overheating (burning) or removing too much (strike-through).

Rotary polishers, also known as Variable Speed or High-Speed Buffers, where once the only choice for severe paint defect correction. However modern advances in Dual Action technology has closed the gab considerably. Popular rotary polishers include the work horse DeWalt DWP 849X, FLEX PE14-2-150, 3M Variable Speed, and Makita 9227c.

Many novices opt for either the Random Orbital DA Polisher or the Forced Rotation DA Polisher because they the DA (dual action) action provides a greater margin of safety again paint burns and defects.


Autopia-CarCare and AutopiaForums Makes Paint Polishing Easy

Autopia-CarCare.com sells a wide variety of machine polisher kits, polishes, and pads to get your paint looking great. Expert technical advice is always available. Autopia-CarCare.com also offers detailed How-To-Articles including detailed articles on machine polishing paint.

AutopiaForums.com is Autopia's online community, offering a chance for like minded individuals an opportunity to discuss car detailing and care in its entirety.



After washing, cleaning, and polishing the paint it should be looking great, like your new vehicle deserves. The next step is to select the appropriate wax or sealant to keep your new paint looking great.

Selecting The Right Type Of Protection For Your Paint


Paint protection products, also referred to as LSPs (Last Step Protectant/ Last Step Process) can be divided into four distinct categories: Natural Waxes, Synthetic Polymer Sealants, Blended Paint Sealants, and Paint Coatings.

Natural Waxes: Natural Waxes are most often made from carnauba wax. Carnauba wax is extremely resilient and hard. It grows on the leaves of the Copernicia Prunifera Palm Tree in Northern Brazil. Carnauba wax is renowned for its ability to protect the paint from sun radiation and environmental fallout. Most natural carnauba waxes impart a deep, wet-shine on the paint referred to as “jetting”. Popular Natural Waxes included P21s Concours Look Carnauba Wax, BLACKFIRE Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste, and Pinnacle Natural Brilliance Souveran Carnauba.

Synthetic Polymer Paint Sealants: Paint sealants utilize synthetic polymer ingredients in place of natural waxes to form a tighter bond with your paint. In general, paint sealants will last longer than natural waxes and tend to produce a brighter, glossier shine. Select a paint sealant when longevity and ease-of-use are primary concerns or if you appreciate a highly reflective shine. Popular choices include BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, Ultima Paint Guard Plus, and Menzerna Power-Lock.

Blended Sealant/Waxes: Blended sealant/waxes are hybrid of the best properties of a natural wax blended with the best qualities of syn ethic polymer paint sealant. Popular blended waxes included Pinnacle Natural Brilliance Signature Series, Dodo Juice Purple Haze Pro, and Wolfgang Fuzion.

Paint Coatings: Paint Coatings form a newer, outer layer coating over your paint system. They last longer then two years and some are reported to last forever. It is recommended to apply a paint coating only when the paint has been polished to the level you can live with forever, as once the paint coating is applied the paint will be be covered completely. Popular paint coatings are available from Optimum Polymer Technologies, CarPro Car Care, and Gtechniq.

Follow the manufacturer recommended procedure for the individual product to guarantee best results. This often mandates cleaning the paint with a specific cleaner or prep-agent. We recommend two thin coats for maximum and even coverage. Reapply your favorite product when you notice a dramatic difference in the way the paint beads or a fall off in appearance.


Keep Your Paint Looking Great And Your New Car Looking Its Best


With you new vehicle looking the way it should have you can sit back and enjoy the shine and protection. Parade it down the street and admire the curious glances that a mirror like shine will attract. Proper maintenance of your vehicle's paint will keep your new vehicle looking great.

To truly maintain that brand new look requires a combination of the previous steps with some twists.

Car Washing: The goal, now more than ever, is to prevent damaging the paint or inflicting new microscopic paint marring when washing. Frequent washing with the correct technique, found towards the beginning of this article, is necessary. The more frequently you wash your paint, the less time dirt and grime there is to be washed away.

After washing your, dry it with a high quality detail spray to add gloss and reduce the chance of creating swirl marks. Periodically switch from a detail spray to a high quality spray wax or sealant to reinforce your paints protection.

Inspect Your Finish Frequently: Careful inspection of your paint, both by touch (for contamination) and visually (for the formation of new swirl marks) will go a long way towards keeping your new ride looking new. Keep an eye on your existing paint protection as well by inspecting the quality of water breading present. When the water beading starts to lay flat or when washing is more difficult it is time to add more protection to the paint.


Conclusion

Caring for your new vehicles paint is, in most circumstances, no different then detailing any paint. By assessing the condition of the paint, inspecting the finish, and using the appropriate techniques you will have the best looking “new car” on the new car lot. By maintaining your new car carefully, you will have the best looking used car on the new car lot several years down the road.

 

[The Driver]

Very nice, I'm used to doing such heavy corrections I ran the light over it the other day an it's very minor. I'll probably use Menz 4000 or something along those lines with a green or even softer. I just can't decide wether to hit it with the GG, 3401 or one of my rotaries. I don't think it's even necessary to use a rotor just because of the amount removal they do. I also have the CG micro system, I was thinking of using with the GG.

The arsenal...

[/IMG]

The car in question.

Paint...

Todd, What do you think the best combo would be?

 

[Todd@RUPES]

Very nice, I'm used to doing such heavy corrections I ran the light over it the other day an it's very minor. I'll probably use Menz 4000 or something along those lines with a green or even softer. I just can't decide wether to hit it with the GG, 3401 or one of my rotaries. I don't think it's even necessary to use a rotor just because of the amount removal they do. I also have the CG micro system, I was thinking of using with the GG.

The arsenal...

[/IMG]

The car in question.

Paint...

Todd, What do you think the best combo would be?

You have a very nice collection.

I honestly have no idea what the best combo would be because there are SO MANY variables at play. I know I would start with something like Menzerna SF4000 and a fine pad, and if that doesn't work I would systematically increase the aggressiveness.

If I had to guess, I think you will end up around needing something like Menzerna SI1500 to get most of the deep stuff out.