Help a Noob -- Polish Drying Super Fast

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papawheelie

New member
Hello all.



First post. I am new to detailing as well. So far I've spent my life "washing and waxing" using dish soap and Turtle Wax, the way my dad taught me.



I've spent the past month reading this site and others, gathering my products & supplies as well as knowledge to dive in to my new hobby.



I'm learning on my black 2006 Nissan Murano. It is in kinda rough shape, to start. It spends much of it's life (5 1/2 years and 50,000 miles) baking in the Phoenix sun, going through gas station car washes, and generally not receiving proper paint surface care. It has mild oxidation, some light scratches, and pretty bad swirls throughout. I'm confident that it can be brought back to like-new condition.



So far I have thoroughly washed and clayed it twice (wash, clay, wash, clay). I used dish soap and Griot's Garage Paint Cleaning clay with Speed Shine. The clay worked terrific! After the first go-around, I threw that piece of clay away because it probably shouldn't have been used again. After the second go-around, the clay was in much better shape, and saved for future. The surface is indeed smooth and free of contaminents. A great start, and confidence booster.



So, I'm ready to try out my fancy new Griot's Garage 6" random orbit. I have never used one before. Full-on noobie. I have several of their orange foam polish pads, Machine Polish #3, and Machine Polish #2. I started out with Machine Polish #3, and immediately opted to go to the slightly more agressive Polish #2.



I think everything is going pretty well. I've watched a bunch of online videos about the do's and dont's of machine polishing. My issue, though, is that the polish (both 2 and 3) is drying super fast on me, with crazy dusting. Air and surface temperature is in the 70s, with about 25% humidity. Working in the garage with doors open and a light breeze. I've given it a fair chance, completing half the roof (driver side), the rear hatch and bumper, and most of the driver side panels. I am using plenty of polish for each section. I started with 2'x2' sections, and switched to 1'x1' sections. I'm working with the machine set on speed 4-5. I've tried working fast, and nice and slow. However, it seems like I don't get to pass over the surface more than 1 or 2 times, for 15-30 seconds, and my polish is dry and dusting. I am spending quite a bit of time and effort wiping off that dried polish. I've tried lightly spraying the surface with Speed Shine and water. It helps, but causes smears, and doesn't seem like it should be necessary.



WHAT IS THE NOOBIE DOING WRONG? :sadwavey:



I've read that oxidation can absorb oils in the polish, causing it to dry very quickly, but don't know if I should believe that, or what to do about it.



I wonder if I just keep pushing through with the #2 polish, hopefully not doing more harm to the surface in the process, that I will not have the same issue when I go over it a second time with Polish #3.



I figured I should take a break and create my profile here and see if the experts can help me.



Sense of confidence has decreased since I started polishing this morning. I want to make my products work, if possible, versus going out and buying different stuff.



There is a sticker under the hood that says "Hard Clear Coat".



I am very appreciative of guidance.



-Duane
 
Interesting. I am certainly no expert, so just throwing out possible suggestions/ideas. Is the car's surface warm/hot at all? I know you said you were working in a garage, but did you move the car in there from outside or something? How old are the products you are using? Also, I know some products aren't meant to be worked until they are broken down, however I don't think Griot's polishes fall into this category.
 
Hey Hollywood. Thanks for the reply. No, surface is not warm at all. It has been in the garage since its wash/clay yesterday morning. The surface is cool to touch.



I've ordered all products online in the past month, but who knows how old they really are. I have not seen anything about breaking down the Griot's prioducts. As I understand it, they're ready to use out of the container?



I'm pushing on. I suppose experience will get me somewhere -- we'll see where... : )
 
Is it still polishing up well even though it's drying fast? Let us know how it turns out. May just be the nature of the polish. I'm not to familiar with Griot's polishes though.
 
papawheelie- Welcome to Autopia!



I haven't used Griot's Machine Polishes for a long time, and they might've reformulated them since then, and I used them with polishers other than the latest GG's 6", but anyhow..The 1 x 1 areas are probably a good idea. You shouldn't need to add SpeedShine etc. The GG's MPs do dust a fair bit, especially if you work them until they dry.



While AFAIK they do need to be worked a while to break down (diminishing abrasive products), you might try stopping and buffing while the product is still just a little wet. Yeah, I know, that sounds tricky since it's drying out so fast, huh? Maybe a bit more product, distributed evenly on the pad. I can't help but think that a 1 x1 area, worked with a 6" pad, oughta give you a lot more work time than you're getting, espeically with those products.



Wonder how it'd go if you used what you'd think was an excessive amount of polish? Eh, I don't want you to go nuts with that idea, but you could always just expand the area of operation if you really overdid it.



I wouldn't worry about the products being too old, my GG's MPs are *ancient* and I'm confident they're still OK.
 
Polishes are meant to break down/ dust... thats how they work. Slow down, and dont spread the polish with the machine. If you spread it out, it will just dry on you. Like Accumulator said... try using more product. I generally use about a .75" spot of product for a 2x2 area. once you get some product soaked into the pad, you will need less and less. Dont tell anyone I told you this, but try dampening your pad before you start... just damp, not wet!!!

Let me know how that works!
 
Yeah, I hardly *ever* spread the product around any more. With Griot's stuff being water-based, adding some water probably won't cause issues, but watch out for increased cut (a sometimes counterintuitive side effect).
 
Hey guys. Thanks a lot for the replies and suggestions. I figured it out this morning. Where's the lightbulb emoticon?



I was using way, way too much polish on my pad yesterday. This morning, I started with a new orange pad, primed it, then used a single thin bead of polish near the edge for each section. I brushed it occasionally to keep the surface fresh. Voila... No slinging, no drying out, no crazy dusting, etc. I'm able to put down a nice smooth thin layer and then polish it pretty much as long as I need, and all that is left is an almost invisible layer of polish that easily wipes off. It was a real pleasure to work with and I actually said 'wow' when it clicked.



Unfortunately, I was about 2/3 done when I started this morning (left it alone yesterday, in frustration). I'm not going over the whole car again. It will just have to be good enough for this time. Went over the whole car with #2 and #3 polishes, so good enough for me. It will be much easier and quicker next time (Fall), and will be able to use only the finer polish.



I made such a mess with all the slinging and splatter yesterday, that I feel the need to rinse it off before applying my sealant (hopefully not sacrilege). I plan to rinse it this evening after the sun is down. I can even use filtered water to reduce minerals and such in the terrible city tap water. I'll dry it thoroughly (using my fancy new microfiber towels) and let it sit in the garage overnight to be sure no water left in the nooks and crannies.



Then, on with the Klasse sealant in the morning! :D
 
By the way, any guidance on applying the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze? I've read very good stuff about it. The container says that I should expect to use only 2 fluid ounces per car. That's not very much. And my polishing experience tells me that I'm prone to use too much... haha... : )



Found this same text on several different sites, so not sure who to credit...



Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze Hand ApplicationApply Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze just like you applied the All-In-One. With a damp (NOT WET) applicator pad or towel, spread a nickel-sized amount of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze onto the surface in long, overlapping strokes. Go over each area a few times to ensure even, thin coverage. Remember that Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze is only for painted surfaces.



Apply glaze to the entire vehicle before you wipe off residue. Allow Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze to set for at least 30 minutes or until it is completely dry. Buff with a soft, microfiber towel for the best results.



Feel free to apply as many coats as you like, buffing each coat off before applying another coat. Wait 8-12 hours between coats. Multiple coats of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze will not yellow or discolor your vehicle.



Tip: If Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze streaks, you’ve used too much product. Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe the area to remove residue.



Tip: Let Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze set on your vehicle for as long as possible. At least 8 to 12 hours is recommended before applying another coat. Remember, the best things come to those who wait!
 
papawheelie said:
Hey guys. Thanks a lot for the replies and suggestions. I figured it out this morning...
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Hey, glad to hear that!

I was using way, way too much polish on my pad yesterday.
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Heh heh, oh sheesh...here I was suggesting you try *more* product! Interesting that it was drying out too fast with too much, sure wouldn't have thunk that.

Unfortunately, I was about 2/3 done when I started this morning (left it alone yesterday, in frustration). I'm not going over the whole car again. It will just have to be good enough for this time.
Click to expand...



Since you saw fit to drop down to the MP3 I bet it's plenty good enough. Even the MP2 can finish out pretty well on many paints.
I made such a mess with all the slinging and splatter yesterday, that I feel the need to rinse it off before applying my sealant (hopefully not sacrilege). I plan to rinse it this evening after the sun is down. I can even use filtered water to reduce minerals and such in the terrible city tap water. I'll dry it thoroughly (using my fancy new microfiber towels) and let it sit in the garage overnight to be sure no water left in the nooks and crannies.
Click to expand...



I think I'd take the additional time to wash it rather than just doing the rinse. Better safe than sorry. Don't want polish residue working its way out of nooks and crannies later, like...when it rains or you do a thorough wash.
 
Accumulator said:
I think I'd take the additional time to wash it rather than just doing the rinse. Better safe than sorry. Don't want polish residue working its way out of nooks and crannies later, like...when it rains or you do a thorough wash.
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Thanks a lot Accumulator. I will gladly wash it again this evening. I just wasn't sure if that is a 'no-no' between polish and sealant. It should be a pleasure to wash that shiny, super smooth surface.



Any guidance on my Klasse sealant, by chance? I'm actually glad that it's recommended application is by hand (still a little shy with the machine). Small hand applicator pads? Terry-covered sponges, or foam pad? I don't have any small foam hand applicator pads, so will see if I can find a couple this afternoon, in preparation for morning.
 
papawheelie said:
By the way, any guidance on applying the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze? I've read very good stuff about it. The container says that I should expect to use only 2 fluid ounces per car. That's not very much. And my polishing experience tells me that I'm prone to use too much... haha... : )
Click to expand...



Get this- when I used it on the minivan I used to have (pretty big), I used *FAR* less than one ounce! And that included all the jambs/etc. I put it on so thin that I simply couldn't see it on the silver paint, had to work off non-visual cues.

[Found this same text on several different sites, so not sure who to credit...



Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze Hand ApplicationApply Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze just like you applied the All-In-One. With a damp (NOT WET) applicator pad or towel, spread a nickel-sized amount of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze onto the surface in long, overlapping strokes. Go over each area a few times to ensure even, thin coverage. Remember that Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze is only for painted surfaces.
Click to expand...





Some of that is counter to my (not inconsiderable ;) ) experience with KSG :think: But different people have different experiences.



I barely dampen the applicator with KSG. I hold the applicator over the hole in the bottle and shake it to deposit a drop. Move applicator and repeat repeat reapeat... Eventually the applicator gets barely damp with KSG, just enough that it'll glide across the surface without dragging. When it starts to drag, add a tiny bit more the same way. Eh...lots of different ways work for different people, but that's how I do it.



I use KSG on black/etc. exterior trim, even *rubber* with great results. But when doing that I use the wipe-on-wipe-off approach rather than letting it dry. Works super for me. I even do the rubber and plastic runningboard/etc. surfaces with it.
Apply glaze to the entire vehicle before you wipe off residue. Allow Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze to set for at least 30 minutes or until it is completely dry. Buff with a soft, microfiber towel for the best results.
Click to expand...



OK. That's how I do it but others wipe it off promptly after doing just one panel.



When buffing it off, I like to fog the surface of the panels with my breath (yeah, I know..heat/etc. factors in). The tiny bit of condensation helps with the buffing with no downside.
Feel free to apply as many coats as you like, buffing each coat off before applying another coat. Wait 8-12 hours between coats. Multiple coats of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze will not yellow or discolor your vehicle.
Click to expand...



Correct. But I wait longer. I aim for a total of six coats. One coat doesn't last long at all. Two aren't all that much better. You might see appearance improvements up to four but it'll be subtle. Five or six coats (the last two can be done later, after subsequent wahes) are where the durability and protection become simply amazing.
Tip: If Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze streaks, you’ve used too much product. Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe the area to remove residue.
Click to expand...



Right.

Tip: Let Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze set on your vehicle for as long as possible. At least 8 to 12 hours is recommended before applying another coat. Remember, the best things come to those who wait!
Click to expand...



That's been my experience, with the exception of the trim applications mentioned above. I've let it set up for up to three days and it buffed off easily. BUT others have said that made things harder for them...not sure why, it's just another of those YMMV things. I myself almost always let it set up overnight (except on trim).
I'm actually glad that it's recommended application is by hand (still a little shy with the machine)...
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I usually prefer machines for such stuff, but not with KSG.

Small hand applicator pads? Terry-covered sponges, or foam pad? I don't have any small foam hand applicator pads, so will see if I can find a couple this afternoon, in preparation for morning.
Click to expand...



Get some of the foam "wax applicator" pads. Terry is just too iffy...sometimes it can mar paint when you'd swear it was soft enough to be safe. And I find it easier to control the thickness/not of the application with the foam pads.
 
Accumulator, thank you so much for your time. I really appreciate the direction. Will give it a go in the morning. Luckily, I can let the car sit in the garage the next few days, so should be able to get a few coats of 'KSG' without exposing it to the environment (dirt, bugs, etc.).



I'll post back. I've taken a few pics along the way that I will post up as well, if it turns out decent at all. : )
 
popawheelie- Just keep a close eye on things and if something goes haywire...a)notice it before you go too far down that road, b) stop and think about what's going on and how to remedy it, and /or c) post here asking for help. Somebody here has usually dealt with any issue you can imagine and you can save yourself a lot of time and frustration by availing yourself of our experiences.



Not that I expect anything to go wrong ;) I think the tough part is now behind you.



BTW, have you thought about a quick detailer ("QD") for use on the KSG? I like to spritz some on after each wash to give things a little boost.
 
In my experience the Griot's polishes are not very good. I used them years ago, however, and comparing it to the products I currently use. The paint, considering its condition, may be absorbing the oils in the polishes very quickly. Another factor is that orange foam pads tend to skip a bit across the paint, especially before the pad gets "primed". Try a softer pad with the Griot's and see if it is any better.
 
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