Heavy swirl marks

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dynoman

New member
I have been trying to get some heavy swirl marks out of a burgundy GMC truck, I started with my PC and SSR1 with my Orange Edge Pad that did very little so I move to SSR2.5 with my Orange pad and that helped a little, so I changed to the yellow pad and it helped some more but still has not taken all of them out. Should I get some SSR 3 or is there something better. Sorry no pictures and the truck is a 2005.
 
Some time it will take more than 1 pass even with SSR2.5. SSR3 is some pretty strong stuff. If you have had some success with the SSR2.5 try giving it another pass and see if it improves and then adjust from there.

With a cutting pad you may be leaving some marring from the pad.

Good luck
"J"
 
I'm going to agree with Jay. I've only ever used SSR3 as a last resort type product because SSR2.5 usually will take care of any swirls that I am dealing with. Make a couple more passes on it and then step back down to SSR1 with a polishing pad.
 
dynoman said:
I have been trying to get some heavy swirl marks out of a burgundy GMC truck, I started with my PC and SSR1 with my Orange Edge Pad that did very little so I move to SSR2.5 with my Orange pad and that helped a little, so I changed to the yellow pad and it helped some more but still has not taken all of them out. Should I get some SSR 3 or is there something better. Sorry no pictures and the truck is a 2005.
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It could be your technique.

Remember to go slow, applying some pressure with your DA. Work on small sections at a time.
 
Now that Troy mentioned technique.
I didn't even bother to ask what speed do you have the PC at?
Slow overlapping passes in a -- | / \ pattern will help also.

Troy thanks for reminding us its process rather than product, sometimes you can forget.

"J"
 
Troy@DetailCity said:
It could be your technique.

Remember to go slow, applying some pressure with your DA. Work on small sections at a time.
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Its what I was going to say work in small area so that you can control the heat of the product, don't over load the pad, and work until its gone. Wipe clean and check the area...I think that most people go to fast with a PC thinking that its taking off the swirls, not in all cases.

If you have a rotary and are good with it that would be the way on something that you are talking about.
 
I don't know the aggressiveness of Edge pads but I wouldn't use anything more aggressive than a polishing pad- maybe a light cut on an extreme case with the SSR2.5. Crank it all the way up to 6 and take your time. Slow overlapping passes on a 2' x 2' area.

Even when your process is spot on, some swirl marks are too deep to remove. There is a line where you have to allow yourself to leave them in the paint to not risk CC failure down the road. Also, when you get the paint where you are satisified work on washing techniques in order to minimize the swirls in the future.
 
I agree with a lot of the above suggestions. Using a polishing pad or an Orange cutting pad is the most agressive I would go with SSR2.5. Do not use a cutting pad with the SSR1 as it is too fine a polish and will leave marring. SSR1 can be used with a polishing pad or finishing pad to bring up a higher gloss. :)
 
Unfortunitely, with "heavy swirls" it's a 2 step process. Compound with a cutting pad or wool then Polish with a polishing pad. Products? I've had good results with Meg's 84 and then XMT#3. If you're using a rotary it's quick, PC - bring on a jar of elbow grease and a lot of patience!
 
Junebug said:
Unfortunitely, with "heavy swirls" it's a 2 step process. Compound with a cutting pad or wool then Polish with a polishing pad. Products? I've had good results with Meg's 84 and then XMT#3. If you're using a rotary it's quick, PC - bring on a jar of elbow grease and a lot of patience!
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You hit it right there.
My friend at the body shop can do paint correction in 3 to 5 minutes with a rotary that would take me 30 minutes to do with the PC. If I could even get it taken care of.

Charles
 
Charles, I still stand back in complete awe at my old employer's (body shop guys) when they take an old single speed rotary, a wool pad and some 3M and turn a mess into perfect paint. I don't think I could do that if my life depended on it and those old dudes don't blink an eye! When I finally retire from my day job, I will dedicate my time to getting that good! Well, let's say close, I'm not getting rid of my Makita!
 
I have some 3M rubbing compound that a friend said worked on his swirls. What technique and pads should I use in conjuction with this product, if I should use it at all. I have to do my father's SUV, and it's got some pretty bad swirls, fine scratches, and sap or something that doesn't come off with regular washing. I've also got Meguir's swirl remover. Should I use the 3M rubbing compound only if the Meguir's swirl remover doesn't work with a few passes, or am I okay using the 3M?
 
CharlesW said:
I have no idea what product you may have, but...... Rubbing compound is not for beginners.

Charles
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I'm not really a beginner. I've used it before, just not sure if it would be required for normal swirls, and then some deposits that dont completely come off with claying. This is a last resort type thing, and I'm just wondering which way to approach this "light duty" use of it...
 
NALegacy said:
I have some 3M rubbing compound that a friend said worked on his swirls. What technique and pads should I use in conjuction with this product, if I should use it at all. I have to do my father's SUV, and it's got some pretty bad swirls, fine scratches, and sap or something that doesn't come off with regular washing. I've also got Meguir's swirl remover. Should I use the 3M rubbing compound only if the Meguir's swirl remover doesn't work with a few passes, or am I okay using the 3M?
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Always start with the least aggressive method first. Without seeing in person what you are talking about, it's hard to tell you exactly what to use. The advice you get will probably be on the safe side.

I don't get in the habit of recommending products but I will say that proper technique and using the proper pad makes a huge difference. There are plenty of threads on here that deal with these problems. Try doing a search for "swirl removal". As far as the sap goes, just use a tar and sap remover. You will find that rubbing alcohol works in some cases.


Troy
 
dynoman said:
I have been trying to get some heavy swirl marks out of a burgundy GMC truck, I started with my PC and SSR1 with my Orange Edge Pad that did very little so I move to SSR2.5 with my Orange pad and that helped a little, so I changed to the yellow pad and it helped some more but still has not taken all of them out. Should I get some SSR 3 or is there something better. Sorry no pictures and the truck is a 2005.
Click to expand...
If I may jump in hear dynoman, I would recomend SSR2.5 followed by PBP blue toped with PB EXP. I use Meg's Burgandy pad to apply the SSR2.5 and Meg's polishing pad to apply the polish. The EXP I apply with a finess pad at #3 speed on the PC, anything else I keep my PC set on #6. I have used LC pads and just dont care for them.
 
Speaking of pad and products use. I was just wondering. Is there by chance a chart anywhere that shows the various products with what pads can be used? I am sur ei have missied this or simply overlooked it.

Richard
 
97F1504x4 said:
Speaking of pad and products use. I was just wondering. Is there by chance a chart anywhere that shows the various products with what pads can be used? I am sur ei have missied this or simply overlooked it.

Richard
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Well now that you have mentioned it, I guess that I have found my next project :lmfao

But all things will depend on the starting condition of the paint, you could say that SSR2.5 and a cutting pad will marring (with it will), but it isn't always necessary.

"J"
 
Well i did not mean to create work for anyone. However if you have the time and know how. I think it would be beneficial to all of us.

Richard
 
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