grit # question for headlights

A

A4 2000

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I've used 2000 grit to wet sand headlights before but it took forever to do. I picked up some 1000 grit to start off with before moving onto the 2000 since I couldn't find 1500 grit at Autozone. My question is if I can take out the 1000 scratches with the 2000 or should I wait to find some 1500 somewhere? I'm doing this for a co-worker and do not want to end up with crappy results. Thanks
 
Ive used as heavy as 400 grit for heavy scratches and gouges, then 1000 and on to 2000. Ive never had trouble with going from 1000 to 2000. Some people like to go as high as 4000, but Ive never seen the need to use that high of a grit for headlights.



For what its worth, I've used Sylvanias headlight restoration kit ($20) with fantastic results. If you only have one set of headlights to do and need a decent otc product, I would recommend it. Of course, it is ideal to remove the headlights from the vehicle for restoring...
 
Ok thanks for the quick response and for answering my question. I should be good to go then. BTW, I use quixx scratch remover as my polish and it takes out 2000 grit easily by hand.
 
I tried 1000 grit and it still takes forever to take off the coating on the headlights which surprised me. I think I'm going to get some 400 grit then.
 
I ususally start from 400, go to 800, then 1000, 1500 and finally 2000.



Which pads do you guys use to follow up the 2000 with, and what compound?
 
You really need to do a search on the autogeek forums for Spar Urethane. I have ben using it with excellent results.



Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk 2
 
From Auto Geek Forum:

My process is basically already well known:



Wetsand-400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 (Ed.: I added 3000)

Buff-System one polish or equivalent with a high speed drill with small wool pad attachment

But here is the "new" part......

UV Sealer-Helmsman Spar Urethane(Indoor/Outdoor)Clear Gloss mixed with Mineral Spirits(1part urethane to 1 part mineral spirits).



After you buff the lights out with your polisher, you wipe down the headlight with denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol (to eliminate any compound residue).

Mix the urethane and mineral spirits in a plastic disposable cup. Remember the dilution ration- 1 part to 1 part.

Then, take a blue 'scott' shop rag and fold it up into a 1 inch x 1 inch square(Ed.: I used a 2" wide foam brush). Then dip the rag into the mixture and wipe it on the headlight. Don’t use too much or it might run, but start at the top of the light and work side to side. It took me a few times to get my method down, so if you mess up with application, wipe it off with mineral spirits and start over.

This UV sealant dries in 10-20 mins usually and is far superior to any average detail product(paint sealant, wax etc.......)

Its like a clear cote, but you don’t spray it, not as messy.

Longevity-The original "creator" of this method told me that he did a headlight restoration with this method about 2 years ago for a customer, and he said it still looks good.
 
When you guys go real low on the grit like 400, are you doing it by hand or on a drill? I've never gone lower than 800 and work up to 2000 all by hand. Do you go down to 400 every time or only when you NEED to go that low or every time? It just seems to me that it would be too low of a grit for the plastic and would take along time to get those deep scratches out. I feel more comfortable working the 800 longer to get out the deeper stuff than putting the 400 marks in it to begin with. Or am I being too cautious, is it faster to just sand out the 400 scratches?
 
I use my old first-gen PC for sanding lights, usually with the Meguiar's system which goes from 320->500->800->1000->3000. I use their S3BP backing plate and S3FIS interface pad.



Generally speaking I find I can skip the 320 and 500 grit steps unless the oxidation is really bad.
 
ExplicitDetails said:
When you guys go real low on the grit like 400, are you doing it by hand or on a drill? I've never gone lower than 800 and work up to 2000 all by hand. Do you go down to 400 every time or only when you NEED to go that low or every time? It just seems to me that it would be too low of a grit for the plastic and would take along time to get those deep scratches out. I feel more comfortable working the 800 longer to get out the deeper stuff than putting the 400 marks in it to begin with. Or am I being too cautious, is it faster to just sand out the 400 scratches?
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I regret trying the 400 grit now. There are some deep scratches that I didn't get out with the 1000 grit I guess. I got better results starting at a higher grit and spending a little more time on it. Maybe because I'm doing it all by hand.
 
A4 2000 said:
I regret trying the 400 grit now. There are some deep scratches that I didn't get out with the 1000 grit I guess. I got better results starting at a higher grit and spending a little more time on it. Maybe because I'm doing it all by hand.
Click to expand...



Did you go straight from the 400 grit to 1000 grit? If so you really need a middle step, either 600 or 800, if not both.
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
Did you go straight from the 400 grit to 1000 grit? If so you really need a middle step, either 600 or 800, if not both.
Click to expand...



Yeah. I just heard a few guys say that they didn't have a problem doing it, but I guess they weren't doing it by hand. I don't want to keep buying all these different kinds of sandpaper either so I think the lowest I'll stick to is 1000 and then finish off with 2000.
 
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