Gray carpet/Red soda

Wow! All by hand only? And I was complaining about washing and waxing my Acura. Geez, perhaps my budget for purchasing a PC and CMA pad kits would be better spent on getting more wax or some other supplies.



Amazing, and thanks for the information-rich posts!
 
On topic-

I'm doing everything right now by hand. I just need to go borrow a vac. My int. could really benefit from a good deep cleaning. Ya, it looks good, but I know there is still small civilizations living in my carpet and I don't like that idea.



My friend has a 91'-92' in red (I think its the same red as that explorer) with awful paint that I'm probably going to detail. This would most likely not have a clearcoat, correct?





off topic-

Dave C. said:
I don't think that they were the sole cause of those roll-overs. :eek:
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I agree fully



:xyxthumbs
 
Good pics!! I do every process by hand too. Takes a little longer but I feel I have a better handle on the progress (I enjoy it too!!)



The extra money I save I buy more goodies for the car.:)
 
Intel486 said:
Yhea, I can't see how you do everything by hand.
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Well, I can. Probably for the same reason when I arm wrestle my 15-year-old who benches 220 pounds and pin his arm in about a second. Been doing cars by hand for 9 years now professionally (about 8 1/2 full time).



You almost need a buffer to get the heat build up and the speed to really take stuff out.
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It would be faster, but I don't think the final results would be any better.
 
chinobox said:
Impressed as always,I still can't believe you do everything by hand, how long it took to ge those results?





By the way, maybe I missed it but what happened to Bretfraz dream truck?



:xyxthumbs
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It took me about 3 hours to buff and wax the Explorer. Including washing the exterior and detailing the interior, I put about 5.5 to 6 hours into it.



Bretfraz's dream truck? It is a pic of my neighbor's truck who used an entire bottle of wax on it and let it sit for 2 days before trying to remove the excess.
 
Scottwax said:
Well, I can. Probably for the same reason when I arm wrestle my 15-year-old who benches 220 pounds and pin his arm in about a second. Been doing cars by hand for 9 years now professionally (about 8 1/2 full time).

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I bet you are really good at... ummm nevermind :p



It would be faster, but I don't think the final results would be any better.
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What product line do you use?



I know I've encountered cars w/ so many swirls I couldn't get them out by hand. I mean, I probably could but it would involve working on them for hours and hours.



And with only my orbital I couldn't remove spiderweb swirling but the rotary, a yellow waffle pad, and Pro's Creamy Cutter and they are coming out!
 
Intel486 said:
I bet you are really good at... ummm nevermind :p
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Of course, that is all part of the plan!



What product line do you use?



I know I've encountered cars w/ so many swirls I couldn't get them out by hand. I mean, I probably could but it would involve working on them for hours and hours.



And with only my orbital I couldn't remove spiderweb swirling but the rotary, a yellow waffle pad, and Pro's Creamy Cutter and they are coming out!
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I use Meguiars Body Shop Pro line and terry cloth towels folded into 1/8ths to apply even pressure and work the product until nearly clear and dry. Obviously, some swirl marks are deep enough to require wetsanding to remove them completely, but mild to moderate swirls can be removed by hand with the right products and elbow grease.



Before:



swirls_before_websize.jpg




After:



swirls_after2_websize.jpg




I did two passes with Meguiars DACP using terry cloth to appy and remove, two passes with Meguiars Swirl Free, once with terry cloth and the second time with a foam hand pad, then once over with Meguiars Hand Polish and a foam hand pad. The pic was taken prior to waxing since the paint was only two weeks old. I did QD it every week when I would wash it. Once the paint had cured, I went over the whole Suburban with Swirl Free with a foam hand pad and then waxed with S100. It's been 2 1/2 months since then and I wash it weekly and no buffer marks.
 
Scottwax said:


I did two passes with Meguiars DACP using terry cloth to appy and remove, two passes with Meguiars Swirl Free, once with terry cloth and the second time with a foam hand pad, then once over with Meguiars Hand Polish and a foam hand pad. The pic was taken prior to waxing since the paint was only two weeks old. I did QD it every week when I would wash it. Once the paint had cured, I went over the whole Suburban with Swirl Free with a foam hand pad and then waxed with S100. It's been 2 1/2 months since then and I wash it weekly and no buffer marks.
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So you went over it by hand four times! :eek:



Guess Meguiar's DACP is some pretty strong stuff.



How did the buffer swirls get in there anyways?
 
Intel486 said:
So you went over it by hand four times! :eek:



Guess Meguiar's DACP is some pretty strong stuff.
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Starts off aggressive, but the abrasives are buffered and it has a lot of polishing oils.



How did the buffer swirls get in there anyways?
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It may not be obvious in the pictures, but the hood is an aftermarket hood with a scoop. They had to repaint it because the people who own the Suburban weren't happy with it the first time-had a run and some fisheyes in it. Apparently the paint shop has never heard of a finishing pad.



BTW, they also have the Cadillac Escalade instrument panel in it.
 
Scottwax said:
It may not be obvious in the pictures, but the hood is an aftermarket hood with a scoop. They had to repaint it because the people who own the Suburban weren't happy with it the first time-had a run and some fisheyes in it. Apparently the paint shop has never heard of a finishing pad.

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You can get that type of swirling w/ a finishing pad. Improper use, dirty pad, or a heavy compound will do it.



Most paintshops don't worry about using a polish because there are some compound which will give a high-shine, no haze finish but still leave those marks.
 
Intel486 said:
You can get that type of swirling w/ a finishing pad. Improper use, dirty pad, or a heavy compound will do it.



Most paintshops don't worry about using a polish because there are some compound which will give a high-shine, no haze finish but still leave those marks.
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The shop that fixed my Accord finished mine off with SMR and a foam waffle pad. Only found one very light swirl that I took out with DACP and a terry cloth towel, followed by Swirl Free and a foam hand pad.



Yeah, I would say dirty pads and poor technique are probably the main culprits.
 
Theres a good chance that stains not coming out no matter what cleaner you use. Give the suggestion above a shot, and if that doesn't work get a poster board and cut out an area the size of the stain and spray with a matching color carpet dye. It will probally take two or three applications, but it will look as good as new :)

You should be able to find this dye at your local Automotive Paint & Supply store :wink:
 
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