Graduating to a Rotary

TheSopranos16

TheSopranos16

New member
I'm about ready to take my detailing to the next level and get a rotary polisher. For the last couple of years I have been using a PC and while its a great tool, I wanna step it up. So I wanted to ask some of the members who have rotary experience some questions....

1) Are there any important differences between the different brands of polishers and which one would you recommend (Porter Cable, Makita, Dewalt, Milwalkee, etc.)

2) How difficult is the learning curve when going from a PC to rotary? Is there anything in particular I should know when making the transition? I've seen cars with endless holograms and buffer marks and I definately don't want my work turning out like that!

3) Which pad system to you guys prefer? The standard velcro back lake country or the Edge 2000 system? I am leaning towards the Edge but is there any reason that traditional pads might be better?

4) Do any of the popular polishes (the SSR line, Menzerna, Megs, 3M) work any better or worse with a rotary as compared to a PC? Which ones do you recommend?

5) I've watched the meguiars tutorials from Better Car Care. Is this a good guide to get me acquainted with rotary use?

Thanks in advance to any and all who respond to this thread. I really want to get the best results possible and my understanding is that you need to learn how to use a rotary in order to do that.

-Charles
 
I'm still not comfortable doing sides. Once you can produce little to no holograming on flat surfaces, I'd try the sies, at least thats my plan.

Definitely get yourself some scrap panels, secure them to saw horses with C clamps and go nuts. Even intentionally brun paint to see what you did to get that result.

I stayed with the scrap for a long time and only now feel comfortable trying it on a car ( still not mine yet though ;) ) I wont try on mine unless I have a very severe defect or until I feel comfortable polishing any surface verticle or horizonal at the proper speeds and with all of the different kinds of pads.

FWIW I use LC pads, I think Menzerna is one of the greatest lines for the rotary and sometimes I think I see that Megs video in my sleep I've watched it so much ;) :D

Good luck and practice, practice, practice and yeah, one more thing...practice :bigups
 
TheSopranos16 said:
I'm about ready to take my detailing to the next level and get a rotary polisher. For the last couple of years I have been using a PC and while its a great tool, I wanna step it up. So I wanted to ask some of the members who have rotary experience some questions....

1) Are there any important differences between the different brands of polishers and which one would you recommend (Porter Cable, Makita, Dewalt, Milwalkee, etc.)

2) How difficult is the learning curve when going from a PC to rotary? Is there anything in particular I should know when making the transition? I've seen cars with endless holograms and buffer marks and I definately don't want my work turning out like that!

3) Which pad system to you guys prefer? The standard velcro back lake country or the Edge 2000 system? I am leaning towards the Edge but is there any reason that traditional pads might be better?

4) Do any of the popular polishes (the SSR line, Menzerna, Megs, 3M) work any better or worse with a rotary as compared to a PC? Which ones do you recommend?

5) I've watched the meguiars tutorials from Better Car Care. Is this a good guide to get me acquainted with rotary use?

Thanks in advance to any and all who respond to this thread. I really want to get the best results possible and my understanding is that you need to learn how to use a rotary in order to do that.

-Charles
Click to expand...


First off, Congrats :)

Second, what Bill said. Practice on junkers. Watch them Meguiar's Videos over and over. Menzerna is made for rotary so it is definately top dog with the rotary.

1) I read a TON of info on rotaries and ended up with the Makita. It was between that and the DeWalt. People mentioned the DeWalt being substantially heavier than the Makita. Doing up to 3 jobs per day, a heavier machine would affect my performance.

2) As long as you don't use a wool pad at 2000rpm with heavy cut compound then you shouldn't see the majority of those problems. The key is getting the right pad, product, speed, and pressure down for the job. Like Bill said, practice... You will learn that ALL paints are different and they like different products. I know that Ford's work great with #80 Speed Glaze, but if I take #80 to a Mopar vehicle, I am gonna have a lot of marring behind. I am still learning which products compliment each paint job the best, but so far Menzerna pretty much takes the cake in all categories.

3) I tried the Edge at the PB meet, but am still using LC. Probably mostly because the LC last a long time and do an exceptional job.

4) Menzerna, as stated above.

5) Keep watching :)


Honestly, I'd contact Clean Dean since I know he is near you. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pay him to teach you the ropes. As the video's help a ton, hands on experience with a mentor there helps even more.


Hope this all helps.
 
1) I use a Milwaukee and while it is heavier than most, It is a very well balanced machine.
2) There is a learning curve ... Learn all you can up front ... practice ... ask questions ... practice ... ask questions ... etc.
3) I have just switched over to the Edge 2000 system. Their wool pads are some of the better ones I have used and I really like their foam pads. You can use the same foam pads from your PC on the rotary. Smaller pads make it easier to learn the machine and it saves some money up front.
4) I have used Meguiars Products for years and find them some of the safest to use on the rotary. They seem to have more oils in them to help with lubrication. A couple favorites are Fine Cut Cleaner, DACP, Swirl Free Polish. I also use Poorboys SSRs.
5) Great guide to get started. Plus, take a look at this:
http://www.autobodystore.com/rsw.htm

Good luck ... You will wonder how you got along without the rotary.
 
kimwallace said:
1) I use a Milwaukee and while it is heavier than most, It is a very well balanced machine.
2) There is a learning curve ... Learn all you can up front ... practice ... ask questions ... practice ... ask questions ... etc.
3) I have just switched over to the Edge 2000 system. Their wool pads are some of the better ones I have used and I really like their foam pads. You can use the same foam pads from your PC on the rotary. Smaller pads make it easier to learn the machine and it saves some money up front.
4) I have used Meguiars Products for years and find them some of the safest to use on the rotary. They seem to have more oils in them to help with lubrication. A couple favorites are Fine Cut Cleaner, DACP, Swirl Free Polish. I also use Poorboys SSRs.
5) Great guide to get started. Plus, take a look at this:
http://www.autobodystore.com/rsw.htm

Good luck ... You will wonder how you got along without the rotary.
Click to expand...

I totaly agree with everything that yoiu posted with the exception of the Edge 2000 system as I have not tried them yet.

The Meguiars line is superb when learning to use the rotary as is using the small pads. The smaller pads will keep the rotary hop down and allow you to have better control of the machine.

I love my Milwaukee, but I am use to the weight. I have used the Makitta before and it is a fine tool.

It is also easier to buff if you keep your body centered over the polisher and don't allow your arms to extend too far away from your center of gravity. Doing this will fatigue your arms and hands more quickly and you will not have proper control of the machine. Hard to explain, but you will see what I mean when you start buffing.

Good luck!!
 
All polishers talked about above are good. Pick one that feels good in your hands and fits your budget. As for pads Lake Countrys pads work the best for me. I have used the 3M pads but they dont hold up. Didnt like the Edge pads they really loaded up with product. The curved outer edge of the Lake Country pads really work great around curvey parts of the cars where you are more apt to burn the paint. The concaved center helps reduce the slinging of your product of choice. I would buy the orange cuting pad the white polishing pad and the black or blue finishing pad. Use the smaler pads for control as mentioned.
For product I would Try the 3M Perfecit-it III foam pad polishing Glaze. You can use this one product with all your pads. You can remove 3000 grit sanding marks with a wool pad and this product. I would operate at 1200 to 1500 RPM.
You should do just fine. You always have your PC as back up to remove any swirls you might put in your finish.
 
Thanks everyone for the good advice so far. Based on what everyone is saying, I'm leaning towards the Makita since its the lightest and cost really isn't a factor since they are all within 50 bucks or less of each other. The only thing i'm still not positive about is the pads, edge or lake country. I already have a decent amount of lake country pads from the PC, so perhaps I would be best off getting a backing plate for the rotary and then I don't have to buy any new pads. But, if the edge pads are superior, then I wouldn't mind purchasing them either. It seems to me like the quick connect system is a good idea, but its really not that hard to change a foam pad either. I guess the thing thats most important is the foam itself and of corse the shape of the pad. Maybe I'll do a search on this topic as i'm sure people have debated this before.

Again thanks for the responses and keep em comin!!!
 
LC pads have the variable contour, Edge pads are flat-faced.
LC offers 3 main pad choices, while Edge offers 5:

Black- similar to wool pad, but does haze a bit more IMO.

Yellow- Similar to Meg's Maroon.

Green- similar to LC yellow.

Blue- similar to LC white.

White- similar to LC grey/ black.
 
TheSopranos16 said:
The only thing i'm still not positive about is the pads, edge or lake country. I already have a decent amount of lake country pads from the PC, so perhaps I would be best off getting a backing plate for the rotary and then I don't have to buy any new pads. But, if the edge pads are superior, then I wouldn't mind purchasing them either. It seems to me like the quick connect system is a good idea, but its really not that hard to change a foam pad either.
Click to expand...

I bought myself a Makita 9227C two weeks ago and haven't got the chance to use it yet...it came with a wool pad :wait. I'm still unsure as well what pads to get, the Edge 2K pads look good as they are double sided (twice the durability>?) but we have to purchase the quite pricey adaptor . Do keep us update on what you ended up getting k :phone: . I'll probably made the purchase in 2/3 weeks time
 
I have my dewalt849 and the weight of it really isnt that bad. IMHO the machine is very well balanced and is not heavy when doing side panels. I know that Wifehatescar thought there was a big difference between his Makita an dmy dewalt, he prefered hi makita. I guess it is really a personal call and if you can find them at a tool store locally check out both of them with hands on so you can get a feel for the machines before clicking the BUY button.
IMHO PB's seems to be a little easier to use when you first start out with the rotary. Menzerna is a close second in my book.
I just purchased a few Edge pads and I have to say I like the fact that they are centered everytime...with ease. They work pretty good too, I havent had any problems with them caking up fast with products (like mentioned above). I do tend to clean the pad off a little after every couple panels though.
 
scottabi said:
I have my dewalt849 and the weight of it really isnt that bad. IMHO the machine is very well balanced and is not heavy when doing side panels. I know that Wifehatescar thought there was a big difference between his Makita an dmy dewalt, he prefered hi makita. I guess it is really a personal call and if you can find them at a tool store locally check out both of them with hands on so you can get a feel for the machines before clicking the BUY button.
IMHO PB's seems to be a little easier to use when you first start out with the rotary. Menzerna is a close second in my book.
Click to expand...

The Makita is like 20-30% lighter...the PC feels like a feather after using even the Makita. The DeWalt felt like a ton of bricks :brick Screw "well-balanced", it was heavy! Maybe I'm just weak :lol

After experimenting all year, I'm liking LC 7.5" pads and Menzerna best for rotary. (and Edge pads/PB's SSRs for PC use fwiw)
 
Sean is spot on! A few things to add to the comments above:

1) If you can't get a hold of any 'junk' panels, then keep the RPM's low (1000-1200) and ONLY use foam pads. Do this until you feel comfortable. Even at low speeds the rotary can do things above and beyond the PC. I really like the edge pads, but if you have a brand you like stick with it.

2) 90% of what I do with a rotary is with a polishing pad. Cutting pads and compounds ARE NOT for someone starting out. Trust me here... I've learned the hard way.

3) You HAVE to tape off the car/truck. Door jams, cover the windows wiper sills, emblems etc... Welcome to the wonderful world of sling clean up! I usually just plan on S&W or washing the car when I'm done using the rotary.

4) The rotary has a completely different feel than the PC. I'm used to working the PC with my arms. If you do that with the rotary it'll feel like you have a wild animal on your hands and/or you'll experience 'buffer hop'. I work the rotary more with my torso vs. my arms. You'll know right away when you get the 'feel' of the machine because it's amazing just how light and easy it feels.

5) DON'T push/bog down the rotary like you do on the PC. Let the machine do the work. The rotary is POWERFUL.

6) DON'T run the rotary across any edges, curves, contours. Rule of thumb: If you can't keep the pad completely flat, don't even attempt it.

I use a Dewalt. It's a solid, well built machine BUT as others have said, try a few out (if possible) and pick the one that fits & feels best to you. Don't be afraid of it, because it's they are awesome tools. I've used one for a few years, and I still have A LOT to learn about product, pad, speed combinations. I'm convinced that the #1 reason you hear horror stories and bad comments about the rotary is because folks with no knowledge and/or training pick up the rotary and 'let it fly'.
 
One last piece of advise....

Keep moving! The rotary isn't like the PC where you can run it with one hand, reach back and have a swig of brew and then get back to it. The rotary commands your focus and attention.

Good luck. It's a good investment and you'll be amazed with the results.

As Sean said, you really can't go wrong with the menzerna line. The kit is a pretty good place to start. I'd suggesst buying a back up 32oz bottle of FPII, and also getting a 32oz bottle of IP (which doesn't come with the kit). I wouldn't attempt anything with Power Gloss until you've had some seat time.
 
Yeah, Menzerna produces ready to wax or near ready to wax conditions in a short amount of time. It's truly amazing!
 
The first time I tried using a rotary I bought some LC 8.5" tufted foam pads with velcro backing 'cause I was too chicken to try wool and came away with great results & no paint damage. I picked up a yellow tufted pad & a white tufted pad from ScottP & found them to be very forgiving.

I've only done 3 cars with the rotary so I'm really green at this but I had great results using both SSR2.5, Menzerna products, and Pinnacle Swirl Removers.

Only suggestions I can make are: keep the speed down, be prepared for "pad hop", keep the pad level with the surface, and when you come to an edge, like the top of a fender or the edge of the hood if the hood/fender gap is misaligned, keep the rotation of the pad moving away from the edge.

Explanation: if you had water on the hood, you'd cup your hand and sweep the water away (off) the hood and that's keeping your hand-action moving away from the edge. Kind of like sweeping bread crumbs off a table.

If the rotation of the pad is moving into the edge, then you'll quickly find out how unforgiving a rotary can be because too much energy (abrasion & heat)is being focused on that one spot on the edge.

This is an issue that never crosses your mind when using a PC but it's something you must be aware of when using a rotary until it becomes second nature.
 
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