Got Klasse AIO on my black plastic trim

B

bassett72

New member
So, I try to be careful, but I accidentally ran my PCDA over the trim that goes around the wheel well on our 2022 Honda Pilot. Thought I would be OK, but now it is showing up as white.

I`ve tried a few things, but nothing seems to permanently get it off and restore it to black again.

Can someone please provide me the miracle fix for this?

Thank you!
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Solution Finish
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So does this clean the white off or does it just cover it up and I have to keep re-applying? Something I meant to asked. Have I ruined it for good or can it be cleaned up with something so I don`t have to keep applying something to cover it up?
 
This is textured trim? Is it just one spot or the entire molding? I don`t like to disagree with Ron but I think you need to clean it off, not cover it over, especially if it`s just one or two errant spots. I would try some APC and a soft brush, something like a soft toothbrush. Don`t let the APC dry, and rinse well after. Sometimes getting wax/sealant out of trim can be a real pain.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
This is textured trim? Is it just one spot or the entire molding? I don`t like to disagree with Ron but I think you need to clean it off, not cover it over, especially if it`s just one or two errant spots. I would try some APC and a soft brush, something like a soft toothbrush. Don`t let the APC dry, and rinse well after. Sometimes getting wax/sealant out of trim can be a real pain.
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It is a good portion and yes, textured. What would be the best APC to use?

Also, I didn`t think Klasse AIO was suppose to do that?
 
I`ve never seen KAIO stain trim but a magic eraser should get it off. I wonder if the pad didn`t have anything else on it. Make sure you test the magic eraser on a test area as it can change the shine level on some plastics.
 
Dan said:
Make sure you test the magic eraser on a test area as it can change the shine level on some plastics.
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This is very important, whatever you use, make sure it`s not too aggressive, that`s why I was suggesting a soft brush, but whatever it is, check to make sure it`s not changing the appearance. I remember forever ago thinking a toothbrush was a good idea to get some wax/sealant residue off the thin rubber trim around a door handle and wound up marring the paint.

Best APC? That`s hard to say, I use Optimum Power Clean these days. There is also the Duragloss Wax Eraser which they don`t seem to carry here anymore, as I recall that was a solvent-based cleaner. You could also just try some IPA with the brush, you can get the IPA at the supermarket/drug store. Again, just do a test spot to make sure the APC/IPA/agitation device isn`t changing the appearance.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
It`s been over 15 years since I`ve used KAIO with a machine, but I can see it happening, from what I remember, anyway.
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I`ll be trying a little of both (eraser and toothbrush w/IPA,etc.) there maybe tomorrow night.

With all that, KAIO has been my goto for years, but I`m open to suggestions of something that is easy to get off, but provides the shine/protection that KAIO does!?!?!? I usually follow that up with a coat of Collinites 845 to protect against the nasty salt we get all winter long here in WI. I won`t be doing this again until winter, but could try it on my summer car in the spring. I have a 97 Cobra that needs some TLC... ;-)

Also, I`ve heard of people using IPA after polishing, before waxing. Good idea or no? To me it seems like you would be messing with some chemistry here, but am curious. Heck, I already spend 4-5 hours on each car in the late fall, why not add something else in. ;-)
 
Setec Astronomy said:
It`s been over 15 years since I`ve used KAIO with a machine, but I can see it happening, from what I remember, anyway.
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I use KAIO to clean trim. As long as it isn’t chalky rubber that drinks up the stuff, I’ve never had any problems but I’m sure there is some strange interaction with all the different materials out there.
 
Dan said:
I use KAIO to clean trim. As long as it isn’t chalky rubber that drinks up the stuff, I’ve never had any problems but I’m sure there is some strange interaction with all the different materials out there.
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Yes, I agree, but I have had it crust up on the edges of panels if you are using it by machine and you have a lot on the pad and it gets hot, and it may be that the OP got a lot on the trim and it dried before he realized it.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Yes, I agree, but I have had it crust up on the edges of panels if you are using it by machine and you have a lot on the pad and it gets hot, and it may be that the OP got a lot on the trim and it dried before he realized it.
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MAYBE that is the issue. I did 3 cars in 3 days. THis was the first car. I realized that the KAIO was hard to get off after applying even if I was doing a section and taking it off right away. I was running my PCDA at little hot, on like 5. I dropped it down to 3 for the other 2 cars and it was much easier to get off. Not being an expert, but put 2 and 2 together to realize that the speed as heading the KAIO up and making it a bear to take off. I`m SLOWLY learning and I guess the hard way. :(
 
So, work has been kicking my butt. I`m just now getting to this. The good news is, the ME seems to have done the trick. WHEW. I get sick just looking at the mess I made. :-(

Now I have to decide what to protect the black trim with now that it is clean again..

In another post, I saw these recommendations: Thoughts?

  • Poorboy`s Trim Restore or Stoner`s Trim Shine.
  • Chemical Guys Extreme Liquid Shine
  • PB`s Trim Restorer
  • Megs #38.

OH, and when applying the KAIO in the future, should I have my PC DA buffer on like 2. I started on 5, then not even knowing the damage I did to the trim, noticed it was a bit hard to get off so I moved it to 3. Maybe 2 is better?

Thanks everyone!
 
I`d tape off the trim or use a different product, or quickly go over the trim by hand with KAIO like Dan recommends (I must have done this too but it`s been so long ago) hoping that will remove any residue.

My personal recommendation for trim protection is Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant (WETS). If the car is still "new" and the trim isn`t faded, a product like Optimum Opti-Seal might surprise you and supplant your Klasse products. Full Disclosure: I`m still on my bottle of original version Opti-Seal, it`s gone through at least one reformulation after that, and now has had ceramic added to it, so it may no longer be as idiot-proof as my version.
 
bassett72 said:
So, work has been kicking my butt. I`m just now getting to this. The good news is, the ME seems to have done the trick. WHEW. I get sick just looking at the mess I made. :-(
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I;`m late to this thread, but it caught my attention because I used KAIO (topped with either KSG or Collinite`s 476S) on my exterior black trim for ages with no problems at all. But the, I never let it dry on those surfaces either and I suppose all trim isn`t the same.
Now I have to decide what to protect the black trim with now that it is clean again..
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FWIW, I use Ultima`s Tire & Trim Guard Plus ("UTTG+"), which I then maintain with a spray wax.
OH, and when applying the KAIO in the future, should I have my PC DA buffer on like 2. I started on 5, then not even knowing the damage I did to the trim, noticed it was a bit hard to get off so I moved it to 3. Maybe 2 is better?
Click to expand...
Some sorta-random thought follow:

IME the trick is to not use such a high speed that it dries/flashes off too much. I used 4 when I was using a PC and I didn`t use my Cyclo as it was too fast.

That said, I`ve never had any reason to run a PC at less than 3.

I always tried to buff the KAIO off before it dried completely, even on paint, but especially on trim (same with the KSG/476S on trim when I use that instead of the UTTG+).

I always use a damp (with water) applicator/pad with KAIO and I clean it out/replace it frequently so it`s not loaded with old product.
 
Dan said:
I`ve never seen KAIO stain trim...
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I wouldn`t call it "stain", but I did have KAIO alter plastic trim in a way you can still see 10 years later.

The area where the side mirror attaches to the door on a 2010 Mazda3 hatchback is a lower grade, satin-ish finish black plastic. I once tried to apply KAIO to the area by hand when covering the entire car when it was only a year or two old. The AIO seemed to "etch" the plastic. If memory serves, KAIO gets it`s AIO title from chemical cleaners vs abrasives and was one of the reasons it was created to be a bottom layer from Klasse SG. The area in question became chalky in appearance and felt a bit rougher to the touch. I haven`t tried Solution Finish, but no other cleaner or trim restoring product has ever been able to restore that particular area on the car. You can still see the marks going back to around 2011. Oddly enough the trim on that one area of the car is different from all the other plastic trim and it was the only area to suffer from KAIO.
 
Desertnate- Huh, that`s something! I`m glad you posted about it since so many of us have been in the "go ahead and use it on that.." camp for so long. Gee, I used it on Mazda exterior trim lots of times...this goes to show that you just never know for sure until you do something yourself.
 
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