going to try pb ssr2.5, what are your opinions on this?

A

andrew300

New member
as of right now my go to light to medium swirl remover is megs dacp but i think i want to try something else and was thinking the poorboys ssr 2.5. I dont know but dacp is weird. i swear sometimes it doesnt do a thing and then the next time it does a perfect job. but on my gfs car, i was working the crap out of dacp and it didnt even get all of them out so do you think ssr 2.5 would be better at getting swirls out? i know dacp would be better on scratches but how about swirls? any comparisons on these 2 products for removing swirls? i heard it is about the same but even if it is ill get the ssr as i heard it is a lot more easier to use.
 
*I* think 2.5 is a touch more aggresive than DACP. I dont get any variation with 2.5. I think 2.5 is better on scratches and swirls. I agree with what you have heard in respect to it being easier to use.
 
I've never used SSR 2.5, but from what I've read it is simialr to DACP. DACP can take out just about everything using a PC. The key to swirl removal with the PC is to use moderate pressure, high speed on the machine (6), and make very very slow overlapping passes. Using an aggressive cutting pad will achieve your goal much faster.



You should be able to use DACP just as good as the SSR 2.5. Its all technique. Once you figure out how to polish with certain polishes, it becomes second nature.



When I first started using DACP, I couldn't take much out, but now I can take out almost any defect. Remember, don't be afraid to put some heavy pressure on the pad. It will not harm the paint. If your scared it will, do a pass with the PC, then feel the paint with your hand. It will not be hot.
 
yea i know how to use it but i needed something just a touch more aggressive and i hate how dacp buffs off and that you have to work it in so much, but i do agree it can take out most anything thats light to moderate
 
In that case, you might want to give Meguiars #2 Fine Cut Clealer a try. I've read a few posts that people have used it with the PC. I think that its the next step up in the Meg's line from DACP.



Yes, your right about DACP being tough to buff off if you don't work it in for awile. Thats why keeping the PC at the highest speed helps. Keeping speeds at 6 vs 5 almost cuts the time in half for the product to beakdown and polish out nicely.
 
I have DACP, and SSR2.5. I like them both. Of the two, the SSR2.5 is easier to work, and works really well with a PC. The SSR2.5 breaks down quicker than DACP. While they seem to be similar in abrasiveness, I think DACP is a bit better at removing nastier defects..................... partly because of the longer "break down" time of the DACP. I believe that having to work the product longer removes more of the defects. Having said that, I usually always grab the SSR2.5 first to see if it will get the job done because of it's ease of use. I also like how SSR2.5 leaves the finish. If done correctly, you can go right to your LSP. On the other hand, DACP sometimes leaves some marring/hazing that needs to be cleaned up with a finer polish.



Again, both are fine products.
 
SSR 2.5 is a great product...one that will make a beginner's confidence grow. 2.5 breaks down well before DACP, is awesome on swirls, and leaves little if any marring behind. The only bad thing about it is that if you work it too long you a lot of dusting; with a light colored car it can be difficult to tell by appearance when the product breaks down...after 3 or 4 uses I got used to it. 2.5 also wipes/buffs off easier and leaves less marring behind.



DACP is a good product...SSR 2.5 is just better IMHO.
 
No experience with the SSR2.5, but I wil say that I don't like DACP, just not user-friendly enough for me. Oh, and I didn't like using #2 on b/c either. I used it back in the day on ss, but when I tried it recently on b/c is left too much (not so micro)marring for my taste, even with the rotary. Nasty marring when used by PC.



For an aggressive product I use 3M PI-III RC or, when I need something stronger, 1z Ultra/Extra. Hi-Temp's Lite and Medium Cut are worth considering too (check out TOL for Hi-Temp stuff).



But if the SSR2.5 works for you, then stick with that, plenty of people like it.
 
I'm pretty new as this but these are my experiences:



Shake any product before you use it, even if the label does not say to do so .... just an old habit.



I've used SSR2.5, IP, and Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover with a yellow LC pad and I can honestly say I got my best results using SSR2.5. I probably could have gone right to LSP after using SSR2.5 if not for my inexperience so I followed it with FPII just because I thought I should.



IMHO, the SSR's are designed with the obsessive hobbiest in mind that's more likely to be using a PC or a Cyclo than a rotary but I think you'll be pleased with the results even if you used SSR2.5 by hand.



The results I achieved using SSR2.5 were way beyond my perceived abilities & exceeded my most ambitious hopes.
 
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