Glass cleaning

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imported_pdsterns

New member
I read a 2 page article today in "Excellence" about window cleaning and it came down to using Huck surgical towels and distilled water and buffing with clean dedicated MF. I think I like the sound of the distilled water but not sure it will remove much grime. Thinking of IG then finishing with the distilled water and the buff, any thoughts? The main thought was that distilled water has nothing in it that can streak or leave and residue.
 
Distilled water will not cut plastizer film from the interior that becomes deposited on the glass as the degassing takes place.

It will not be effective for removing smoke film or if one has used a lot of dressing on the interior, it also releases a film.

Use of dedicated, formulated for automotive glass is the proven chemical.

Huck towels are great, if used correctly and washed correctly.

1. Mist the glass cleaner "evenly" on the subject glass, allow it to dwell for a few seconds, if it starts to dry, remist.

2. Fold the huck/surgical towel in to 1/4 folds.

3. Place the folded towel on the glass and apply light even pressure (think of sanding wood with sand paper, if you just bunch up the paper and "kinda go at it" there will be uneveness in the wood. The same when cleaning glass, need even pressure.

4. Have a second, folded huck/surgical towel and use it to remove the residue of the glass cleaner.

5. When doing the inside glass, wipe in side to side motions or up and down-this is important.

6. When doing the outside glass, wipe in the opposite direction that the inside glass was done.

7. Inspect and any "smears" can be easily identified and wiped off with the dry "wipe off huck towel".

8. Wash huck/surgical towels seperate from any other towels, especially those used for compounds, polishes, waxes, sealants or dressings. The residue from these products can get into the huck towel and then release when the glass cleaning process is performed.



#Micro fiber towels are also good for that final dry the glass wipe off.

#The natural "fibers" of the huck towels do a better agitation of the glass during the wet cleaning process than a micro fiber due to the more agressive fiber content.



Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
5. When doing the inside glass, wipe in side to side motions or up and down-this is important.

6. When doing the outside glass, wipe in the opposite direction that the inside glass was done.



Grumpy
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Grumpy,



You literally just blew my mind. This makes so much sense, especially with how finnicky it can be to clean windshields. I'm putting this one into practice ASAP.



Also, any advice on the best place to purchase huck towels? Google is turning up many many many results.
 
Locate the "linen service" for your area that services hospitals, etc.

New ones don't work as well as old ones and they have tons of them.

They usually sell them by 50 lb bundles or they did.

Cost is going to vary on what demand they are having for the used, cleaned towels or if they have a deal with bulk purchaser who resells them.

Good luck.

Grumpy
 
Grumpy, I think you have some good ideas there and I pretty much follow your practices but I do not keep my glass cleaning MFs seperate from others. A year ago or so I felt I DID much better on glass but have gone down hill even tho I do it the same thing. I'm going to buy some used Huck's and start keeping glass stuff seperate from other stuff, maybe some DI water for a final try.



thanks
 
Ron, I just picked up 200 lbs of the grade A reclaimed huck towels. They are all a little different in shade and some sizes, but you buy by the lb- can't really complain. Most of them are the typical blue and about 14x24 or so. They are washed, but not folded all nice and neat. 70 cents each if you need some! Rob
 
Adding to what Grumpy said:



Having a pair of gloves, like the ones called, mad grip, available here at Pep Boys keeps the cloth in your hand better and makes more of the effort hit the glass. This is particularly helpful if you're using glass specific microfiber towels, hucks not so much. Also, wrapping a new/clean sponge with your cloth helps keep the pressure even on the glass and also greats more surface area of contact over just your hand. Finally, laying down on the front seat so you're looking up at the glass puts the glass in front of you and makes reaching the whole thing with pressure a lot easier.



Robert
 
I can send you some huck towels for the price of shipping. You only need a few, but I have access to a lot since my wife works for a hospital.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
New ones don't work as well as old ones and they have tons of them.
Click to expand...



In my ongoing quest for a more effective solution to cleaning glass, I bought few dozen new huck towels months ago to use for this purpose. It took several washes to just get the stiffness out of them. They also tend to shed although that trait seems to have diminished (that may just be the nature of these specific towels I bought). Some of them also had a tendency of leaving a film on glass which I though was odd (that characteristic began to subside with subsequent cleanings as well).



I do notice that they seem to "scrub" better than other towels I've used but I can't get past my linting issue. What's worse is that I have a really bad problem with "off gassing" in my 2010 Challenger. ....more so than I have ever experienced in any other new car I've owned. Typically, this issue would noticeably subside after a few months in my other vehicles and would nearly disappear after a couple of years or so. .....or at least become manageable. With my Dodge, the rear window and windscreen will have a heavy film within a week. ....and maybe to a lesser degree every two weeks during the colder winter months. This is after two years of ownership. :(
 
These days I get great results from a technique involving a California Water Blade, a dedicated sponge, Huck towels, or MFs of choice.



I've been using the Meguiars Detailer line glass cleaner for a while now but plan to experiment with 50:1 3D glass cleaner soon.



I spray down the glass, agitate with the sponge, then squeegee with the the CWB. Doing this in the interior involves covering the dashboard with towels first.



Whatever cleaner is left behind on the glass I wipe away with Huck towels, Griots wipes, or MFs. I mix things up because sometimes one may work better than the other.



This technique works very well and it really cuts the salt deposits from the sea air in my area. I started doing it because I have to constantly clean my glass of film and this proved pretty effective.
 
Bill D said:
..I've been using the Meguiars Detailer line glass cleaner for a while now but plan to experiment with 50:1 3D glass cleaner soon..
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I've heard that the 3D works best when mixed about 30:1.



What dilution do you/should I use with the Meguiar's. That's right...sheesh :o I'm only now getting set to try it!







Whatever cleaner is left behind on the glass I wipe away with Huck towels, Griots wipes, or MFs. I mix things up because sometimes one may work better than the other.
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I'm still finding the Griot's wipes to be the best thing for that final wipe.



This technique works very well and it really cuts the salt deposits from the sea air in my area. I started doing it because I have to constantly clean my glass of film and this proved pretty effective.
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Huh, I never thought of that..but yeah, up here the winter salt-mess is a royal PIA to clean off.
 
Accumulator said:
I've heard that the 3D works best when mixed about 30:1.
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I've got the 3D mixed at their 50:1 prescribed ratio. I've been somewhat underwhelmed by the product (compared to Meg's D120). I'll try strengthening the solution to see if that helps.



I mix the D120 at 10:1.
 
I have experimented with terry cloth and microfiber applicators for the scrubbing wipe then a drying wipe with a ww mf.



These have a lot of bite:



autogeek_2204_44309046.gif
 
Bunky said:
I have experimented with terry cloth and microfiber applicators for the scrubbing wipe then a drying wipe with a ww mf.



These have a lot of bite:



autogeek_2204_44309046.gif
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....interesting. Where did you source those from?
 
Kean said:
....interesting. Where did you source those from?
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I got them from Proper Auto Care.



AG picked up the stock and has been doing closeout sales (now on BOGO). Unlike some mf applicators, they are quite well made (do not lose shape) and durable (no degradation in construction) but not likely paint safe given the stiff edging.
 
Automotive formulated glass cleaners use IPA as the base solvent.

Several things should be addressed when formulating of a glass cleaning product.

Such as using the correct surfactant in the formula that will increase the ability of the product to 'cut" plastizer deposits, smoke deposits, etc.

These are important, however, the use of some surfactants that may be fine for cloth, vinyl, etc, when added into the IPA formula, often will create permanent "spotting" of the dash material if it is warm when the product drops on it and is not immediately wiped off.

Glass cleaners formulated for household use will clean glass, however, most have a percentage of ammonia in them and that, from time to time, may do damage to the vinyl parts as well, under the right conditions.

A quality formulated glass cleaner will also have at least one other of the "alcohol" solvent family, blended in in small percentages, to allow a longer dry time or a shorter dry time.

Lots of things to produce a quality cleaner, besides just IPA.

Grumpy
 
The glass cleaner I have been using lately is a mix of ONR and IPA. In a 16 oz bottle I add .5oz of ONR V3, 3oz of straight IPA, 12.5oz DI water. It lifts bird bombs, dirt, bugs, etc with help from ONR, but after it is wiped it flashes dry and leaves no streaks. Given it probably costs $.50 a quart when averaged out I have found it cheap to test and try on my personal vehicle.
 
Bunky said:
I got them from Proper Auto Care.



AG picked up the stock and has been doing closeout sales (now on BOGO). Unlike some mf applicators, they are quite well made (do not lose shape) and durable (no degradation in construction) but not likely paint safe given the stiff edging.
Click to expand...
Thanks Bunky. I'll check them out.
 
I've been a huge fan of the WW MF towels for cleaning glass, but as stated already you need to wash them seperately from your wax/polish/etc. towels and pads otherwise they won't absorb anymore due to oils being left on them. Throwing in some white vinegar with your microfibers can help restore them if they've already been comprimised by washing together with wax and polish-covered towels.
 
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