Giving 1Z a shot!

Nates

New member
I think I'm going to be trying out the 1z polishing products, but would like to know how they compare in abrasiveness levels and fill levels compared to 3m's Finesse it II and their SMR. I'm rarely ever detailing a car with as fine a finish as would require Metal Polish so I'm looking at PP and UPP. If anyone can help I would appreciate it, I understand they are probably very different products that may operate in different ways, I just want to know where I can expect them to perform in relation to the benchmark products that I have used so far. Thanks.
 
I think they are decidedly easier to use than the 3M polishes. I haven't used FI II, but I have used SMR and would give the nod to PP over it any day. PP has more bit IMO than the SMR and UPP I would guess has more bite than FI II because its more aggressive than Megs. DACP. They stay wetter longer for better application by hand, orbital, or rotary. I give them 2 thumbs up.
 
Nates- Welcome to Autopia. I'm pretty sure you'll like the 1Z polishes.



It's been a while since I've used FI-II, but I'll give you my $0.02.



The UP is more aggressive than the FI-II and doesn't leave quite as fine a finish, at least for me. Following up with the PP *does* make for a very nice finish; it removes the micromarring left by the UP.



The PP is more aggressive than the 3M SMR, and must be worked thoroughly to fully break down. Although PP leaves wax behind, it is different from the fillers in the SMR in that there seems to be less of the temporary concealment that SMR provides. Good, in that you have a better idea of what condition your paint is really in; bad in that, well, less marring is hidden if it's still there.



The waxes in PP provide far more protection than the 3M products. If you don't immediately apply your LSP, you'll be OK until the next wash and you can just do it then.



As Greg said, the 1Z polishes stay wet a long time. Try to work them until they pretty much go away. It's not like you'll work them too long.



I use a cutting pad with the UP, then switch to a cutting pad with PP. Then a polishing pad with PP. You might try experimenting with just UP/polishing, but the above 3-step process works best for me. I work the polishes a little while at a sorta slow (for me) speed like 4 so the abrasives don't break down too fast, then I speed it up to 6. Most of the work ends up getting done at 6, the slow speed is just when I start out. I've used these with the Cyclo (fixed speed, sorta fast) with great results, so they appear to be pretty tolerant of different application methods.
 
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