Getting back into detailing, advice needed.

9

94 NDTA

New member
I've been a member of Autopia since 2003 (having trouble getting old s/n to work).

I have had a looming project that has finally been completed, now it's time to get her back into shape. She probably hasn't been detailed in 6 years. A lot of my stuff is expired, dusty, dirty, no good.

The good: I have brand new M105 and M205, with various pads, brand new, a PC jiggle machine, some plexus plastic polish/cleaner, some Megs QD, and some towels I got from the pack shak a long time (waffle weave drying towel that I like, and some green towels I didn't care for (may or my not have been from the pal shak) I have some aerospace 303 that I use on everything plastic/rubber that is still good, some Nevrdul that is good.

Do people still clay bar? The car has been clay bared numerous times before it was put on hiatus.

What are some good towels I can buy 6 or so off. The ones I have no will be moved to door jam/engine bay duty. They are dusty and have fibers stuck in them that I cannot seem to get out. Also, when I wash them, they feel like they are coated in wax, and don't obsorb very well if I QD.

The car is fairly clean, just dusty from sitting and somewhat dirty from road tests.

I need: a good soap, a good wax (loved S100, if p21s is still a good option) towels, a QD, clay bar (maybe) glass cleaner (windex and then wax still an option?) polish pads for polishing by hand.

I I also need these things less expensive. I am on a budget.

I also need advice on my chrome rims. I am pretty sure the are clear coated chrome (zr1 rims from SLP). What to clean/coat/wax them with. I use to use the Nevrdul, but don't know if that's a good option.

any other tips or advice is appreciated.

things too keep in mind, this is not a DD, it's more of a garage queen.

Aaaaaand go!
 
94 NDTA- Welcome Back!

I still use Griot's Car Wash, but now I mix it with HD Pink.

Yeah, some of us still clay (myself included), others use "contamination removal towels" instead.

Good MFs- check out The Rag Company and Microfiber Madness. PakShak stuff is still fine IMO. Might oughta get some better detergent so your new ones don't go bad like your old ones apparently have.

There are far better Glass Cleaners than Windex IMO, most any "major detailing product co." as something I'd prefer over that.

P21S/S100 doesn't last/protect *nearly* well enough for me, and I'm not a fan of its looks either. I wax most everything with FK1000P or Collinite 476S.

I'd be *VERY* careful about using NevrDull on those wheels, I'm quite concerned it'd be very harmful to their finish. I'd just do a light polishing, maybe just some AIO, and coat them with something like Optimum GlossCoat or just wax them with the FK1000P (both approaches work fine for me).
 
Soap- Meg's Hyper Wash / 3D Pink

Wax- HD Poxy

Towels- Rag Co. Coal Miners

Wheel Polish- DG 501. (AIO but cleans chrome very well with protection- that lasts even for wheels- built in.)

Windows- same as Accumulators. OTC- Stoner's Invisible Glass.
 
firebird said:
Welcome back! I want to get a towel and give up clay. If you pay shipping, you can have the clay. PM me.
Click to expand...
Is clay really necessary with polishing? Doesn't it take most of the contaminants out? I actually went ahead and bought a P21s cleaning kit with wax shampoo wheel cleaner, glass cleaner, and other stuff. I never had any issues with S100, and I always loved the look. The car gets driven 1500 miles a year, tops. Longevity is not a huge issue. Looking like I still need a bucket, MF towels, a mitt, some applicators, some chrome/stainless steel polish, and something to seal the wheels. Anyone think of anything else?

Looks like I asked the same question in 2007, lol.
http://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing/121356-clay-bar-polish-worth.html?highlight=94ndta
 
So,
Wash, clay, m105 on the parts that need it, m205, paintwork cleanser (if I need to use it I guess) p21s carnauba.

did I miss anything?
 
94 NDTA- I'd really like to talk you out of the P21s and into something better, but that's just me and other than that you have the right plan. Might not even really need to strip the M205's oils if you're using the P21s, but watch for "flaws that come back" or gradually diminishing gloss if you don't.
 
In the past, I would go right to s100 from m205 and I thought the car looked fantastic. I never had longevity issues, and I already bought it, so it's getting used.

If if you were to provide me with more hard evidence that it is bad, I would be more apt to change, but I was shocked how long it lasted when I used it, as far as water beading up. I know UV protection can break down, but I don't really know how to test if that fails.
 
After much debate, I moved my current towels to under the hood/door jamb duty. I got a starter kit from rag co, plus a couple extra towels. Picked up some nufinish for wheel sealant, armor all tire foam for wheel wells, nevr dull for my exhaust, p21s kit for wash, wax, wheel cleaner, mothers claybar (I loved their QD that comes with it), 303 for plastic/wheels. A couple of my tires look from on the sidewalks, and they have since I bought them new. They were shipped to me, and think got scuffed on the sides. What works well to restore them to black, 303 is not enough.

I will say, the adds they have in the P21s kit with a mid 90s BMW and McLaren are a little unsettling, but I loved the look and don't mine waxing it once a month. I only drive it a couple months out of the year.

I will maybe post before and after later. Any tips always appreciated.
 
I thought I would bump this. My TA has been neglected for a LONG time while I did the h/c swap on it. The paint was in ok shape, but the fenders were pretty swirled from working on it, as well as the hood.


While doing the h/c swap, I took off the hood and set it on the ground. My dog some how got out in the back of our house, raced around it, and turned the corner into the garage. In the process, she didn't see my hood, and my 55 lb lab skidded all the way across the hood that had about 1/4 of dust on it. She had an oh xxxx look on her face the whole time. I was pretty upset, as my factory 20 year old Gm paint was in pretty decent shape. Here is the before picture after wash and clay.




This is using a PC, yellow pad, and M105, I haven't even followed it up with m205 or wax.


Super impressed. It's about 99% gone.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    518.9 KB · Views: 5
Here we go, round 2.

Before, thanks to my lab, Sasha.
[FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]
image52.jpg

[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]
image51.jpg

[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]
image50.jpg


and after.

[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]
image49.jpg

[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]
image48.jpg
[/FONT]
 
94 NDTA said:
In the past, I would go right to s100 from m205 and I thought the car looked fantastic.

I never had longevity issues, and I already bought it, so it's getting used.

If if you were to provide me with more hard evidence that it is bad, I would be more apt to change, but I was shocked how long it lasted when I used it, as far as water beading up. I know UV protection can break down, but I don't really know how to test if that fails.
Click to expand...

It will work just fine, use up what you have in stock....

Plus your car is white, you have no idea how fortunate that is.....:D

Nice results btw.....:cheers:
 
Yep, car is white so it is difficult to make it look super great or bad. If you had a darker colored car I might suggest something else, but looks to me like you have all you need to make it shine like new!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top