Frustration with white single stage hood

Johnny 5

New member
Hi. Instead of performing a full blown hijack on a present SS thread, I'd like to start a new one. I am doing a free job on my parents' Land Cruiser, that as far as I know has never been garaged, waxed, detailed, you get the point- it's over 10 years old. It is my first SS, but not my first white. I think I've logged about 30 hours over the evenings last week, and this long weekend. I'm almost* done, and am trying to hold out on the 303 on exterior trim until I have finally removed the last layer of contamination (washed, then ONRd, then lots and lots of KAIO, and I hope I don't give in quite yet). I still need to seal bumpers, trim, jambs. Clean windows (though already clayed). I am particularly proud of the grille (perhaps a couple hours), and jambs (few hours of hand polishing).



There were a lot of firsts for me with this vehicle, and they included UNO, Uber pads, and 476S. I have applied the LSP already. I was proud of myself. It looked great! Whether that be with waning sunlight, or a quick look around with my little Brinkman spotlight. I can't afford the nice halogens some of you guys use. So, I finally pull the thing back into the garage, and the dim reflected light (at its specific angle) coming from the garage light shows:



1. Failure to correct on right side of hood

2. What appears to be a buffer trail on opposite side left by me (too little UNO, or a failure to keep pad flush, I dunno).

3. some RIDS



GRRR. So I immediately go to town with some Meguiar's paint cleaner in order to remove some 476S before it becomes permanent as dried concrete. I then spray some distilled water on the hood, and wtheck, it's still beading! Some parts less than others I suppose.



Do I give up and put some more LSP on, and say hey I gave it a go, or do I squeeze out the whole dang bottle of paint cleaner and go Karate Kid on the hood; correct and LSP later this week . . .



Oh yes, is white considered more difficult in judging correction success (assuming I don't have your $$$$ lighting)? Or is it SS that are? What are easiest? I've corrected white clearcoated before, a Hyundai, and I thought that came out great. I've done a few gray/silver, blue, black, etc. Never did I so blatantly miss poor correction before.



Thanks for listening to my frustration.
 
Actually you really don't need high dollar lighting for inspecting white,although you can get a 1000 watt halogen stand for about $30, what I found that works well is an inexpensive incandescent trouble light. You can also get a 300 watt incandescent work light --has a round aluminum shield for around $20 at a hardware store. Incandscents really help show the real condition of the paint well at not a whole of money.
 
Thanks very much for the suggestion, I will buy one.



Have any experience removing freshly coated 476S?! :dizzy:
 
Thank you Bill, I await the master's input. I am starting to suspect that my paint cleaner doesn't do jack for wax removal. I don't have Dawn, I've never used dish soap on a car, until just right now. I used Palmolive (I also have some Seventh Generation I picked up at Target- however I would think the Palmolive should be stronger) at a pretty concentrated level. It seems to do better than the paint cleaner, as the beading is less intense now (bigger beads, farther apart, but I do think I'm still getting some).



Time to hit the shower, and do lots and lots of laundry! And grab a beer!
 
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