Fresh Paint Question

512detail

512detail

New member
Hello all,
Haven't posted in a while. Still detailing but moved to PT and got a corporate job, bought a house, yada yada yada.

Long story short I had an accident in my SRT Challenger (metallic black) and it was recently repaired and given back to me. They had to paint the entire passenger side and blend into the hood/roof/trunk..they did a pretty stellar job btw.

They advised I cannot wax or seal the vehicle for about another 30 days for the paint to degass.

So I purchased 3m hand glaze from ACC on their recommendation and also some Spray and Wipe as it says it has no silicone as well.

I used the 3m hand glaze and it is very difficult to use compared to say PB Black Hole....

Can I just use black hole? It seems it may have fillers that I dont want/need on the fresh paint.

The only other option is Megs #7 glaze but that is as fussy as the 3m hand glaze. Thats all I have and I dont really intend on buying anything else unless its OTC b/c I cannot make a small ACC order :).

Suggestions?

For maintenance I am using Spray and Wipe or Nanoskin Glide QD dilution, I also have ONR and Wolfs Mean Green if I need to rinseless in the meantime, which I'm assuming are ok to use as well.

Also, with just the hand glaze I understand it is not really providing protection...so if it rains on my car, am suppose I am risking etching much quicker than normal. Of course I have to drive this thing now that I finally got it back after 3 plus months in the body shop.

And they left the paint quite swirled, can I use Menz 4500 and 1500 on the fresh paint with my duetto or should I wait considering I cannot seal/coat in the hard work anyways.

I have never dealt with fresh paint.

Thanks in advance

-Brandt
 
512detail- For *decades* my fave product for fresh paint was Meguiar's M05 New Car Glaze..utterly foolproof. Otherwise I used the 3M IHG, never had real trouble with it but hey that's just me.

I was *adamantly* in the "no wax/sealant on fresh paint!" camp (David Fermani and I have agreed to disagree on this...we beat the topic to death a few times :D ). I always glazed fresh paint for at least 90 days and sometimes longer. Yeah, minimal protection and frequent redoing.

BUT...lately I've use OCW on fresh repaints with *zero* problems. None. I only tried it because Ford has extensively tested, and then approved, Optimum Car Wax for use on "post-production paintwork". Figured it was worth a try and OK, now I'm a believer. Paint still cured fine, hardened up just the way it was supposed to. I've done this on three vehicles that I can think of, never a problem.

You can wash it just like any other paint but it might be a bit soft so be careful not to mar it. ONR would be fine.

You can also polish/correct the fresh paint, but again it might be softer than normal until it finishes curing/outgassing/etc. I've had fresh paint that was so fragile I couldn't finish out with *anything* yet it hardened up fine after a few months. So don't panic if it's still a bit soft...wait and see how it is after a while.

I would:
-ONR wash
-correct the worst marring and see how soft it is
-either glaze with the IHG or wax with OCW
 
thanks for the heads up on OCW. I probably won't purchase any, as I guess I should have posted prior to making my July4th order. and i have far too many waxes as of right now that I am not using.

I am probably using too much 3m IHG (using about a quarter size drop for prolly a 3x3 foot area...i have tried letting it cure and wiping off right after application and its about the same either way. It makes the paint nice and buttery smooth but i feel like I am battling the miracle towel or my other nice towels and possibly marring the paint a little on removal.

I put Reload v2 on the driver side this morning...the feel from the reload side vs fresh paint with 3m IHG is ridiculously different, way more than I expected actually


I just gotta be extra aware of my car when its parked outside now b/c its not covered with Synergy anymore and bird bombs could etch very quickly
 
Follow what the painter tells you and will be fine. If he said 30 days then wait 30 days. It sounds like you used too much glaze. Try a thinner application. You are correct that it will wash off quickly. I would just wait the 30 days before touching it with a DA. I actually waited 3 months before I touched the aftermarket hood that I had painted that is on my car.

I know you don't want to buy anymore product but Meguiar's just came out with a new product for 2015 that can be used on fresh paint. It is M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze

Just another option.
 
The Guz said:
Follow what the painter tells you and will be fine. If he said 30 days then wait 30 days..
Click to expand...

I dunno, guess that'll depend on the individual painter...I've had to correct paint guys ("gee, look right here on the BASF info,..you do have a copy of this, right?") plenty of times. IME, too often they tell customers [stuff] that's simply what they've always said or otherwise in error (e.g., "no, don't wash it for a month or so" even though they've already washed/wetsanded/compounded it that very day). And they sure don't expect customers to be knowledgeable about this stuff..should've seen the one guy's face when my wife asked "how long will it keep outgassing?"
 
If it was me, I'd just wash it good 'n careful (car wash soap + ONR) just to keep it clean and not use any other products for 30 days. THEN you can apply glaze. sealants, coatings or whatever.
 
Accumulator said:
I dunno, guess that'll depend on the individual painter...I've had to correct paint guys ("gee, look right here on the BASF info,..you do have a copy of this, right?") plenty of times. IME, too often they tell customers [stuff] that's simply what they've always said or otherwise in error (e.g., "no, don't wash it for a month or so" even though they've already washed/wetsanded/compounded it that very day). And they sure don't expect customers to be knowledgeable about this stuff..should've seen the one guy's face when my wife asked "how long will it keep outgassing?"
Click to expand...

I agree it depends on the painter. Also some places do bake out after painting which will "cure" the paint faster.
 
Hi, Brandt !
Welcome back, Im glad to hear you are doing great ! Where is PT ?
Here is how I have always done it having been that Painter, starting from the very beginning and working up to that position...
When you cannot smell the paint it is completely dry...

Yes, it can be worked on when painted and dried with lights, etc., and that is perfectly fine for that stage and by those that understand that stage because they brought it there..

Enter the very nice person who had the work done and wants to keep the finish looking really great, means well, but may accidently hammer too hard or get the paint too hot, and its already hot because he is doing it outside in the sun, or right after the car was driven and the hood for example, is very hot from the engine heat alone...

This is why everyone tells you to wait that certain amount of time so that the paint, the primer, the sealer, etc., multiple layers, etc., which dries from the bottom all the way up and out, is really done...

So, in your case, Brandt, yes, you can certainly do a lot of things to the finish now, and it might all work out fine, but if it were me and I know how this all works from the get-go, I would just wait until I can no longer smell the paint products, etc., and it will be all done, settled, cured, and hard..

So, what about new car from the assembly line paint then ?
Well, for the most part its perfectly done on perfect panels, not a lot of extra anything on there, its a water based paint, and its baked on in a way that insures perfect everything.. It is dried and cured much faster because it has to now go out and endure a lot of stuff from Dealers who are not always that good at their part here either...

Glad to hear the great news about your new job, house, and all the great things that happened !
You worked hard for all this and I am so proud of you !
Dan F
 
The Guz said:
I agree it depends on the painter. Also some places do bake out after painting which will "cure" the paint faster.
Click to expand...

heh heh, I'm so used to it being baked that I didn't even mention that! Though the guy who works on my Jag doesn't do it..

I'm always surprised that the baking doesn't cut down the cure/etc. time more...almost always notice a diff in how it cuts even months out.
 
Different new-paint topic...I've noticed that the newer water-based paints do the "shrinkage'/"die-back" thing a lot worse than the older paints did...probably part of my painters' learning curves. Had sanding marks show up *long* after the painting (yeah, baked too).
 
Stokdgs said:
Hi, Brandt !
Welcome back, Im glad to hear you are doing great ! Where is PT ?
Here is how I have always done it having been that Painter, starting from the very beginning and working up to that position...
When you cannot smell the paint it is completely dry...

Yes, it can be worked on when painted and dried with lights, etc., and that is perfectly fine for that stage and by those that understand that stage because they brought it there..

Enter the very nice person who had the work done and wants to keep the finish looking really great, means well, but may accidently hammer too hard or get the paint too hot, and its already hot because he is doing it outside in the sun, or right after the car was driven and the hood for example, is very hot from the engine heat alone...

This is why everyone tells you to wait that certain amount of time so that the paint, the primer, the sealer, etc., multiple layers, etc., which dries from the bottom all the way up and out, is really done...

So, in your case, Brandt, yes, you can certainly do a lot of things to the finish now, and it might all work out fine, but if it were me and I know how this all works from the get-go, I would just wait until I can no longer smell the paint products, etc., and it will be all done, settled, cured, and hard..

So, what about new car from the assembly line paint then ?
Well, for the most part its perfectly done on perfect panels, not a lot of extra anything on there, its a water based paint, and its baked on in a way that insures perfect everything.. It is dried and cured much faster because it has to now go out and endure a lot of stuff from Dealers who are not always that good at their part here either...

Glad to hear the great news about your new job, house, and all the great things that happened !
You worked hard for all this and I am so proud of you !
Dan F
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan. PT is just part time. I basically realized I just dont have the market for what I wanted to do with detailing so I went and flexed my Masters Degree to get a corporate job.

since I still have the detail bug I only take on jobs that I really would prefer doing- its kind of nice to have that flexibility now- I kept about a dozen clients and I detail/maintenance wash their vehicles so I usually have at least one job a week.

I take on the occasional show car job when it presents itself. I just made my first haul of products for the year, convincing myself of a need for more products is quite enjoyable I have found. :)


as far as the paint..im pretty confident I can go ahead and polishthe driver side a pillar , ect as they didn't even paint that but I will probably wait...It's sad, i haven't seen this many swirls on that black paint since I first started detailing a few years ago. I will call PB about using Black Hole on fresh paint, as I have some car shows coming up and I w ould like to conceal those swirls on the non painted side at least.

I'm pretty excited about having a blank canvas to do with what I wish once its time, however.

most likely gonna go with the BF SRC compound I won last year in a on here. That stuff rocks!

Will produce a t hread on this once it gets time. I jsut dont wanna show the pics of my car util the paint looks more presentable.
 
(Accumulator shouldn't read this) If your paint is dry enough to buff it's dry enough to seal. In fact, ALL of the 3D & HD paint protectants (waxes/sealants/spray waxes/pastes) are totally fine to be used on fresh paint finishes. We actually sell them to body shops around the world that use them on fresh paint daily without any issue. If a wax/sealant actually has the ability to interfere with the drying/outgassing of fresh paint then I'd question using it all together. Body shops, painters, paint reps and paint companies are basing their opinion on info from paint used several decades ago. Times have changed dramatically.
 
David Fermani said:
(Accumulator shouldn't read this) ... Body shops, painters, paint reps and paint companies are basing their opinion on info from paint used several decades ago. Times have changed dramatically.
Click to expand...

Heh heh, I love that!

I'm open to being corrected on this (hey, I came around regarding OCW!). Also willing to keep erring on the side of caution where my own vehicles are concerned too ;)
 
I sand and buff new paint all the time. Like next day. If the painter did things "correctly" the paint should not move. You shouldn't see sand marks ect. As far as I am concerned the customer can also wax it or do whatever sealer they want.
 
I use optimum car wax on fresh paint. Also those glazes you are having trouble with aren't meant to dry on the panel like a wax. It should be put on very thin and worked into the surface. Never put it on thick and let it dry or you will mar the paint trying to get it off. I wet sand and buff next day as well. Actually within an hour with some clears I use. If paint is baked it cures faster than air dry. If you take a newly painted vehicle home and park it in the garage it is curing as long as you can smell it. It is outgassing and shouldn't be sealed. Carnuba wax etc doesn't seal
 
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