following 1z pp

Yeah, your call. It all depends on the paint. Sometimes PP leaves a ready-to-wax finish (especially if you fully break down the abrasives) and sometimes you'll notice an improvement following up with the MP.



On silver Audis, for instance, I always follow with MP, but a friend of mine (with the same paint on his wife's car) never does, he just goes straight from PP to his LSP. It's not like their car is all micromarred up or anything, not that I've ever looked at it very closely.
 
Is there a bonding problem from going from 1Z MP to EX-P? Or would this be a good combo... 1Z MP/VM/EX-P ???



Im asking because Im doing a friends 04 Tahoe tomarrow?



Thank you .. And I apologize for hijacking this thread:nono
 
Any bonding concerns can be eliminated with an alcohol wipe down. It's my standard procedure :up
 
Or you could really burnish the paint to a high gloss using Menzerna FP at high PC speed with a finishing pad. It should remove any fillers/oils/waxes from other products.
 
I use 1Z products all the time and absolutely love them. As far as I know, I am one of the few people who even uses the Glanz Wax, which I love also. I usually don't need to follow PP with anything other than my topper, but a certain person (Accumulator :rolleyes: ) has talked me into that final step. It's a step that's not a necessity but will actually make that *Autopian* difference.
 
this whole bonding thing with 1z polishes has been pissing me off recently... 1z polishes are the best and my favorite in my opinion, but the fact that they contain waxes in my mind is bad... so i always follow any 1z polish (pp, or mp) with aio, just because most things sealants dont have a problem bonding to it... correct?
 
Navindra,



Yep, I go truly over the top with an alcohol wipe down after every polishing step too.
 
i have yet to try the alochol wipe process... in the back of my mind im kinda scare to... :eek: you dont think it will have any negative effects? long term? does it dry out the paint? any effect on the clear coat?
 
Nope I do it regularly. I see they even teach the process in classes like those of valugard/autoint.
 
hmm... ill have to give it a try then... so im guessing the process would be almost as if you were using a quick detailer?
 
I only use AIO to remove the waxes left behind the 1Z stuff if I'm going on top of it with a sealant. Carnaubas should be able to go on top of it without any problem.



This is also why I use GW. I'm always using 1Z polishes so why not use their wax? It was designed to go on the polish specifically and you can go on top of that with your carnauba or just leave it alone.
 
Yeah, there are a lot of different ways to approach this and I don't see anything wrong with any of them. I even got some FP based on Gonzo's method.



I haven't used the GW simply because I'm happy with my current (rather extensive :o ) collection of LSPs.
 
I find the final result of the GW to be identical to SG but without the finikiness (spell?) of SG. SG just doesn't work for me down here in New Orleans, except for on perfect days with low humidity, whereas GW is awesome all the time.
 
JDookie- OK, that makes sense. What I prefer about the SG is the way I can layer it. The six layers on the minivan lasted 13 months (I'm only now redoing the rear hatch, most of the rest is still fine). Note that I only use this on the beaters, which I don't want to redo any more than I have to.



I do sometimes think I oughta use the GW between the MP/WPS and my carnauba so I'll probably try it after all one of these days.
 
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