Fine Cut Rubbing Compound and techniques

[imported_Indy YZF]

Last night, I was determined to get some scratches out of the hood, where the dealer had put them in the clear coat layer...I got out my PC, with yellow Meguialrs pad (polishing pad), and my 3M FCRC, and went to work...



There were 2 types of scratches I needed to address...One was what Id term micro scratches ON the clear coat, and the other Id call scratches IN the clear coat.



The first time, those ON the surface, came right out But the others were MUCH tougher...first, I was careful because I hadnt used the Fine Cut Rubbing Compound before. But I learned in short order, that this stuff was not very strong...As a matter of fact, with the PC on 6, and putting a fair amount of pressure on the PC, the scratches hardly changed at all, even though the PC was able to get the area I was working on plenty warm, if not downright hot...Maybe some smoothing of the edges, but thats all...I was surprised it wasnt more effective....Then, I slapped on my wool pad, and again applied the FCRC...This I found to be more effective....The scratches IN the clear coat were definitely knocked down some, and were now less noticeable....Matter of fact, unless you were looking for them and I told you where they were, you wouldnt find them...Of course I know where they are, though, and have no trouble seeing them. But its definitely harder to locate the scratches with the white finish on my M3. White DEFINITELY has its advantages :bounce



I was surprised about a few things...First I was surprised that the FCRC wasnt more effective at scratches IN the clear coat...Second I was surprised the PC on 6 with a polishing pad (with the fcrc) wasnt more effective...And third, I was surprised, pleasantly, that the wool pad with the fcrc didnt cause any scratching of its own...Not even any hazing was observed.



I think after going through this regimen, if the scratches IN the clearcoat are still visible, Id dispense with the PC, and take out the rotary...But before I did that, would any one care to venture any further ideas on how to tackle this type of scratch with the PC, beyond what Ive already done?



Thanks.

 

[shirtman]

I can relate to your words, Paul, as I just finished the same effort on my non-metalic clearcoated black Miata. After a LONG time wiht the 3M Fine Cut and Griots Orange polish pad, the microscratching is gone, but anything worse than that stubbornly remains. I had a couple of touchups as well that I knocked down with 2000 grit wet paper, and I had a bear of a time getting the residual scratches from the 2000 out as well. I thought that the 3M Fine cut would do the trick, and planned on following with Megs Swirl Remover. Looks great, except for where I had touched up, and where there were some existing scratches. I am not talking ones that could even be felt with a fingernail..... just light scratches.



Anyone have any ideas short of a rotary? :nixweiss



Jeff

 

[Antym15]

Nice work Paul!

I have recently had to resort to a 3 step 3M process that is very effective.



1. 3M FCRC, with wool pad and about a quarter size dollop of product, or less, to work about a 3 foot square section at a time.

I also slightly[/i] dampened the wool pad with water and worked the product in with a good amount of pressure, then gradually easing up with every set of repititious passes. I continued in this manner until the product completely dried up at wich point I was holding the polisher up, keeping most of it's weight off the paint. I continued for a minute or two even after the compound was completely dried up, but mindful to be very light handed at this stage so as not to create more swirlies. I found that by dampening the wool pad with water that I could work the product in slightly longer before it dried up. But now that I think about it...I remember reading this technique somewhere (wetting the pad), and I think it really only applies to high speed rotary BUFFERS, and not random orbit POLISHERS, because... as I've been told here many times... “polishers cannot generate the heat for potential disaster like a buffer would.� So, I'm going to try not wetting the pad next time. This step took a loooong time, you can't rush it. It's also the most potential step that has the most effect on your end results. You just gotta work that product! I mean, if I can work out some major scratches and hazing, and I mean MAJOR scratches from my clearcoat using mostly the FC compound and a crappy sears 0.5 AMP polisher, you guys should be able to do me better times ten, with your PC! And don't be afraid to put a little muscle into it when compounding for the first few passes, random orbit polishers are pretty safe, and the 3M FCRC is very safe too, and highly versatile. Tackle it!



2. 3M SMR, with a foam pad and about a quarter size dollop of product, or less, to work about a 3 foot square section at a time.

Just work it in the same way you do the compound, a little pressure at first, then the weight of the machine did most of the work, then holding it's weight up and going light on the pressure until the product just dries up bu then STOP, you don't need to take it further, as you did with the compound.



3. 3M IHG, or whatever Meg's equivalent happens to be.

Just use it by hand. It works just like wax... put it on, it hazes, then buff it off with a MF towel.



But if you guys feel hard pressed... try a more abrasive product... the next step in abrasiveness is 3M Finesse It-II.



Cheers!

Colin