Final polish, and LSP

4u2nvinmtl

4u2nvinmtl

New member
I’ll cut right to the chase, but if you’re interested the details are below my question.

What final polish would you use after heavy m101 compounding on Sliver 09 Jeep SRT8 that’s now OP free and what LSP product would look best to show off the lack of OP on Sliver paint (04889427AB – “Bright Silver Metallic”)?

I recently finished my orange peel removal project on my 09 Jeep SRT8 (OP removal thread here) and to be totally honest I was in over my head. In no time at all I got the hang of it and got the results I wanted! I used CarPro Denim OP removal pads (4inch and 5.25inch) with M101, a PC7424xp, and a lot of time.

At this point, I’m not sure what to use as my finishing polish or LSP. At first I had planned to finish with M205, and LSP with KAIO & 4-6 layers of KSG but after reading some recent post and testing my LSP over the M101 cut, I’m thinking it’s not the right move after investing 72+ hours of my time removing orange peel.

I wash and detail her weekly (year-round), so I don’t mind adding more LSP to keep it looking its best. My goal is deep, wet, glossy, reflections, above durability at a reasonable price of course. (i.e. Less than 100$ for the final polish and less than 200$ for LSP)

Note: I plan to use 4inch & 5.5inch Hydro-tech Tangerine pads for polishing via a PC7424xp and LSP by hand or the recommended method…
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
I’ll cut right to the chase, but if you’re interested the details are below my question.

What final polish would you use after heavy m101 compounding on Sliver 09 Jeep SRT8 that’s now OP free and what LSP product would look best to show off the lack of OP on Sliver paint (04889427AB – “Bright Silver Metallic”)?

I recently finished my orange peel removal project on my 09 Jeep SRT8 (OP removal thread here) and to be totally honest I was in over my head. In no time at all I got the hang of it and got the results I wanted! I used CarPro Denim OP removal pads (4inch and 5.25inch) with M101, a PC7424xp, and a lot of time.

At this point, I’m not sure what to use as my finishing polish or LSP. At first I had planned to finish with M205, and LSP with KAIO & 4-6 layers of KSG but after reading some recent post and testing my LSP over the M101 cut, I’m thinking it’s not the right move after investing 72+ hours of my time removing orange peel.

I wash and detail her weekly (year-round), so I don’t mind adding more LSP to keep it looking its best. My goal is deep, wet, glossy, reflections, above durability at a reasonable price of course. (i.e. Less than 100$ for the final polish and less than 200$ for LSP)

Note: I plan to use 4inch & 5.5inch Hydro-tech Tangerine pads for polishing via a PC7424xp and LSP by hand or the recommended method…
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Before doing anymore polishing, I would invest in a paint gauge to see how much clear you have left after the OP removal.
 
If you want to stay with Meguiar's, M205 would be a good compliment to M101. Two of my favorite sealants are Meguiar's M21 and Ultimate Wax. Both look great on silver. You could probably get away with using M205 on a finishing pad.

I posted a photo here of my car which is silver that has ultimate wax topped with M26.

http://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...-sealant-deep-wet-look-pop-2.html#post1986326

I just tried out Ameridepth, Amersiseal and Ameriwax and all three are great products.
 
Rsurfer said:
Before doing anymore polishing, I would invest in a paint gauge to see how much clear you have left after the OP removal.
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Second this. Although in my testing of the pads, I've found a removal of 2-4 microns was about standard across a couple of different cars, paints, and makes for about 90% removal of orange peel. While there is obviously a reduction of clearcoat, 2-4 microns is not USUALLY considered a huge reduction. Still would recommend the PTG as above.
 
While I agree 100% with the PTG suggestion it's too costly considering I've done most of the cutting I'm going to be doing (It's not like I do this professionally). Regardless I've gone to a couple local "professional" detailers in an attempt to borrow/rent a PTG and none of the detailers I went to use one. They explained the PTG only tells how far to the metal and is useless if body work fillers had been used (not my case but for them I can understand the issue). The detailing seen seems to be in the stone age where I live. If anyone knows a local detailer in Montreal with a PTG PM me plz.

I'm 99.9% confident a final polish won't be enough to cut through the clear,on the Jeep. I did tests on an original panel that was replaced and did over 30 passes without going trough the clear, but I was able to cut trough the clear on the edges of the panel very quickly (3-4 passes over the edge of the panel left only paint with no clear). I found the clear was very thick on my Jeep (exception of the aluminum hood).

With that said lets "assume" for my sake and yours that my clear is thick enough for polishing many more times. What would you recommend?! B)
 
Any finishing polish would work in your case. The major cutting is done and all that's left is to refine whats there. You could use the M205 as others suggested, blackfire SRC finishing polish is good, HD polish is another that many seem to like. You have a ton of options out there. Just pick one.

As for your LSP, one of my favorites is BFWD. I'm sure it will nicely compliment your paint. It leaves a very smooth, deep, wet look that you are looking for.
 
The Guz said:
I posted a photo here of my car which is silver that has ultimate wax topped with M26.
Click to expand...

Yeah I was admiring your car earlier today in that very post while researching. I notice most sliver cars don’t seem to pop as much as black red and blue...

You make a good point about sticking with the combo. My only concern is that the M205 won’t significantly improve the finish I got from the m101 very much or will take a long time to work (for fine-finish polishing). How many pads do you use to do a whole car with M205 and how long do you work it for fine-finishing (3-4 passes or just 2)?
 
On Silver, I'd go for Shiny and Bright LSP as opposed to deep and wet. If you're not afraid to spend less, Collinite 845 will look great on your truck and give you months of protection. A few days later, top the 845 with Finish Kare 425 QD. Pop!
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
While I agree 100% with the PTG suggestion it's too costly considering I've done most of the cutting I'm going to be doing (It's not like I do this professionally). Regardless I've gone to a couple local "professional" detailers in an attempt to borrow/rent a PTG and none of the detailers I went to use one. They explained the PTG only tells how far to the metal and is useless if body work fillers had been used (not my case but for them I can understand the issue). The detailing seen seems to be in the stone age where I live. If anyone knows a local detailer in Montreal with a PTG PM me plz.

I'm 99.9% confident a final polish won't be enough to cut through the clear,on the Jeep. I did tests on an original panel that was replaced and did over 30 passes without going trough the clear, but I was able to cut trough the clear on the edges of the panel very quickly (3-4 passes over the edge of the panel left only paint with no clear). I found the clear was very thick on my Jeep (exception of the aluminum hood).

With that said lets "assume" for my sake and yours that my clear is thick enough for polishing many more times. What would you recommend?! B)
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The CFM one on Amazon is $150. So not too badly priced.

I am a fan of Optimum Hyper Polish, M205, Sonax Nano something or another, and a couple others I've tried but can't remember the names of right now. Since you're using M101, you might as well stay in the family and use some M205 on a white pad for final polishing :)
 
WaxAddict said:
On Silver, I'd go for Shiny and Bright LSP as opposed to deep and wet. If you're not afraid to spend less, Collinite 845 will look great on your truck and give you months of protection. A few days later, top the 845 with Finish Kare 425 QD. Pop!
Click to expand...

Perfect I already have some 845, I could try and it would be less hassle than KAIO/KSG. I assume 845 would bond better to any possible oils the m205 leaves behind after IPA wipe too (compared to Klasse).
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
Perfect I already have some 845, I could try and it would be less hassle than KAIO/KSG. I assume 845 would bond better to any possible oils the m205 leaves behind after IPA wipe too (compared to Klasse).
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I have no issue with 845 sitting on residual Menzerna oils and Megs Ultimate Polish. Speaking of, don't overlook UP just because it's at WalMart. Very Good Polish.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. I'll pick up that 150$ PTG (I'm sure I'll want to polish again) and the BLACKFIRE Wet-Ice Over Fire Combo, and proceed with M205 tomorrow!

I'll use the 845 as a topper until the BFWD/BFMS arrives.


:autopia:
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. I'll pick up that 150$ PTG (I'm sure I'll want to polish again) and the BLACKFIRE Wet-Ice Over Fire Combo, and proceed with M205 tomorrow!

I'll use the 845 as a topper until the BFWD/BFMS arrives.


:autopia:
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The easy key to using a PTG is use it first in the door jamb and take 3-5 readings. Get the average. To be on the safe side, let us assume this average will be the amount of paint on the body panels without including clearcoat. Then take readings on the panels you want to check. Once again, take a bunch of readings and average them out. Take the second number and subract the first and you have an ESTIMATE of how much clearcoat you have left. Happy detailing :)
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
Yeah I was admiring your car earlier today in that very post while researching. I notice most sliver cars don’t seem to pop as much as black red and blue...

You make a good point about sticking with the combo. My only concern is that the M205 won’t significantly improve the finish I got from the m101 very much or will take a long time to work (for fine-finish polishing). How many pads do you use to do a whole car with M205 and how long do you work it for fine-finishing (3-4 passes or just 2)?
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Yeah and silver will never have that look. Mine has metallic flake in it so that is good. Try a test spot with M205 and see how it looks. I use around 2-4 pads when using M205 on a polishing pad when I am removing light to moderate defects. I usually go about 4 passes. M21 is a good sealant. It gives a candy coated look while ultimate wax darkens the paint. Although on my OEM hood in the garage, both didn't make that much of a difference. I like using M26 as it has the highest DOI (distinction of image).

4u2nvinmtl said:
Perfect I already have some 845, I could try and it would be less hassle than KAIO/KSG. I assume 845 would bond better to any possible oils the m205 leaves behind after IPA wipe too (compared to Klasse).
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You will have no issue applying right over M205. Not sure if you have ever read this.

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum
 
Simple answer IMO: HD Polish followed by FK1000P. Period. And yeah, I've used lots of M205 and have decades of experience with 845 too ;)
 
Q about the BF combo- does it darken paint the way BF AFPP does? That darkened the S8 so much that it looked like a different paint code! Hated it on that color, liked it on others.

WaxAddict- One caveat, I've had FK425 mess up fresh Collinite. Only happened once, but it was an absolute disaster as in "strip it off instead of delivering the car...". It messed things up so badly that I've never used FK425 on Collinite since, and I'd done it many times with no issues.

The Guz- I've had issues with some LSPs over top of M205 when I failed to completely strip the Trade Secret Oils. Never had any problems when the LSP was from Meguiar's though.
 
Accumulator said:
I've had issues with some LSPs over top of M205 when I failed to completely strip the Trade Secret Oils.
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I was planning to use an 20% IPA solution to strip the oils, but I read that it's not good enough any other over the counter recommendations (Simple Green diluted maybe?)

As I assume 845 is even harder to remove than the left over "trade secret oils" in the polish this will be important for when the BFWD/BDMS arrives.
 
4u2nvinmtl- I don't let Simple Green get anywhere near my vehicles.

IME the IPA simply doesn't strip the M205's oils effectively, complete exercise in frustration. I use TOL's Akyra Clean (formerly known as PrepWash). The same stuff would strip the 845 but might take some doing. I myself would probably just wash the vehicle with ValuGard's "A", but then I already have that on the shelf. There are probably lots of products on the market that'd work OK, just never tried 'em.
 
I've used 15% IPA but I went over the area a couple of time to strip the oils from M205. Again this was on the OEM hood that is not on the car to do some testing. I'm Accumulator on simple green. You could get some Meguiar's D114. It's been mentioned on the Megs forum that D114 at 6:1 can be used as an IPA replacement.

Accumulator said:
The Guz- I've had issues with some LSPs over top of M205 when I failed to completely strip the Trade Secret Oils. Never had any problems when the LSP was from Meguiar's though.
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This makes sense they are within the same family.
 
The Guz- Just a FWIW, the two vehicles where I simply could *NOT* strip the TSO with IPA were an e36 M3 and a GMC Yukon. They both had "sticky" paints that simply retained those oils like I couldn't believe...worse than porous single stage even.

And yeah, IME Meguiar's does a good job of making the intra-family compatibility thing work.
 
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