Everyone! Looks here! Amazing transformation of a mid 60's Mustang!

Yeah, that's nice. Oxidized, red single stage paint always make for the best "turnaround." However, IMO it's more impressive to see a heavily swirled clear coat brought back to near scratch-free perfection.
 
RAG said:
Yeah, that's nice. Oxidized, red single stage paint always make for the best "turnaround." However, IMO it's more impressive to see a heavily swirled clear coat brought back to near scratch-free perfection.
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He probably did both with as much dead paint as it seems he removed--plus the sun shots did look pretty swirl free. :)
 
WOW! Reminds me of the 90 SS Red Miata I did last year for the Autopia Detial Contest and also the 89 SS Red BMW I did as well. Oxidized SS Red does have the most "Dramatic" results but man what a DRAMATIC finish it turns out to be!



BTW, that Mustang had to be garaged or covered a majority of its life....being that old and not having areas of paint dissapearing completely, I have no other explanation. The guy did an awesome job on the detail and write up none-the-less!
 
Yeh really good job, I would bet the re sale value went up quite a bit then?



Normally for oxidisation I reach for DACP with a cutting pad or AIO and a polishing pad.
 
Now, it's not really the oxidation removal that impressed me, but the actual *level* of the paint astounds me.



He really cut deep into that paint and put himself at risk, but surely came out on top. If you look at the pictures in direct sun, you will see how smooth and level the paint is. Minimal etching and deep defects.



Now, if he isn't being paid by Meguiar's, he damn well should be :).
 
this is the reason why you would NEVER repaint a car like this unless you were doing a "body off". the results are simply AMAZING. :soscared: :bow :bigups old paint or not!!!!!!
 
Wow I'm impressed guys! I was tipped off by a friend that Scottwax was directing people to my 1965 Mustang detail. This detail follows on the heals of a 1968 Camaro that was also an amazing restoration---a previous detailer had botched the finish, burned through the paint in a few areas...



And nope I don't work for Meguiar's. I'm just an independent detailer, but I hold detailing clinics on the weekends at my house once a month for my MINI Cooper club teach my members how to detail and maintain their MINI's. I got the idea after attending several Meguiar's clinics over the years.



It's a great way to teach people, and I get to show a bunch of people what I can do, and helps with future referrals.



This wasn't original paint I was working with. It had been repainted and wasn't done very well. The current owner purchased this car a year ago in this condition and he was ready to sell it after getting a new paint job--but not any more of course.



As for cutting really deep, I have to disagree. With the Meguiar's way, you always use the least aggressive methods to get the job done right and that's what I did.



Before Pix of 1968 Camaro

75731771_e0dc15bde0.jpg


75731726_495d41016d.jpg




After

75732415_9f0e817dd5.jpg


76966056_2526883fd3.jpg


76966065_6c36c18de6.jpg




Full article and writeup here

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10293&perpage=10&pagenumber=2



As for wanting to see a clear coat restoration then check out this one



Black c230 Kompressor ruined by a body shop

71019192_878350b550_o.jpg


71019180_a3b3906133_o.jpg




Test spot done to prove I could restore finish

71019254_ccd76b8bbf_o.jpg


72081051_df2878fb06_o.jpg




Writeup here

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10094
 
OctaneGuy said:
As for cutting really deep, I have to disagree. With the Meguiar's way, you always use the least aggressive methods to get the job done right and that's what I did.
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I didn't mean that in a bad, "hack detailer" type of way. I meant it that you did, in fact, use the least aggressive product/process first and didn't just jump in with a hi-cut compound and wool pad and work it until you saw results. However, in the end:



-M80 x 3

-M83 x 1

-M80 x 2



is no "light cut", by any means. Irregardless, you saved the owner a repaint, you made him/her happy, and you all get to enjoy the results. (I know I'd be irked to have a car looking like it did before parked out in front of my...or any detailer's...home). Again, great comeback.





Cheers.
 
Heh heh thanks!



Actually, I used M83 with the Rotary with a yellow W-8006 pad first, but found it too gummy (on the trunk area), so I switched to M80 with the same pad. That worked well, but was still having a bear of a time removing the residue mainly from product buildup in the pad--so I switched to a cutting pad W-7006 and still M80 since the more dense foam absorbs less product. On the flat surfaces I just used the weight of the Makita, but on the borders of the taped off high points, I delicately applied the rotary with the yellow W-8006 pad and just tapped it against the surface removing tiny bits of oxidation at a time.



After removing the tape, I used a PC with the W-8006 pad and M80 to even out the now exposed paint areas--also very delicately, getting as close as I could to the edge without touching it.



I primarily used M80, and constantly checked the paint surface to make sure it wasn't getting too warm, especially on areas with the deepest defects.



So I'd say the process was more like:

M80 with Rotary x 1

M80 with PC x 4



I barely used M83 so I wouldn't count it as a pass. =)



Thanks for your feedback!



Richard







GSRstilez said:
I didn't mean that in a bad, "hack detailer" type of way. I meant it that you did, in fact, use the least aggressive product/process first and didn't just jump in with a hi-cut compound and wool pad and work it until you saw results. However, in the end:



-M80 x 3

-M83 x 1

-M80 x 2



is no "light cut", by any means. Irregardless, you saved the owner a repaint, you made him/her happy, and you all get to enjoy the results. (I know I'd be irked to have a car looking like it did before parked out in front of my...or any detailer's...home). Again, great comeback.





Cheers.
Click to expand...
 
OctaneGuy said:
Heh heh thanks!



Actually, I used M83 with the Rotary with a yellow W-8006 pad first, but found it too gummy (on the trunk area), so I switched to M80 with the same pad. That worked well, but was still having a bear of a time removing the residue mainly from product buildup in the pad--so I switched to a cutting pad W-7006 and still M80 since the more dense foam absorbs less product. On the flat surfaces I just used the weight of the Makita, but on the borders of the taped off high points, I delicately applied the rotary with the yellow W-8006 pad and just tapped it against the surface removing tiny bits of oxidation at a time.



After removing the tape, I used a PC with the W-8006 pad and M80 to even out the now exposed paint areas--also very delicately, getting as close as I could to the edge without touching it.



I primarily used M80, and constantly checked the paint surface to make sure it wasn't getting too warm, especially on areas with the deepest defects.



So I'd say the process was more like:

M80 with Rotary x 1

M80 with PC x 4



I barely used M83 so I wouldn't count it as a pass. =)



Thanks for your feedback!



Richard
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Richard,



Thank you for the clarification. I've buffed a 1970 Mach1 before and know what you are saying about the "high points". They could ring the bill up against you very quickly if you aren't careful.
 
Thanks PorkanBeans! I really need to spend more time here on Autopia! =)



GSRstilez,



Have a close look at this picture.



76966065_6c36c18de6.jpg


Look at the very bottom edge of the picture on the ridge at the center of the hood. See the "burn"? I didn't notice this when I was restoring the paint, and while I was ultra careful, I didn't tape off the highpoints on this car, and well, I thought I did this, and for 30 minutes I was cussing at myself. I even told the customer that I "thought" I did that and was truly sorry. He just shrugged his shoulders and didn't care.



Later that night I was going over my pictures and I found this picture which I took the first night I inspected the car before I worked on it. See that white spot in the same location?? I was vindicated!!! It was a preexisting defect that I didn't notice.

75731726_495d41016d.jpg




Anyhow, I now tape off all edges for safety--as I did with this Mustang. You can never be TOO careful!



Richard



GSRstilez said:
Richard,



Thank you for the clarification. I've buffed a 1970 Mach1 before and know what you are saying about the "high points". They could ring the bill up against you very quickly if you aren't careful.
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