Engine Detailing Advice - Suggestions please

puma1824

New member
Anyone have any suggestions on how to detail this engine bay? Are the metal parts too far gone or is there anything I can do to clean up? See pics below.

Any and all suggestions welcome.

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APC and steam first. Strip everything off then see whats left, then that will determine what you need to do next. (I suspect a little metal polishing most likely)
 
Got hope for the best here. I have seen worse.

1. Hit with a good degreaser or APC. Cover batt/alt
2. USE Sonus motor kote or megs hyper dressing 4:1
3. The sonus will be more work but worth it. The megs you can spray on while the engine is still wet. It will leave a nice even finish.

Yes, you may have to do some polishing on the bright work.
 
The level of corrosion is deceptive in those pictures. As explained a thorough wash with APC mixture, Tornador, detailing brush will give you a better look at the pads. A good aluminum polish will tell you if the pieces will be able to be salvaged (in my opinion they will need to be removed, sanded and powdercoated to meet your expectations). As for the rubbers, plastic etc... I personally would use CarPro PERL or would coat them using CQuartz DLUX.
 
puma1824- IMO the mindset here should be "realistic improvement". Unless you want to really go nuts (especially in the sense of expense), I'd aim for "clean and much better" and not pursue concours-quality perfection.

I do like some of my "fancy tools" for jobs like this, but I've also brought back engine compartments (and undercarriages...I'd do that too on that car but it's another topic for another thread...) that were worse than that with just the right products and a *LOT* of time.

As noted, clean off all the grime. Note that I'm a big fan of (safe) solvents as it's easy to control what's going on and there's no need for rinsing. Yeah, I use degreasers/Engine Cleaners/APCs/etc., but I still think the solvent approach is worth mentioning (ValuGard's New Car Prep comes to mind) if only for tight spots and areas where you want that good control over the proceedings.

Avoid regular Simple Green as it's toxic to bare aluminum.

Rusty fasteners (bolts/etc.) and fittings- I'd just replace them. For those that you won't/can't replace, try Wurth's Rost-Off instead of silicone-rich penetrating oils such as the otherwise great PB Blaster (which can limit your options later). Sometimes KRC7 (made for bathroom fixtures) can work great on corroded bits that have zinc/etc. finishes (bits with that "white corrosion").

Lightly rusted black metal bits can be rejuvenated surprisingly well with BlackFire's Gloss Enhancing Polish (I know, sounds nutty, but it works very well for me, even on nasty stuff like surface-rusted brake drums. Use multiple applications, top with something durable or at least BF's AFPP).

Worse rusted black metal bits- I use Autoglym's Bumper Care (another wacky approach that works incredibly well). It's also good for underhood plastics that are too far gone for a "trim sealant" approach (which I do prefer if it's feasible). Note that the Bumper Care and Wurth's Rubber Care are *ONLY* "slime approaches" that I use under the hood as other stuff a) doesn't work as well for me in this application and b) is more likely to retain dust/dirt, making future maintenance a chore. I the black plastic isn't too bad, try just cleaning it and then using a leaves-stuff-behind QD on it (I prefer ValuGard's Fast Finish for black plastics). Again, I like this better than the other usual approaches especially with regard to ongoing upkeep.

Also worth a mention- Griot's Rubber Prep, a [freakin'] miracle product IME.

Rusty painted metal- Instead of the popular POR15, I use Rust Bullet or KBS Coatings' Rust Seal or Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. I'd also want a can of Eastwood's Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust, an undercoating that penentrates/adheres to rusty metal and dries like a black paint.
 
While parts cleaning-type degreasers are great for removed parts that can be rinsed thoroughly, they may not be the best solution (no pun intended) for cleaning engine bays, as the rinse residue that runs down and sits in unseen nooks and crannies can wreak havoc on uncoated machined or cast aluminum, of which your BMW engine is profusely made of.
There are a plethora of aluminum polishing compounds and creams. I like Optimum Metal Polish (OMP) for rough or cast aluminum if polishing by hand. I have also used Megs M105 on rough aluminum to remove some of the white aluminum oxide that forms on exposed surfaces, followed by OMP. I've found that chamois-like microfiber clothes work best, but they get ripped up &abraded pretty bad.
Never tried Mother's Billet Aluminum Polish (which is different than their most-popular over-the-counter Mag Polish) or their Power Balls attachments for power drills. I suspect someone else may chime in on using those. I would think, that while expensive, it may achieve the results you want with (a lot) less effort and not having to remove parts from your engine.
 
It's going to make a mess, but the best way to clean those bare aluminum parts without removing them is with Brake Kleen and a stiff tooth brush. Don't think APC will make much of a difference. Those parts are bare aluminum (like some calipers) & Brake Kleen won't hurt it.

I would use BK to clean any engine sludge from oil leaks as well.


I wouldn't polish those bare aluminum parts either. To me they look like cast aluminum (expect please correct me if I'm wrong) and they aren't really supposed to be polished.


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