Engine Bay?!?!?

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Hello DC. Just curious to know how you all with experience cleaning engine bays go about your business. Honestly, I dont have much experience in this area, besides my personal vehicles. Any input is appreciated.:confused:
 
I rarely do engine bay work on client's vehicles. On our personal vehicles, I just try to stay on top of them and use products such as APC (anywhere from 4:1 - 10:1), PB's S&W, DP's Waterless Auto Wash and plenty of Scott's Blue Towels and old MF towels. Sometimes follow up with a QD on the painted surfaces, sometimes not. I really miss the "old days" when I would just drive down to the coin-op car wash, spray down the bay with an APC and hit it with the high pressure wand. I know some folks still use their pressure washers (successfully read good results), but with today's electronics I just stay away from that approach.

With dirtier bays, a collection of several soft brushes (ie. EZ Detail Brush) will come in handy.
 
I still use the power washer method at work because frankly on an old work truck thats never been cleaned, its the only way. However Im with MC 100% on staying away from it on clients cars. Ford motors (especially Triton V8s) HATE water and will rarely even start if they get wet. Many foreign cars are the same way. That being said, Chevys can almost drive into a river and still run fine. Theres no money to be made on engines if you clean them by hand, but it really does make a detail complete. The power washer method is most definatly the fastest and most effective route but its not worth the risk. The last thing you want is to tell a client their engine is drowned out and wont start.
 
On my personal vehicles I spray the engine bay down with water to wet everything. Then I soak it with APC...After it soaks for a little while I take a dedicated brush for engine cleaning and fill a bucket with carwash soap and clean everything that way. Then I spray it down with the hose again. I have no problem using water in the engine bays of my personal cars because they are not high end, and I am smart enough not to spray a jet of water at the alternator, starter, air filter, and other places you obviously shouldn't...However on customers cars I ask them if they feel comfortable with me using water in the engine bay, if they do, I do it my way, if they don't I spray it with APC and use a bunch of old microfibers, I call that the slow way.

STAY AWAY FROM using water in the engine bay of an Audi. Not a good idea I've heard plenty of stories about that
 
I have always cleaned & detailed engine bays and have yet to have ANY problem with a car not starting afterward. The key is to use minimal water and to clean as much by hand as is possible.

Audi, MB, BMW ........ Infiniti, Lexus ........ Domestics .......... use common sense and don't use heavy amounts of water on any single area of the engine for an extended amount of time.

If you're hesitant then you should definitely take precautions and cover any key components with plastic before beginning the process. ;)
 
You don't need to clean audi's


They have a self cleaning system right Ron???

IMAG0065.jpg
 
Here's a list of videos I consult every so often:

Link removed

Third down address cleaning the engine, Sixth covers dressing it. Check 'em out



I know Mike Phillips of Meguiar's/AutoGeek has vids like this too. Just google video examples. When viewing these videos, keep in mind of how you can improve upon these methods. Like the Adam's Headlamp restoration video. He struggles to get the inside corner of the headlight when all he had to do was open the hood and he'd have had full access without marring the hood. Just something to keep in mind when watching any videos; take it and make it your own
 
We clean engine compartments as well as undercarriages using our hot water p/w. Like several of you have said, common sense goes a long ways. Use minimal water. If it's a standard distributor type engine, locate the cap first and decide how hard it's gonna be to remove that cap to dry it out.
Also, don't be afraid to say no to the client. Either that or have them sign a release (which usually isn't very popular.)
 
I wet them down with a pressure washer using a light spray & move quickly. A trigger sprayer with a 50/50 mix of Amazing Roll Off & water is used on everything. Depending on how bad it is the ARO/H²O step may be repeated several times keeping everything wet. Give it 10-15 minutes to work, spray it off with the pressure washer and crank it up. I turn on the air conditioner to help build engine heat to dry it quickly. Once that's done spray it down with Stoner's More Shine or CD2 and move on to the next chore at hand.

Only twice since the 1970's have I had a no start and both had distributors. Pop off the cap, spray the inside of it liberally with WD-40, crank it up and go. I charged $45 for the engine cleaning, more if it was going to be major hand/brush work. I prefer back when you could actually see the engines unlike the plastic shrouded crap today.
 
Do any of you dress the engine bay after it's cleaned?

Have you tried?

Black Magic 2-in-1 Engine Shine
CD-2® Engine Detailer
Gunk Engine Brite - Engine Shine

What other products you have had good results with?
 
Do any of you dress the engine bay after it's cleaned?

Have you tried?

Black Magic 2-in-1 Engine Shine
CD-2® Engine Detailer
Gunk Engine Brite - Engine Shine

What other products you have had good results with?

After the initial rinse/scrub/rinse process is complete ......... we'll blow dry all the standing water from the entire engine bay. Once complete, we spray the engine bay with CG Bare Bones and once again blow the standing dressing out from the engine bay. At this point we'll go ahead and finish up the exterior surface work (if there is any). Afterward, the engine bay is touched up using a MF to clean the excess dressing from the engine bay.

An old pic, but one of the dirtier engines that I remember:

BEFORE:

DSC00267.jpg


AFTER:

DSC00274.jpg
DSC00275.jpg
 
Very nice Shade! The only engine bay work I get requests for are like ranch trucks that get really dusty. I nice engine like that ^ would be worth working on.
 
Very nice Shade! The only engine bay work I get requests for are like ranch trucks that get really dusty. I nice engine like that ^ would be worth working on.

If I remember correctly that MB was more than 10 years old with over 150k miles on the odometer. Now a days it seems more companies are opting for the cleaner look of black engine covers and not much else. Makes our job that much easier! ;)
 
Do any of you dress the engine bay after it's cleaned?

Have you tried?

Black Magic 2-in-1 Engine Shine
CD-2® Engine Detailer
Gunk Engine Brite - Engine Shine

What other products you have had good results with?

From the post just above yours:

"Once that's done spray it down with Stoner's More Shine or CD2 and move on to the next chore at hand".
 
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