This car belongs to Kris, a businessman who moved here (Montreal) not long ago from Chicago, IL. He bought this car second hand from a family member of his and had not had the time or chance to have it taken care of prior. He gave me a call and I went over to evaluate the car. We agreed on my Pearl Detail Package. He also took advantage of my pick-up and delivery service (free of charge!) because of time constraints. On to the write-up!
Products used:
Washing
Sunlight + Zep's Citrus Degreaser
AutoGlym Active Insect Remover
AutoGlym Intensive Tar Remover
AutoGlym Engine and Machine Cleaner
Various wash mitts, sponges
Stoner's Invisible Glass
Riccardo Blue Clay
Elegance Waterless Wash
Elegance Clay Lube
Elegance Wheel Cleaner
Iron-X
Various brushes
Correction
Meguiar's #105
Meguiar's #205
Optimum Metal Polish
Various Microfibers
Flex Rotary 3403
Porter Cable XP7424
Green Lake Country CCS pad
Black Lake Country CCS pad
Red Lake Country CCS pad
Protection
Black Fire Gloss Enhancing Polish
BlackFire Wet Diamond all Paint Sealant
Wolf's Body Wrap (wheels)
Elegance Engine Dressing
Aquapel
Rain-X
Black Wow
303 Aerospace Protectant
AutoGlym Leather Cleaner and Balm
Chemical Guys New Car Smell
Here's how the car arrived. In general, Audi's look good even when dirty, and this one is no different.
Here are some nasty scratches I will mostly remove a little later.
Another quite nasty scratch I will be mostly taking care of.
Some staining/streaking in the paint.
Notice the dried up plastic trim behin the mirror.
As always, I start with the engine shampoo, so if any degreaser or other chemicals get on the paint, I can go back and fix it later when I'm doing paint correction. Here's how it looked at the start.
I started by vacuuming all the leaves from the crevices.
Then I got to cleaning it with brushes and AutoGlym Engine and Machine Cleaner.
Once it was all dressed and pretty with Elegance Engine Dressing.
Time for the wheels. I started by using Iron-X to remove most of the brake dust caked into the wheels to make cleaning them easier.
Once the Iron-X was done it's job, I rinsed them and got to cleaning with Elegance Wheel Cleaner
After the wheels, it's finally time to start washing the bodywork. First step was to remove and bugs and bird droppings. Weapon of choice: AutoGlym Active Insect Remover.
Then on to a degreasing foam bath.
I took a brush to the gas door and all badges and crevices to make sure they were cleaned right.
Then it was time to decontaminate the paint. First up was Iron-X again.
Then the clay bar. The car was not bad and not great, so I did it in 3 sections, kneading the clay bar after each 1/3rd.
Now, let's take a closer look at the damages now that the car is clean. Here are the stains/streaks on the driver side fender.
Some shots of the swirling with a very INexpensive 1, 000, 000 candle powered Halogen light. (that's right, CANDLE POWER lol)
a better shot of the scratches on the passenger side quarter panel/wheel arch.
Close up of scratches with another really INexpensive LED light.
The it was time to measure the paint. I noticed that many panels were repainted on this car.
Once I noted where the thinner and repainted parts were, I went around and marked off any spots that would need a bit more elbow grease and attention with small pieces of masking tape.
I then brought the car inside and taped off a line down the middle of the trunk for my test spot.
Here's a 50/50 of that. Note that this is with 1 pass of #105 on green and 1 pass od #205 on black. The actual process was 2 passes of #105 on green, 1 pass of #205 on black via rotary and 1 pass of #205 on black with PC for final jeweling.
A closer look with that famous 1, 000, 000 candle power halogen light.
And with the LED light.
Once I found a process I was happy with, I taped off the rest of the car and got to work.
Before anything was done to the paint.
And after a single pass of the #105.
After 13 hours of polishing, I took the car outside and removed all the tape.
Here are a few shots of it after polishing. It hasn't been washed yet and there is no protection at this point.
Virtually spotless paint.
Note: All the white spots on the hood and bumper are rock chips.
Products used:
Washing
Sunlight + Zep's Citrus Degreaser
AutoGlym Active Insect Remover
AutoGlym Intensive Tar Remover
AutoGlym Engine and Machine Cleaner
Various wash mitts, sponges
Stoner's Invisible Glass
Riccardo Blue Clay
Elegance Waterless Wash
Elegance Clay Lube
Elegance Wheel Cleaner
Iron-X
Various brushes
Correction
Meguiar's #105
Meguiar's #205
Optimum Metal Polish
Various Microfibers
Flex Rotary 3403
Porter Cable XP7424
Green Lake Country CCS pad
Black Lake Country CCS pad
Red Lake Country CCS pad
Protection
Black Fire Gloss Enhancing Polish
BlackFire Wet Diamond all Paint Sealant
Wolf's Body Wrap (wheels)
Elegance Engine Dressing
Aquapel
Rain-X
Black Wow
303 Aerospace Protectant
AutoGlym Leather Cleaner and Balm
Chemical Guys New Car Smell
Here's how the car arrived. In general, Audi's look good even when dirty, and this one is no different.


Here are some nasty scratches I will mostly remove a little later.




Another quite nasty scratch I will be mostly taking care of.

Some staining/streaking in the paint.

Notice the dried up plastic trim behin the mirror.



As always, I start with the engine shampoo, so if any degreaser or other chemicals get on the paint, I can go back and fix it later when I'm doing paint correction. Here's how it looked at the start.


I started by vacuuming all the leaves from the crevices.

Then I got to cleaning it with brushes and AutoGlym Engine and Machine Cleaner.


Once it was all dressed and pretty with Elegance Engine Dressing.


Time for the wheels. I started by using Iron-X to remove most of the brake dust caked into the wheels to make cleaning them easier.


Once the Iron-X was done it's job, I rinsed them and got to cleaning with Elegance Wheel Cleaner


After the wheels, it's finally time to start washing the bodywork. First step was to remove and bugs and bird droppings. Weapon of choice: AutoGlym Active Insect Remover.

Then on to a degreasing foam bath.

I took a brush to the gas door and all badges and crevices to make sure they were cleaned right.

Then it was time to decontaminate the paint. First up was Iron-X again.

Then the clay bar. The car was not bad and not great, so I did it in 3 sections, kneading the clay bar after each 1/3rd.



Now, let's take a closer look at the damages now that the car is clean. Here are the stains/streaks on the driver side fender.


Some shots of the swirling with a very INexpensive 1, 000, 000 candle powered Halogen light. (that's right, CANDLE POWER lol)

a better shot of the scratches on the passenger side quarter panel/wheel arch.

Close up of scratches with another really INexpensive LED light.

The it was time to measure the paint. I noticed that many panels were repainted on this car.





Once I noted where the thinner and repainted parts were, I went around and marked off any spots that would need a bit more elbow grease and attention with small pieces of masking tape.





I then brought the car inside and taped off a line down the middle of the trunk for my test spot.

Here's a 50/50 of that. Note that this is with 1 pass of #105 on green and 1 pass od #205 on black. The actual process was 2 passes of #105 on green, 1 pass of #205 on black via rotary and 1 pass of #205 on black with PC for final jeweling.

A closer look with that famous 1, 000, 000 candle power halogen light.

And with the LED light.

Once I found a process I was happy with, I taped off the rest of the car and got to work.



Before anything was done to the paint.

And after a single pass of the #105.

After 13 hours of polishing, I took the car outside and removed all the tape.

Here are a few shots of it after polishing. It hasn't been washed yet and there is no protection at this point.

Virtually spotless paint.

Note: All the white spots on the hood and bumper are rock chips.

